Think and Drink Pink

Delays and a percentage of wines that literally cooked inside the containers as they sat for weeks on the dock were expected outcomes, but the real casualty of the summer of '05 was the rebirth of rosé in B.C.

Vancouver is a North American trendsetter when it comes to wine and by all accounts, we were ready to drink pink at least until most of the new stock was waylaid on the docks. The strike snuffed out any plans for a rosé revival in 2005 but it as it turned out it was only postponed.

Fast forward to July 2006 and rosé is all the rage in the UK and America and this time B.C. wine stores are overflowing with rosé, when we need it, at the height of summer. In fact, there is so much buzz about pink wine it is poised to become the unofficial drink of the year. But why now?

I have a theory and it has nothing to do with technology or better winemaking. Nor does it point to any marketing gimmicks. I believe consumers are embracing rosé because they are as confident as ever about wine and after years of exploring different grapes and wine styles, rosé is just another style whose time has come.

Naturally, we approach it with more knowledge and interest than ever before so it has to taste better to hold our interest. Just being pink is no longer good enough but in the case of rosé it seems it really is better than ever. All we need do is open our minds and our palates.

With temperatures soaring across the province and patios packed, pink wine not only looks right, it tastes right. Well, at least until the rains arrive, but then that is at least two months away.  

There are so many rosés to choose from I will report on another group next weekend and explore the myriad food options you can enjoy with pink wine. For now sit back on the patio, enjoy the heat, and think and drink, pink.

The Little Penguin White Shiraz 2005 is the classic pink patio sipper crammed full of candied apple and cherry fruit aromas and flavours. Be sure to serve this fun, slightly sweet, aperitif-style sipper well chilled.

La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rosé 2005 is all southern France boasting a mix of grenache, shiraz, mourvèdre and cinsault. The colour is an attractive, pale raspberry, the nose a mix of strawberry, mineral, citrus and rhubarb. The style is soft and easy-sipping with earthy, mineral, floral, raspberry and sour cherry flavours. Good balance if a bit lean, best with food on the patio.

The best B.C. rosé I've tasted this year is the Lang Vineyards Blanc de Noir 2005, a rather curious blend of lemberger and pinot noir that delivers the key rosé components. Fruit and freshness. Look for a floral, mineral, cherry, lemon scented nose with more similar flavours and a fresh berry, spicy, minty, grapefruit flavoured finish. It's fresh and zippy with solid fruit. Well done.

The Torres De Casta Rose 2005, a blend of garnacha and cariñena may be the best rosé in the market for the money. Now available in screwcap it has a light cherry colour and a wonderful clean, fresh, mineral nose flecked with cherry, black raspberry and almond, aromas. Ripe, crisp and balanced it has the perfect touch of sweetness in its cherry, raspberry, floral flavours. There is fine intensity of flavour and finesse. The Torres folks suggest you drink it with recipes that use tomato or tomato sauce, including pasta.

The great thing about screwcaps is they tend to keep last year's model as fresh as it was a year ago while we wait for the vintage to turn over. Devil's Lair Fifth Leg Rose 2004 hails from Margaret River, Western Australia. This is a great looking pink wine with the requisite fresh nose of red fruit and flowers. Similar floral fruit flavours with good acidity and more fresh plum fruit in the finish. It's the ultimate summer quaffer. Sip or serve with grilled pork or chicken or solo all night long.

Don't let the Nekeas name fool you, Vega Sindoa Rosé 2004/5 is not a Greek wine, not that there is anything wrong with that. What this garnacha-cabernet blend is a spicy almond earthy raspberry fruit flavoured pink with a peppery finish. You can have it for dinner but it remains perfect for that alfresco lunch.

Pink Picks

LITTLE PENGUIN WHITE SHIRAZ 2005, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA
Price: $12.86
UPC: 012354010253
Score: 85/100
Remarks: Fun, sweeter-style summer sipper.

LA VIEILLE FERME COTES DU VENTOUX ROSE 2005, SOUTHERN RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE
Price: $13.87
UPC: 0631470000124
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Dry, round, earthy, mineral, floral, raspberry flavours.

LANG VINEYARDS BLANC DE NOIR 2005, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Price: $13.90, VQA stores and private wine shops
UPC: 626990020745
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Fresh and zippy with solid fruit. Well done.

TORRES DE CASTA ROSE 2005, CATALUNYA, SPAIN
Price: $12.86
UPC: 08410113002020
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Best value rose in the market this summer.

DEVIL'S LAIR FIFTH LEG ROSE MERLOT 2004/05, MARGARET RIVER, WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Price: $19.99
UPC: 9310194452143
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Pretty in pink under screwcap.

VEGA SINDOA ROSE 2004/05, NAVARRA SPAIN
Price: $12.77
UPC: 617835005218
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Big enough for dinner, but perfect for an alfresco lunch.