The Sonomans Go Roamin

At first glance the fundraiser looks a lot like other stand-up, walkabout wine tastings until you consider the product. You won't find any Two-buck Chuck, or inexpensive big brand wines with Sonoma County on the label. Nor will you find any animal, bird or fish brands.

With 14 appellations, 25 wineries and more than 100 wines in the room, the annual Sonoma County taste-off is a blueprint for excellence and, thanks to an improving exchange rate, Sonoma County premium labels are becoming a bit more affordable.

New this year to the tasting room is a Zin-Sational tasting station. Nick Frey, executive director of the Sonoma County Grape Growers Association will man the booth and will pour several zinfandels side-by-side for easy comparison.

At press time the zinfandels expected to be on offer included: Barefoot Cellars, Dry Creek Reserve, Chateau Felice Estate Reserve, Chalk Hill, E&J Gallo Frei Ranch, De Loach, Hanna, St. Francis Old Vines, Seghesio Sonoma County and Seghesio Old Vine Zinfandel.

The event, running from 7 to 9:30 p.m., will also feature a silent auction in support of Arts Umbrella. Some of the items to be bid upon include: theatre tickets, weekend getaways, dinner and wine packages and other unique Sonoma County wine lots.

Tickets to Sonoma Wine Affair are $50 each and may be purchased by calling Arts Umbrella at 604-681-5268, ext. 223 or over the internet at www.artsumbrella.com.

For those unable to attend the tasting, today's picks feature Sonoma labels you will find in government specialty wine shops and private wine stores.

Nearly 25 years after the North American sparkling wine rush began, Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut Pinot Noir (non-vintage) stands above most other California bubble. It is the workhorse label of Gloria Ferrer but it's no piker. It's a sophisticated blend of 87 per cent pinot noir and 13 per cent chardonnay made from 20 base wines, each fermented in a stainless steel tank.

Look for crisp, tangy, pear fruit flavours with just a hint of almonds in the background. There's none of the austerity that can plague so many Old World sparklers and there's none of the sweet fruit flavours that are the bane of New World bubble. It doesn't get much better than this for the price -- delicious, stylish and fun to drink. Don't wait for a birthday.

It's reassuring to reach for a wine that is consistently well made and that's the story of the Sebastiani Chardonnay 2002. It has a peasant creamy lees (bread dough) and baked apple nose streaked with melon and peach. On the palate it is super smooth and round with honey/butter citrus and spicy salty lees notes and a smoky apple finish. This is solid Sonoma chardonnay at an affordable price and perfect for restaurant wine lists.

The Rancho Zabaco Dancing Bull Zinfandel 2002 opens with an attractive spicy, smoky, peppery, blackberry nose. The entry is soft and slightly sweet but with fresh acidity. The flavours are a mix of smoky, spicy, blackberry/black plum fruit flavours and licorice. The finish is warm with noticeable acidity -- seemingly styled after Australian shiraz.

Canned peach, melon, toasty butter aromas with light mineral and floral components mark the nose of the Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2001. It has a dry, round, fresh palate with lots of buttery, smoky lees, peach and melon flavours. It's fresh but not quite as zippy as the normal Sonoma style. We like the new low price a lot.

Chateau St. Jean is underrated for its reds as evidenced by this tasty Cabernet Sauvignon 2001. Look for an attractive blackberry, garrigue, and cedar scented nose mixed with a savoury peppery, chocolate, cassis and vanilla flavours. It's still young and firm and a bit alcoholic but with plenty of flavour and elegance. This is impressive, stylish Sonoma red wine.

When someone offers you a taste of Russian River pinot noir say yes and hope it is the Marimar Torres Pinot Noir 2000 from the Don Miguel Vineyard. From its dark plum/cherry fruit nose to its peppery, spicy, smoky licorice flavours this is big time Sonoma pinot. The finish is long and streaked with black cherry, vanilla and a candied orange peel. Delicious; bring on the duck confit.

Weekend Wine Tasting: Sonoma County, California

Wine   Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut Pinot Noir - Chardonnay N/V

Price   $29.95

UPC    33293111009

Score  89/100

Remarks        It doesn't get much better than this for the price.

Wine   Sebastiani Chardonnay 2002

Price   $22.85

UPC    088232002627

Score  88/100

Remarks        Pleasant baked apple nose; honey/butter citrus flavours.

Wine   Rancho Zabaco Dancing Bull Zinfandel 2002

Price   $14.99

UPC    085000010181

Score  86/100

Remarks        Good old fashion sipping Zin for the barbecue.

Wine   Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2001

Price   $24.99

UPC    087512913257

Score  87/100

Remarks        Canned peach and buttery melon fruit. Good value.

Wine   Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

Price   $49.99*

UPC    089819056606

Score  91/100

Remarks        Big spicy red with chocolate and blackberry fruit.

Wine   Marimar Torres Pinot Noir Don Miguel Vineyard 2000, Russian River Valley

Price   $58.95

UPC    400009852189

Score  92/100

Remarks        Supple, concentrated unctuous pinot.

* coming to Mark Anthony Wine Marts in early October