The Rise of Syrah

Certainly, it is the world's fastest growing grape variety in terms of new plantings.

Some wine lovers will argue that syrah was not all that obscure to begin with, but not many consumers are familiar with the wines of Hermitage or Cote Rôtie from France's Rhone Valley, and even fewer know that the grape behind its great names is syrah.

It's really nobody's fault. Production in the northern Rhone is small by modern-day standards and distribution is tight. Most of the wine is sold quickly and to the same distributors it has been shipped to for decades.

On the other hand, shiraz or syrah, the varietal wine, is a completely different story.

Once confined to Australia you can now encounter the shiraz/syrah phenomenon worldwide and each time we try a new one we are surprised by the quality - whether from Argentina, Washington, South Africa, Chile or even right here in Canada.

So, what should we call it? Syrah or shiraz?

Most agree it is the same grape, although some argue there is clonal variation. Some theorize the grape originated in the Persian city of Shiraz. Others suggest an origin near the city of Syracuse in eastern Sicily - where a native grape called nero d'avola can be strikingly similar in the glass.

Europe, led by the grape's French homeland, is solidly in the "syrah" camp when it comes to varietal labelling, particularly in the huge Vins de Pays d'Oc appellation of Southern France. Australia however, which is most responsible for the grape's global deluge, has always called it shiraz. They are the two poles of the debate.

South America, with its strong roots back to Europe, is leaning toward syrah. South Africa on the other hand, which is extremely competitive with Australia on the sports pitch and off, is solidly shiraz country. New Zealand is heading in both directions.

In North America, Washington State has staked out syrah. At first California's pioneers did too, but now some producers are waffling. How California chooses to solve its identity crisis is actually an important question because a whole new wave of consumer enthusiasm could wreck on the shoals of confusion.

My sense is that many new low-priced, marketing-driven brands are going the shiraz route to capitalize on Australia's success. On the other hand, the syrah producers tend to aim at the premium end and are more likely modelled on a French model.

Even British Columbia, which has made less than a handful of syrah's to date, is already on the teeter-totter. Nichol Vineyard has made syrah since 1994, while 35

No matter what the grape is named it's what's in the bottle that counts. When it comes to syrah or shiraz, its spicy, rich fruit flavours and soft rounded tannins give it wide consumer appeal. Some might suggest the round rich nature of this wine allows it to offer everything most merlot promises, but often fails to deliver.

In its broadest context New World shiraz/syrah offers intense flavours of blackberries, black currants and plums. Mix that with smoky bacon, black pepper and mocha/ coffee/vanilla flavours from barrels and you have a wine few consumers can resist.

One vague difference between syrah and shiraz may actually be in type of oak used. French syrah of course was always aged in French oak, with its tendency to impart more subtle spice and vanillin notes.

Aussie shiraz on the other hand is aged largely in more boisterous American oak (with some notable exceptions such as Penfolds RWT), barrels that neatly match the more obvious fruit and ripeness of Down Under reds.

Then again, many now employ a blend of barrel types, with varying levels of toast or char, which will affect perceptions of smokiness. Highly toasted barrels often lend Aussie shiraz a clove-like spiciness as well.

Climate is another variable. Cooler sources impart the more high-toned peppery, herbal almost briny notes so prevalent in the northern Rhone, which actually straddles continental and Mediterranean climates.

Warmer climes provide wonderfully ripe, saturated fruit flavours while holding the smoky, spicy notes. Then too some can be meaty or gamy, or minty if from Australia or other places where eucalyptus trees grow.

Regardless, even an inexpensive version can be fun to drink and the "fun factor" is one important reason for syrah's success. Add to that an increasingly bold and adventurous wine consumer, red wine's popularity due to health benefits, and the stage is set for a major movement that could easily make the merlot fad a blip on the graph.

Here are my picks of the best shiraz/syrah for the money in B.C.

492686 Syrah - Vina Patagonia Trivento $8.94

394916 Syrah - Lurton Domaine des Salices $11.95

568055 Syrah - Concha Y Toro 2000 Casillero Del Diablo $12.95

576892 Syrah - Caliterra 1999 $12.95

627851 Syrah - Robert Mondavi Woodridge 1999 $12.95

713305 Syrah - Finca Flichman 1998 $12.95

605501 Shiraz - Talus 2000 $12.98

486001 Syrah -  Chateau la Bastide - Durand 1998 $13.90 

631820 Shiraz - Tatachilla 2001 Breakneck Creek $14.95

602383 Syrah - Tarapaca Reserva 1999 $14.95

457093 Shiraz - Tyrrells 1999 $15.95

596684 Shiraz - Bellingham 2001 $15.95

074163 Shiraz - Black Opal 1999 $16.95

598128 Shiraz - Barossa Valley 2000 $16.95

616987 Syrah - Valdivieso Barrel Selection 2000

611442 Shiraz - Peter Lehmann Weighbridge 2000 $16.99

314146 Shiraz - E & C McLaren Vale 1999 $17.99

590901 Shiraz - Durbanville Hills 2000 $18.95

561142 Shiraz - K.W.V. Cathedral Cellars 96/97 $18.95

625574 Shiraz - Yangarra Park 2001 $18.95

536383 Shiraz - Moculta Barossa Valley 2000 $19.95

433060 Shiraz - Wynns Coonawarra Estate 2000 $19.95

608695 Shiraz - Buckley's 2000 $19.95

729657 Shiraz - St. Hallett Faith 1999 $20.90

576595 Shiraz - Maglieri Mildara Blass 1999 $20.95

572875 Shiraz - Peter Lehmann Barossa 2000 $22.99

506030 Shiraz - Seven Peaks 2000 $23.95

524926 Shiraz - Yalumba Barossa 1998 $23.95

506931 Shiraz - d'Arenberg Footbolt Old Vine 1999 $23.95

611210 Shiraz - Penfolds Thomas Hyland 2000 $23.95

575704 Shiraz - Hardy Tintara 1999 $23.99

575092 Shiraz - Mildara Blass Greg Norman 1999 $26.95

448241 Shiraz - Leasingham Bin 61 1999 $26.99

567164 Shiraz - Cimicky & Son Daylight Chamber 1998 $27.15

607093 Shiraz - Pirramimma 1999 $27.95

348540 Shiraz - Wolf Premium Selection 2000 $27.95

559872 Shiraz - Clos du Bois 1998 Alexander Valley Reserve $28.95

729798 Shiraz - St. Hallett Blackwell 1998 $28.95

564450 Shiraz - Langmeil Barossa Valley 1998 $29.95

599530 Syrah - Steele Shooting Star 1999 $29.95

468637 Shiraz - Penfolds Bin 138 Old Vine 1999 $30.00

217042 Shiraz - Penfolds Bin 128 1999 $30.00

603548 Syrah - Montes Alpha 2000 $31.45

608901 Shiraz - Punters Corner 1999 $33.95

528349 Shiraz - Ebenezer Barossa Valley 1999 $39.95

510628 Shiraz - Chateau Reynella 2000 $39.99

626119 Shiraz - Voss Vineyards 1999 $40.00

729863 Shiraz - St. Hallett Old Block 1998 $44.95

510875 Shiraz - St. Henri 1998 $45.00

614107 Shiraz - Haselgrove H Premium Reserve 1999 $47.99

567149 Shiraz - Cimicky & Son Signature 1999 $49.95

599431 Shiraz - d'Arenberg The Dead Arm 1999 $52.95

457986 Shiraz - Leasingham Classic Clare 19 $59.99

731869 Shiraz - Magill Estate 1998 $66.00

463331 Shiraz - Wynns Michael Vineyard 1998 $67.00

388918 Syrah - Rosemount Estate Balmoral 1998 $69.00

465930 Shiraz - E & E Black Pepper Barossa Valley 1998 $89.95

461368 Shiraz - Hardy Eileen 1998 $89.99

564278 Shiraz - Penfolds Barossa Valley RWT 1999 $100.00