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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival is in full motion as it prepares for year No.

The Reign in Spain Falls Mainly...

33. The wines of Spain will be the country theme while a focus on fortified wines from around the world should help keep 2011 at least as entertaining as the Argentina/ New Zealand showdown that was so well received last year.

 

The festival does not get underway until March 28, but early tickets will be on sale Nov. 30 at the newly revamped www.playhousewinefest.com.

 

Spain produces an astounding amount of wine when you consider that chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and sauvignon blanc do not play a major role in Spanish winemaking. We do know 33 wineries will be in Vancouver, which is impressive given the current count of wines listed from Spain in B.C. Liquor Stores is a miserly 160. One can always hope for a few new wines to appear as a result of the 2011 Playhouse focus.

 

Like Chile, another 50 to 100 listings would be welcome by curious wine drinkers. By the way, you don't get new listings because they sound good. You get them if the wine sells. Ultimately it requires a leap of faith to strike out and choose something different in store aisles. If you start now, Spain could be rewarded well before the festival.

 

There is nothing easy about understanding Spanish wine because the names are, well Spanish, but shouldn't that be the attraction? Naturally low yields and complex soils are the ticket. All you need is a little curiosity. Heading your way in March are a number of indigenous varietals that may twist your tongue, but they will also delight your palate. Albarino, carinena, garnacha, macabeo, mencia, monastrell, palomino, Pedro Ximenez, tempranillo, verdejo and viura are just a few of the grapes coming from some familiar and maybe not-so-familiar regions of Spain.

 

The well-known wines of Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Jerez will jostle with Priorato, Rueda, Bierzo, Toro, Jumilla and more from the new face of Iberia. Spain is a country with a rich culture of food, wine and music and it should be fun to revel in its latest offerings come March. In the meantime I've selected some very interesting labels to pique your interest in the run-up to the festival. Think of it as a prelude to what is going to be a fun week.

 

If you are a fan of Cava, you will love the Codorníu Reserva Raventos Brut, a chardonnay, xarel-lo, macabeo blend from Penedès. The nose is aromatic with honey and spiced apple notes and a customary nutty undercurrent. We love the refined mousse character in the mouth not normally present at this price level and all the floral, mineral, citrus, buttery, melon, peach flavours. A super sparkler with amazing versatility. Serve solo, with appetizers or during and after the meal. Great value, too. Load up.

 

The new Telmo Rodriguez Basa Rueda Blanco 2009 is a delicious bottle of white wine. Floral, passion fruit, grapefruit, melon, lime, lees, slate and jalapeno aromas attract you to its fresh, crisp, juicy palate and creamy textures. More juicy mineral, gooseberry, passion fruit and crunchy green apple flavours follow with just a hint of jalapeno. Ready to drink and now -- wait for it -- finished under screw cap. Restaurants, please load up.

 

Here you go: super-cheap and tasty, and there are some 1,500 bottles in the province. Castaño La Casona Monastrell 2007 is soft and supple with a pinch of rustic tannins. Chocolate, peppery, dried herbs, black cherry, fig and licorice root flavours impress for the price. Good fruit and intensity make this a great value. The monastrell vines are dry farmed (no irrigation, which keeps yields naturally low) and they are 40 to 60 years old. All for $9.50. Back up the truck for the holidays.

 

Alvaro Palacios is the man behind the remarkable Bierzo red Pétalos 2007, made from 100 per cent mencia. Rich and swimming in dense black blueberry-like fruit, it has a wonderful underbelly of minerality and a strong aromatic floral character. The grapes are grown employing biodynamic viticulture. An exotic riveting red with bits of violets, spice, incense. A modern wine from old vines and even older methods.

 

All hail Priorat and this spicy, floral, curry, black peppery, licorice-scented red. The Formiga de Vellut 2008 is a mix of garnacha, samsó and syrah all grown organically. I love the dry, supple palate and its smoky, peppery, black cherry jam and meaty, licorice and cedar flavours. It has fine intensity and balance throughout despite a bit of heat on the finish. A terrific effort for current drinking with lamb stew. Solid value and a feather in the cap for organically grown grapes.

 

Williams & Humbert Don Guido Pedro Ximenez Solera Especial N/V is aged 20 years in oak barrels. That should get your attention. If not, the open pungent walnut, floral, tobacco, raisin nose will. The palate is unctuous; it is not overly heavy but sweet with fine acidity and a sweet raisiny, buttery, walnut, coffee, toffee, orange peel finish. Fun but complex. Serve for dessert with cheese, pecan pie or solo.

 


Codorníu Reserva Raventos Brut, Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, Penedès, Spain

Price: $19

UPC: 08410013990571

Score: 89/100

Remarks: If you are a fan of Cava, load up. Great value, too.

 

Telmo Rodriguez Basa Rueda Blanco 2009, Castilla-Leon, Spain

Price: $19

UPC: 08420759900017

Score: 90/100

Remarks: What a delicious bottle of white wine.

 

Castaño La Casona Monastrell 2007, Yecla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain

Price: $9.50

UPC: 008422443002519

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Super-cheap and tasty from dryfarmed, 40-to 60-year-old vines.

 

Pétalos 2007, Bierzo, Castilla-Leon, Spain

Price $33.00

UPC 008437004566270

Score 91/100

Remarks              A modern wine from old vines and even older methods.

 

Formiga de Vellut (Organic) Garnacha-Samso-Syrah 2008, Priorato, Catalunya, Spain

Price: $30

UPC: 008437006680042

Score: 91/100

Remarks: All hail Priorat and this spicy, floral, curry, licorice-scented red.

 

Williams & Humbert Don Guido Pedro Ximenez Solera Especial N/V, Jerez, Spain

Price: $26

UPC: 84100280046201

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Aged 20 years in oak barrels. Walnut, toffee, orange peel flavours.

 

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.