George Piper

Now, after years of research, travel and testing to learn as much as possible about food, the savvy, upscale chain has turned its attention to wine. Its latest user-friendly, low-markup wine list is going to turn heads. It hasn't been an overnight change, according to purchasing director George Piper, who is responsible for just about everything you encounter at Earls, but rather an evolution that began in the early '90s when he first suggested the company upgrade its wine program.

 Back then, it was Earls' house wine that Piper focused on, and strategic deals were made with both international and domestic producers to bottle well-known, inexpensive reds and whites under the playful "Rascal of the Vineyard" label. Piper knew that if he could offer high-quality, low-cost wine and make ordering it less intimidating (hence the Rascal label), Earls would be well on its way to becoming a wine-friendly restaurant, and its Lower Mainland clientele as sophisticated as the average vin de table-swilling French citizen.

He hit the mark.

Now, after several years of tinkering with the list, Piper is aiming even higher, with the stated goal of making "Earls the best wine destination in the casual restaurant market." "When diners are contemplating where to dine, and wine is in the equation, we want Earls' wine-friendly menu and reputation for incredible wine value to identify us as the irresistible choice," Piper says. Unlike many expensive, high-end lists built to win competitions, Earls' latest plays directly to the needs of its customers with its casual format, streamlined selections and low-markup pricing.

There are many things to like about the list, beginning with its size. It all fits on one page. "We want to keep it simple for guests," says Piper, "so they don't agonize over what to order." The short list means less inventory, and that lowers the likelihood of a constant irritation diners face: making a choice only to find a popular wine is out of stock. The new list has two parts. The first is a one-price section where all bottles are $22.95, or for an amazingly low $6.95 you can order any wine by the glass. (Inert gas is pumped into bottles after they're opened to ensure wines remain fresh.) The second part of the list is a reserve section boasting some of the best wine prices I've seen anywhere in North America. I like the one-price list because it removes the pressure that cost sometimes plays in ordering wine -- with a single price, you can never look cheap. Keen winos who know their prices will revel in paying $22.95 for Fetzer Zinfandel that sells for $16.45 in government stores -- quite a change from the usual restaurant markup of 100 per cent that makes the California red around $33 elsewhere.

Piper assembled the impressive reserve list by asking those wineries lucky enough to be included on the one-price list to sharpen their pencils and come up with a special bottling or label of one of their best known wines to add some extra gloss to Earls' program. Talk about glitz -- Earls now offers the savvy drinker some astounding values. Byron Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay from California is $37 at Earls, barely $6 over its liquor store price. Among Australian picks, the Leasingham Clare Classic sells for $52 versus its $45.95 tag in retail wine shops. Another 18 reserve selections offer similar value.

Just as impressive are the new wine glasses available to anyone ordering any bottle from either part of the list. That's right: you don't have to order a special wine to be treated to an oversized, well-shaped glass that allows you to further enjoy your selection as you swirl and sip. Wines are also categorized by style to make selection even easier. Headings range from dry and light to medium-bodied and fruity, or in the case of the big reds, robust, medium- to full-bodied and barrel-aged.

Piper also plans to release an Earls Food and Wine Wheel, a small reference tool "to provide a fun and interactive way for guests to experience some great wine and food pairings." Then there are the neck tags. How many times have you had a great bottle of wine in a restaurant and failed to remember its name when you went looking for it in a wine shop? Earls found a solution. Piper says the restaurants "will introduce neck tags on all bottles brought to the table that provide the story of the wine, tasting notes and detail any awards or media accolades given the wines, and the customer can take the tag home to jog his or her memory."

Earls' new wine list will be implemented in each of its 48 outlets across western Canada by early spring. I can't say enough good things about these ideas. This list has the potential to do as much for wine in the casual dining setting as the Playhouse Festival has done for its appreciation in high-end establishments. It's another thread in the rich fabric of B.C.'s wine culture.