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Since the inception of VQA in 1989, B.C.
wine bottles have been marked with precious little geographic information. A group effort led by the wineries of the day and government determined five, broad designated viticultural regions that could appear on VQA-approved wine labels; those broad, originally designated areas are the Okanagan Valley, Similkameen Valley, Fraser Valley, Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands.
The British Columbia Wine Institute has in recent years mentioned emerging regions in its literature, noting activity in Shuswap, North Okanagan, Thompson Nicola and West Kootenays -- and there will be more -- but the game is on, with an initiative by Oliver wineries located on the Golden Mile Bench (wine growing area) to become the first, official sub-DVA.
A handful of south Okanagan wineries, after working diligently for five years, has recently submitted to the B.C. Wine Authority what is the first proposal to create the Okanagan Valley's first sub-appellation.There will be nothing easy about this application, beginning with objections from those wineries that are not located within the delineated borders as set by the application.The wineries involved claim "an in-depth scientific analysis by scientists from Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, Pacific Agri-Food Research Centre-Summerland has shown the area has a combination of landform, landscape position, mesoclimate, air drainage and soil materials that make it distinct within the Okanagan Valley, contributing to the production of unique wines."
"After much discussion, debate and an in-depth study of the region's terroir by soil scientist Scott Smith and research scientist in viticulture and plant physiology Pat Bowen, both at AAFC-PARC Summerland, the boundaries were decided. Wine consultant, Rhys Pender of Wine Plus+ helped compile the proposal.
The sub-division must happen for many reasons, not the least of which is the rising cost of B.C. wine bearing almost useless geographic designator such as Okanagan Valley, or even Vancouver Island. Paying $40 for a wine that could contain fruit from Vernon to Osoyoos was tolerable in the 1990s but now it is insulting to most fine wine buyers.
The Okanagan Valley DVA is responsible for about 80 per cent of all British Columbia's vineyard area and it is time we carved the 150-km stretch into more meaningful and digestible bits that speak to the many different mesoclimates and terroirs that mark the valley.
It would appear the Golden Mile Bench -- at least a much smaller area as defined by the scientists than rather than the rambling vineyard and orchard land that runs from the southern edge of Oliver to the northern edges of Osoyoos -- will be the first to push for change.
According to the wineries involved, "The proposal was submitted to the B.C. Wine Authority on May 20. The BCWA will conduct consultations within the region and a vote by ballot among the relevant stakeholders within the proposed region's boundaries. Once the due diligence has been completed and assuming the BCWA determines all requirements have been met, it will then submit the proposal to the minister of agriculture for approval."
Bets are the process will take from three to five years and the conversations will no doubt be heated. Some producers have vineyards both in and out of the proposed DVA and some vineyards will be cut in half by the boundaries. The proposal will also allow any winery that buys grapes from within the proposed DVA to use the Golden Mile Bench DVA on its label.
I support the process and hope for a speedy outcome. Nothing is as important as high quality wine production to ensure the future of B.C. wine.
Price $11 | Score 86/100
UPC: 07790703007606
The attack is fresh and round, the palate creamy with light butter, lees, peach, pear skin and baked apple flavours. Clean, easy-sipping style that will go well with food. Solid value with none of the overt butter or sweetness found in many wines at this price. Terrific value.
Lagaria Pinot Grigio 2013, Veneto, Italy
Price $17 | Score 86/100
UPC: 726452013053
Floral, ripe pear, red apple, light earthy aromas. Fresh, round, juicy palate with a hint of sweetness. Honey, spicy, baked pear, apple skin and citrus flavours. A bit thin and tart on the finish but it is built for food. Try this with a classic summer salad.
Argiolas Costamolino Vermentino di Sardegna 2012, Sardinia, Italy
Price $20 | Score 89/100
UPC: 8010544112758
Another winner from 2012. Big ginger, floral, spicy, melon aromas mix with notes of quince, apple and citrus. Fresh, creamy, juicy, off-dry palate with honey, orange, baked pear, ginger and butter flavours. Plenty of flavour to easily match most summer seafood dishes or white meats including turkey.
Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Reserve de Vaudon 2012, Chablis, Burgundy, France
Price $29 | Score 90/100
UPC: 0012086322112
More like 2010, this is a delicious example of straight-up Chablis. The fruit is bio-dynamically grown and the fermentation and aging is all done in stainless steel for 7-8 months. Expect an expressive nose, at least for Chablis, with floral, yellow fruits with bits of chalk and minerality. The attack is fresh with fine acidity, red apple fruit and stony minerality. A perfect oyster wine. Big price jump coming.
Salentein Killka Collection Red Blend 2012, Argentina
Price $15 | Score 87/100
UPC: 7798074861599
The attack is fresh and elegant with a touch of tannin and sweetness. Earthy, tobacco, cassis, blackberry, mocha, licorice and savoury herb flavours. Light but well-balanced, entry-level red. Excellent value for money ratio. Back in the truck for parties.
Falernia Carmenère Syrah Reserva 2011, Elqui Valley, Chile
Price $19 | Score 89/100
UPC: 7809623200391
Big spicy, black cherry, plum jam, savoury, black pepper, mint, dried eucalyptus aromas with light smoked meat notes. Fresh, round, juicy and dry palate with light tannins. Blackberry, savoury, licorice, meaty, chocolate, vanilla and five-spice flavours with a bit of marmalade and cedar on the finish. Despite a warm finish, this has plenty of fruit and intensity without being too big, offering the best of both varieties. Excellent value.
