The Good The Glass The Ugly

Although like The Vancouver Convention & Exhibition Centre, I'm adding the Sheraton Vancouver Wall Centre Hotel to my list of local establishments that employ very poor wine glasses. You know the ones I mean, as you swirl your wine the liquid climbs the side of the glass and spills out onto your neighbour.

Why we put up with such inferior glassware is beyond me. I'm sure it has to do with some cost formula, but given most hotels routinely triple the base price of the wines they sell, I find it unacceptable.

I know some wine regions that refuse to hold their events in any venues that cannot provide a sensible wine glass. That said, kudos to West, who took home the top restaurant award in the city for the second year in a row. Chef David Hawksworth's understated food is surpassed only by his equally modest demeanour. By the way, the stemware at West is as outstanding as the service.

Earlier the same day I was fortunate to run through a series of champagnes produced by Delamotte and Salon at Lumiere. The House of Delamotte was founded in 1760 in the heart of the Cote des Blancs in Mesnil-sur-Oger and in 1988, Delamotte joined forces with Salon under the umbrella of the parent company, Laurent-Perrier. Salon turns out but one label, its vintage tete de cuvee Blanc de Blancs and only in outstanding years. Considered to be the rarest of champagnes, Salon has released only 30 vintages in the last 76 years.

We tasted the superb $350-plus 1988 and the 1996, in perfectly-shaped, elongated, flutes but more on that when they arrive in the market. Chef Rob Feenie whipped up some small plates to accompany the bubble that were all Feenie -- inventive, tasty and a perfect match.

The next evening I co-hosted a tasting of eight 1990 Bordeaux with local wine nut Sid Cross at the Chevalier des Vins de France (www.chevaliers-vancouver.com). Given my regular tasting schedule is chock full of young wines most days, it was a rare opportunity to look back at a great vintage in Bordeaux and to support a club that has done so much to champion fine wine in this market. The wines showed well, with particularly high marks going to the 1990 Montrose and Trotanoy, if you are lucky enough to have them in your cellar. Unfortunately, you can add the Rosedale on Robson Suite Hotel to the growing list of purveyors of inferior banquet glassware.

Today's wine picks are an eclectic bunch beginning with Antinori Santa Cristina Sangiovese 2005. The '05 was less hot in Tuscany and that suits the revamped Santa Cristina style with its more floral, more vibrant flavours. The style is definitely evolving under winemaker Renzo Cotarella, offering more fragrant notes of bright cherry, plum and licorice root flavours all with a touch of chocolate. The smoother finish is linked to a touch of merlot and now, with fruit blended from Cortona, Bolgheri and Montepulciano, it tastes Tuscan. Perfect for roast chicken or spaghetti Bolognese. A solid value and much improved over the last five years.

Chablis fans will love the lemon, green apple skin, floral, lees aromas with a hint of smoke and melon that mark the Laroche Chablis 2005. Its elegant, fresh palate, creamy acidity and ripe citrus, mineral flavours shout out for seafood. Now under screwcap, it means each bottle is clean and fresh.

A star at last month's wine festival was the Heggies Vineyard Chardonnay 2005 from Eden Valley. Its fresh, crisp palate bucks the Oz chardonnay stereotype and its honey, green apple, citrus, vanilla flavours, flecked with spicy lees and toast, make it a delight to drink. New Wave, New World chardonnay.

Affordable and well made tells the story of Red Bicyclette Chardonnay 2005, a Vin de Pays d'Oc from the South of France. The entry is dry with red-apple skin, melon, honey, garlic lees and citrus flavours. Solid, fresh, well balanced.

Back to red and the rich rustic flavours of Southern Italy. Ceuso Nero d'Avola - Merlot/Cabernet 2003 hails from Sicily. It combines New and Old World styles with its spicy, meaty, floral, mocha, coriander nose and its intense coffee, cassis, olive, tobacco, cherry and prune flavours. Lamb osso buco would be a delightful match.

Finally, if you are unfamiliar with touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca -- the stars of the Upper Douro, pick up a bottle of CARM Douro Tinto 2004. The style is big, and at this point, chunky, but the floral, smoky, spicy, meaty, black licorice/black cherry nose points to a remarkable future. Lay this away for a few years or get out some prime rib and taste it now.

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ANTINORI SANTA CRISTINA SANGIOVESE 2005, TUSCANY, ITALY
Price: $15.07
UPC: 08001935361404
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Perfect for roast chicken or spaghetti Bolognese.

LAROCHE CHABLIS 2005, CHABLIS,
BURGUNDY, FRANCE
Price: $29.95
UPC: 3292060024790
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Terrific ripe citrus, green apple, floral, mineral, flinty flavours. Oysters please.

HEGGIES VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2005, EDEN VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Price: $27.99
UPC: 09311789018041
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Finesse, balance and big flavour.

RED BICYCLETTE CHARDONNAY 2004, VIN DE PAYS D'OC, LANGUEDOC, FRANCE
Price: $14.99
UPC: 085000012949
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Solid, fresh, well balanced, good value.

CEUSO NERO D'AVOLA - MERLOT/ CABERNET 2003, SICILY, ITALY
Price: $43.78
UPC: 8032484870116
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Tobacco, cherry and vanilla; a combination of New and Old-world styles.

CARM DOURO TINTO 2004, DOURO VALLEY, NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Price: $19.75
UPC: 05606710533002
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Chunky brawny rustic Douro with big potential.