The Golden Goose Has Been Fleeced

I'm particularly interested in trying to understand the impact of the rising Canadian dollar on California wine prices and, with 100 wineries expected to pour 350 wines, it should be the ideal time to find out if we are ever going to get a drop in prices.

So far, the price corrections have been spotty and mostly minimal as we have moved from a 65-cent dollar to a currency on equal footing.

I expect we will see the true impact, if any, in the coming weeks -- but don't hold your breath for lower prices. The global wine market is an intricate, complex pathway of pricing and, more and more, it would appear that the new world order of pricing is whatever the market will bear. If the economy is crashing, as it is in parts of the U.S. and Eastern Canada, then prices are likely to come off a bit in those regions but in pre-Olympic cities like Vancouver, and oil-rich provinces like Alberta, wineries and their agents seem determined to price wine at record levels, skimming the absolute most from the market.

B.C. wineries have joined in the fun, raising domestic wine prices to record levels. And, with the added perk of selling direct to restaurants and private wine shops, as well as dodging most of the taxes inflicted on imported wines, many are raking in enormous profits.

Ironically the wine drinker who was so madly courted in the '90s, the one implored to buy an extra bottle or two a year, is now being taken to the cleaners in the '00s. It reminds me of the golden goose story.

That said, it's still possible to find value in wine shops, and necessary I might add, for those of us who drink more than a bottle every two weeks. But you may have to change your thinking about which grapes and countries and producers you buy. We will keep you posted.

This week we look at five new releases, and one new-ish release, in B.C. Liquor Stores. For a complete list of stores selling these wines log on to www.bcliquorstores.com/pdf/NPIP_storelist.pdf.

First up is Di Lenardo Pinot Grigio dal Vigneto Vigne dai Vieris 2006 from Friuli. Its medium-yellow colour previews a nutty, honey, floral, baked pear nose. This is a slightly richer, heavier, "old-style" grigio with weight and heft that should work with full-bodied white meat dishes and/or heavily sauced fish dishes. The textures are round and full with spicy, earthy, pear fruit flavours. The finish is dry and clean with a touch of acidity.

The Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2005 is the full-meal deal New World chardonnay. It is whole-bunch pressed, fermented and matured in new French oak barrels and lees stirred. Its creamy buttery undertones are found throughout the relatively complex chardonnay with pear fruit, vanilla flavours and a citrusy aftertaste. It's a well-balanced stylish chardonnay that over-delivers for the price. Best with white meats and shell fish, or creamy pasta dishes.

Our first red is the Taja Jumilla Reserva 2003 from Spain. Taja is a new release here but Bordeaux-based Franck Mahler-Besse has been making this label since 1987. A mid-range Reserva from the DO Jumilla of south-east Spain, it is made Bordeaux-like mixing monastrell, tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon and merlot. The base is monastrell or mourvèdre, the result is a smoky, sultry, soft, mocha chocolate-flavoured red with a touch of baked earth and ash -- a soft, simple, barbecue red.

Still in Spain, and now the most "interesting" section to shop in at B.C. Liquor Stores, is the Valcanto Syrah 2005 from Castilla-La Mancha. This will be an easy hit with most consumers. It's made with 100-per-cent syrah that gets four months aging in American oak barrels -- think Oz, not the Rhone -- but it remains savoury and, well, Spanish. The textures are super-soft and slippery with plummy black olive, dried herb, meaty chocolate aromas and flavours. It's super-ripe and ready to drink.

Most red wine drinkers will like the Redtree Petit Sirah 2005 from California with its rich, liquorice, floral, smoky, blueberry notes. Soft and warm, there are no edges to offend. Best with ribs or other charred meat dishes for the grill.

My final pick is not a new release but it's relatively new to B.C. stores. The Marques de Casa Concha Syrah 2005 has an intriguing white pepper nose flecked with garrigue, smoky licorice and black cherry notes, and peppery, meaty flavours with a milk-chocolate, herbal finish. It has fine intensity and balance for the price. It's a touch oaky at this point but will improve with time. Drink now with roasted meats.

DI LENARDO PINOT GRIGIO DAL VIGNETO VIGNE DAI VIERIS 2006, Italy

Price: $18

UPC: 08007711000055

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Old-style grigio with weight and heft to work with full-bodied white-meat dishes.

CATHEDRAL CELLAR CHARDONNAY 2005, South Africa

Price: $17

UPC: 00748294066103

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Well-balanced stylish SA chardonnay that over-delivers for the price.

TAJA JUMILLA RESERVA 2003, Spain

Price: $17

UPC: 03432780018543

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Smoky, sultry, soft, mocha chocolate-flavoured red with a touch of baked earth.

VALCANTO SYRAH 2005, SPAIN

Price: $14

UPC: 8414837030130

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Soft and slippery with plummy, meaty chocolate flavours.

REDTREE PETIT SIRAH 2005, California

Price: $14

UPC: 00898756001033

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Soft and warm; there are no edges to offend.

MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA SYRAH 2005, Chile

Price: $24.99

UPC: 07804320117294

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Peppery, meaty flavours with a milk-chocolate, herbal finish.