The Final Curtain

Aurelio Montes (Montes Wines), Eduardo Chadwick (Vina Errazuriz), Alvaro Espinoza (Emiliana), Miguel Torres (Torres Chile), Andres Ilabaca (Santa Rita), Guy Hooper (De Martino), Matias Rios (Cono Sur) and Andrea Leon (Lapostolle) led a fabulous lineup of principals that filled the Vancouver Convention Centre West from its imposing wood-lined south walls all the way to the spectacular glass-lined, north side of the building overlooking Burrard Inlet.

The Playhouse festival grew up this year, hitting a new level of performance that simply can't be matched anywhere in this country thanks to hundreds of dedicated wine nuts who volunteer their time and expertise. While many of you have experienced the front of the room ser-vice, it's the back of the house and the setting of the glasses, pouring, decanting and vigilant checking for bad bottles that really gets the attention of visiting winery principals who are literally whisked into the room moments before the lights go on, essentially with nothing to worry about except to present their story.

Speaking of stories, California was named the theme "country" for the 35th Play-house wine bash while Chardonnay will be the underlying grape theme in 2013. (In a statement late Friday, the festival said it would continue next year, despite the winding down of the Playhouse Theatre Company's operations.) In some ways it seems like déjà vu after last year's Chilean announcement, as in, can the Golden State step up and pull itself out of its present malaise?

There isn't much California wine under $20 of any interest in this market unless you are a fan of wines that have no sense of place or that pander to marketing types who are bent on dumbing down wine to the level of Coca-Cola, and in the case of the reds that includes getting some cola flavours into the wines.

Generally screw cap and sub-appellation resistant, and not exactly a champion of organic or bio-dynamic grape growing, California is more about alcohol and new oak. There are pockets of excitement but those wines get short shrift in B.C. where the bigger the producer, the more copious the listings.

The somewhat recent passing of Jess Jackson, and before that Robert Mondavi, has left the Golden State with precious few icons or storytellers to inspire wine lovers. So we will be watching with interest as California assembles its team of principals and wineries to come to Vancouver and present the state of California wine in 2013.

Not all California wine can be described as above, but over the last decade most of the best bottles have disappeared from this market victims of high FOB prices combined with a wicked level of taxation. Add in the aforementioned determination of distributors and producers, the "California" appellation is reduced to a group of mostly sweet, alcoholic wines that have price appeal, but little if any resemblance to wine that, comes from somewhere, and that is made by somebody. The good news is California has time to gather itself and storm the market next year. It is going to be interesting to see who steps up.

In the meantime, we kick of the announcement with six California wines on the market.

I really enjoy the J Cuvée 20 Brut NV from Sonoma County. Owner Judy Jordan has the best looking bottle and logo in California, and I mention it because the juice inside is even better than the package. You will love its nutty, brioche baked green apple, honey, pear aromas and crisp, juicy acidity. Expect cherry, nutty, floral, citrus, green apple, honey flavours wrapped in finesse and value. The blend is 49/49/2 Chardon-nay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier. Only sold in private stores: Kitsi-lano Wine Cellar and Libations Wine and Beer Dundarave.

Typically rich and satiny, the Hahn Winery Chardonnay "Nicky Hahn" 2009 from Santa Lucia Highlands comes with spicy, baked apple aromas and pineapple, peach and over-ripe pear flavours and a creamy baked apple, butterscotch finish with a dollop of vanilla. Rich, if a bit sweet, in the back end but would easily tame a roast chicken or turkey.

Light lees, green apple, pear, vanilla, floral, honey and guava notes mark the nose of the Rodney Strong Chardon-nay 2010. Fresh and juicy, the attack is slightly sweet with honey, grapefruit, vanilla, butter, green apple and pear flavours. A solid New California, consumer-style Chardonnay.

Avalon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 has an open, smoky, dried cherry fruit note with a touch of spicy and vanilla. The attack is warm and supple, with chocolate cherry/orange, cassis, dried herbs, licorice and mineral flavours. Try this New World Cabernet with beef tenderloin.

The Cameron Hughes Lot 244 California Field Blend 2009 mixes Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Carignane to produce a rich, round, warm, juicy red with peppery, lico-rice root, five-spice, prune, plum and black berry jam flavours. Powerful and alcoholic, but fruity. Best with grilled meats.

Another fine rendition of the iconoclastic Caymus Caber-net Sauvignon 2009 that is mostly no holds barred. There are eight Napa Valley sub-appellations in the mix, and they include both the big, linear mountain fruit and the glossy, rich flavour profile of the valley floor. The attack is rich, the texture supple with fine-grained tannins mixing with dark chocolate and black fruits all over the palate that persist well into the finish. Grilled steak is the pairing here.

J Cuvée 20 Brut NV, Russian River, Sonoma County, Calif.

Price: $30

UPC: N/A

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Excellent finesse, delicious fruit and fine value.

Hahn Winery Chardonnay "Nicky Hahn" 2009, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County, Calif.

Price: $22

UPC: 00086788555901

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Perfect with roast chicken or turkey.

Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2010, Sonoma County, Calif.

Price: $23

UPC: 087512913257

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Solid, new California, consumer-style Chardonnay.

Avalon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Napa Valley, Calif.

Price: $27

UPC: 00851718000024

Score: 89/100

Remarks: A ready-to-drink, New World cabernet.

Cameron Hughes Lot 244 California Field Blend 2009, Calif.

Price: $23

UPC: 845517002440

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Juicy palate with peppery, licorice root, five spice and blackberry jam flavours.

Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Napa Valley, Calif.

Price: $69

UPC: 017224710103

Score: 90/100

Remarks: The textures are supple with fine-grained tannins, dark chocolate and black fruits.

Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Golden+State+shine+again/6282605/story.html#ixzz1p42eYXM6