The Best Wine In Canada

wineries have once again found favour with the panel of national judges, which included this writer. The annual survey conducted by Wine Access magazine attracted more than 650 wines this year, each made with 100-per-cent Canadian-grown fruit.

The judges were busy handing out medals, 263 in all or roughly 40 per cent of the entries. While it's fair to say there was more good wine than ever, with only 25 gold medals awarded, the judges also made it clear there was less great wine. It's probably a sound message in B.C. where an over-heated Okanagan real-estate market, which has nothing to do with adding any extra quality to our wine, appears to be pushing wine prices into the stratosphere.

As has been the case in previous years, the 16 independent judges come to the CWA with global palates and tend to use higher benchmarks when computing a wine's intrinsic value or worth. So when they are faced with a flight of chardonnay with no information about price or producer, they tend to focus on what's in the glass. Without the hype and packaging, many $25 wines (and there were plenty) can look pretty ordinary.

Of course, other wines thrive in such a competitive environment and, as always, there were some great surprises. Here's a brief summary of some of the B.C. highlights, followed by six picks you just might be able to buy this weekend. For more information, you can check out the complete results at www.canadianwineawards.ca.

Sumac Ridge 2002 Steller's Jay Brut ($25) topped all local sparklers, grabbing silver in the bubble category while earning the same accolade for its 2005 Private Reserve Rose ($11), as it turns out one of the best value wines in the competition.

Sumac also figured in the top Pinot Blanc results, striking silver for its 2005 Private Reserve ($13) this time joined by the Lake Breeze 2005 ($16).

This year, the large-ish Pinot Gris category yielded but one gold medal and it went to the affordable Calona Vineyards Artist Series 2005 ($14).

The Chardonnay Oaked category saw winemaker Kelly Moss of Blasted Church top the B.C. field with a delicious, gold-medal-winning 2004 Chardonnay Revered Series ($26).

One of my favourites, Mt. Boucherie Estate 2005 Estate Collection Riesling ($15) was the only B.C. wine to earn gold in the Riesling Dry to Off Dry category dominated by Ontario wineries.

Gewurztraminer gold went to two very fine B.C. wines: Calona Vineyards Artist Series 2005 ($14) and Thornhaven Estate 2005 ($15) -- see today's B.C. pick of the week on this page.

The Sauvignon Blanc and Other White Aromatics categories yielded three silver medals to Sandhill Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($17), Quails' Gate Estate 2005 Limited Release Chenin Blanc ($19) and another to Sandhill for its 2005 Small Lots Viognier ($25)

The Pinot Noir gold went to Ontario's Coyote's Run 2004 Black Paw Vineyard ($36), while several B.C wineries wrestled with silver: Cedar Creek Estate 2004 Estate Select ($27), CedarCreek Estate 2004 Platinum Reserve ($40), Golden Mile Cellars 2005 Black Arts ($35), Mission Hill Family Estate 2004 Reserve ($22), NK'Mip Cellars 2004 Quam Qwmt ($30) and a pair of Quails' Gate Estate 2004 Limited Release ($25) and 2004 Family Reserve ($40).

There was no gold medal Cabernet Franc, but B.C.'s Burrowing Owl Estate Winery 2004 ($27) grabbed the much-deserved silver.

A hard-fought gold medal went to winemaker Randy Picton's soft and suave NK'Mip Cellars 2003 Qwam Qwmt Merlot ($30) while Jackson-Triggs Okanagan took two important gold medals for its cabernet sauvignon labels: 2004 Proprietors' Grand Reserve ($25) and 2004 SunRock ($30).

The Red Blends Meritage and Non-Bordeaux Varieties yielded a big surprise in the form of a gold medal for the Summerhill 2002 Cabernet ($19), but a gold is no surprise for the delicious Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2004 Red Meritage Proprietors' Grand Reserve ($25).

The most impressive category three years running has been the Syrah/Shiraz flight. A single gold went to the Burrowing Owl Estate 2003 Syrah ($30), followed by several silvers from Jackson-Triggs Okanagan - 2004 Shiraz Proprietors' Grand Reserve ($25), 2004 Shiraz Proprietors' Reserve ($19) and 2004 SunRock Vineyard Shiraz ($30).

Sweet wine gold went to Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2005 Riesling Icewine Proprietors' Grand Reserve ($60), and Gehringer Brothers 2005 Minus 9 Ehrenfelser Icewine ($48).

According to my research, the award-winning wines I've selected this week are still on B.C. liquor store shelves. Don't wait to pick some up.

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Calona Vineyards Pinot Gris Artist Series Reserve 2005, Okanagan Valley
Price: $13.49
UPC: 058976380237
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Fine fruity spicy melon/baked pear palate flecked with mineral flavours.

Sandhill Gewurztraminer Seven Mountain Vineyard 2005, Okanagan Valley
Price: $16.99
UPC: 058976380787
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Big mineral, spicy, red apple, ginger citrus rind with dried lychee fruit.

Hawthorne Mountain Merlot 2004,
Okanagan Valley
Price: $14.99
UPC: 624738007010
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Spicy, smoky, plummy fruit at an attractive price.

Inniskillin Okanagan Pinot Grigio Reserve 2005, Okanagan Valley
Price: $14.99
UPC: 620654011094
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Slightly sweet entry with red apple, citrus, mineral, floral, nutty pear flavours.

Mission Hill S.L.C. Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2004, Okanagan Valley
Price: $29.99
UPC: 776545995681
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Elegant with kiwi, grapefruit rind, green melon, smoky, gooseberry flavours.

Quails' Gate Chenin Blanc Limited Release 2005, Okanagan Valley
Price: $18.99
UPC: 778856105035
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Chalky, lime rind, passion fruit nose with green apple, honey flavours.