The Best and Worst of 2010

For Chateau Lafite Rothschild its best moment may turn out to be a worst for many of us. On October 29, in Hong Kong, a case of the 2009 Bordeaux first growth sold for an incredible $70,242.00 or $5,853.54 a bottle. I was hoping conspicuous consumption of wine was a thing of the past but it appears, at least in Asia, the game is still on.

Bordeaux's move to Asia has a lot of "little" fine wine buyers such as the once might Canadian monopolies wondering how they will get their fair share of these highly sought after bottles. In Quebec, the provincial liquor monopoly has launched its own wine agency (how that is even possible is beyond me) and is now courting private wine shops in Western Canada desperately trying to expand its market share to better secure its allocation of first growth Bordeaux wine for its home Quebec market.

In British Columbia, the BCLDB's expanded shelf space program for its top selling 30 wines seems to be working as long as you are not an exciting new wine trying to gain a foothold in the market. The consumers reward for liking a certain Cotes du Rhone red is more of the same Cotes du Rhone red in more stores and with more facings. Is this really necessary? Could the top selling brands be stacked up in the back of the house as needed so it's never out of stock? Has the current demise of the boring Australian section been lost on the brass?

A best BC moment has been the quiet but steady growth of new names pushing the boundaries and starting to make interesting, terroir-based wines in the Okanagan. Twisted Tree, Cassini, Tantalus, Painted Rock, 8th Generation, Arrowleaf, Poplar Grove, Road 13, Stag's Hollow, Stoneboat and Van Westen are all coming into their own. High prices, given the depth of foreign competition, are the only dark cloud on the horizon. 

Imported wines best moments begin with an incredible showing by Chile in Gastown this fall. A cool-climate table featuring a number of new Chilean coastal-labels was as good a run of bottles that I've have tasted at any festival this year. The sold-out crowd was young and attentive and it made me feel intensely proud of Vancouver's future as a wine drinking city.

New Zealand pinot noir and Argentine malbec stole the show at the Playhouse Wine Festival providing a best moment where two countries shared the spotlight and received equal billing: only in Vancouver you say.

On a personal wine growth note, standing in one of the world's highest vineyard in Cafayate at 2,200 metres above sea level provided me with a huge injection of hope that unique wines will eventually win the day in BC wine stores. Similarly, I value every precious minute spent tasting with Hermann Dönnhoff and Martin Tesch in the Nahe. Owners Sam Neill (Two Paddocks) and Rob Hay (Chard Farm) in Central Otago, New Zealand. A Saturday afternoon with Nicolas Audebert at Cheval des Andes in Mendoza and a day discovering the new Errazuriz Manzanar Vineyard in Aconcagua Costa, Chile. They were each a best moment.

Here are some new notes to kick off the New Year to restart the journey.

Casillero del Diablo Chardonnay 2009 is an amazing wine for the price. So clean and so fresh with a correct twist of lees adding complexity and body to its bright acidity and lemon apple fruit. Thirty per cent of the wine is fermented in French oak but as usual it disappears into the background. Well-made and eminently affordable.

The Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc 2009 is now officially transformed into a delicious, lean, citrus fruity sauvignon that is perfect with food. The textures are creamy, the flavours a mix of grassy melon fruit with bits of honey and spiced gingered. The fruit is a mix of vineyard lots from Dry Creek, Alexander and Russian River Valleys. Modern bright and tasty.

A blend of fruit from all the Two Paddock's vineyards and other parts of Central Otago go into Picnic by Two Paddocks Pinot Noir 2008. The nose is spicy with bits of carrot top and black cherry fruit. On the palate it is smooth and sleek with spicy, savoury black cherry fruit character. Impressive styling and weight for the price. Perfect with most fowl dishes.

Have you tasted a wine from the country of Georgia? Why not check out Tibaneli Single Estate Kindzmarauli 2008. The style is ripe and fresh with a slightly tannic palate with some sweet fruit. The flavours from the seperavi grape mix clove, earth, barnyard, prune and cherry jam with bits of toffee, tobacco and savoury, all-spice off-dry flavours. A bit rustic but with some finesse and balance.

A great year, a great name and a fair price all fit the J. L. Chave Saint-Joseph Offerus 2007 from the Rhone. Expect an intense meaty, roasted pepper, licorice root, black cherry, smoky garrigue aromas mixing with menthol, tobacco, white pepper, roasted bell pepper, cherry/medicinal/smoky flavours. A shade rustic but lots of intensity for drinking now thought 2015.

Fortified wine will be an underlying theme at the upcoming playhouse so practice is essential. The Sandeman Ruby Porto N/V is a perfect test wine. Expect a warm palate with chocolate, tobacco, earthy, peppery, dried fig, balsamic, clove flavours. A bit on the spirity side with dried fruit. Try this with fruit cake.

Our picks:

Casillero del Diablo Chardonnay 2009, Valle de Casablanca, Chile

Price $13

UPC       07804320256900

Score    87/100

Remarks              Well-made and eminently affordable. Buy it buy the case.

Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc 2009, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price      $25

UPC       742651121191

Score    89/100

Remarks              Modern, bright and tasty.

Picnic by Two Paddocks Pinot Noir 2008, Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand

Price      $27

UPC       006269900103615

Score    89/100

Remarks              Impressive styling and weight for the price.

Tibaneli Single Estate Kindzmarauli 2008, Kakheti, Georgia

Price      $20

UPC       004860001780013

Score    88/100

Remarks              Round, fresh, elegant style with cherry jam, savoury, all spice flavours.

J. L. Chave Saint-Joseph Offerus 2007, Northern Rhone Valley, France

Price      $39

UPC       3760046000026

Score    90/100

Remarks: A shade rustic but lots of intensity for drinking now thought 2015.

Sandeman Ruby Porto N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price      $21.50

UPC       005601083001585

Score    87/100

Remarks              Spirity chocolate, dried fig, balsamic, clove flavours.