Earlier this month the office of the Lieutenant-governor Stephen L.
Point announced the list of 2012 winners of the Lieutenant-governor's Awards for Excellence in British Columbia Wines. This year's competition attracted nearly 350 wines from a record 94 wineries from across the province.
The Lieutenant-governor's Awards for Excellence in British Columbia Wines is like no other competition because the panel of judges is asked to choose only their top or preferred wines in each flight. No gold, no silver, no bronze, simply the best wines on the day, or in this case the two days.
The awards date back to 2003 when then-Lieutenant-governor, the Honourable Iona Campagnolo, consulted with B.C. wine industry professionals to establish awards that would "recognize and honour excellence in wines made from 100 per cent British Columbian grown and produced wine."
The annual competition, supported and primarily administered under the Government House Foundation, asks for no fee to enter a wine. The only two restrictions for entering the competition are: wines have to be 100-per-cent British Columbian grown and produced, and each winery is limited to four entries.
I was not a judge this year but I have participated in the past, and from a judge's point of view the process is simple. You spend one day selecting a little more than 10 per cent of the best wines and then you reconvene the next day and select anywhere from about eight to 12 wines that simply stand out, or as the competition states, "achieve excellence."
According to local food writer and longtime Lieutenant-governor's Awards for Excellence in British Columbia judge Tim Pawsey, "Overall the standard of 2012 entries was high, even allowing for some of the challenges of the last two vintages.
"The number of flawed wines was negligible, and the incidence of corked bottles was greatly diminished thanks to the predominance of screw-cap closures."
I can only concur regarding the use of screw-cap closures in B.C. Most every white wine has improved immeasurably under screw cap because it gives the winemaker the tool to preserve the delicate cool-climate fruit and nuances in our wines that are so easily obliterated by cork. Even better news is that older bottles (two to three years is a lifetime for many whites) appear youthful and better than ever on restaurant wine lists.
Now to the 2012 winning wines. Our list includes all the winners, not just the six we chose to feature with labels. Prices are approximate, especially given their new status. Really, the only place to buy these wines is online via the winery website or possibly in local restaurants. Good hunting.
You don't hear much about sparkling wine at JT Okanagan, but the Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate 2008 Entourage Sparkling Chardonnay wowed the judges with its creamy textures and lively citrus flavours. A new serious contender in the Okanagan sparkling wine world.
JM Bouchard is ready to set the south Okanagan on fire with his electric Road 13 wines. Among the first to strike gold will be the mouth-watering Road 13 Vineyards 2011 Jackpot Viognier Roussanne Marsanne ($29). White Rhone-style blends can be sensational and I expect Road 13 and Moon Cursor to be leaders with these grapes in the south Okanagan.
Viognier from Naramata can be captivating as evidenced by the Ruby Blues Winery 2011 Viognier ($25) whose floral, honey, grapefruit rind and mango aromas must have seduced the judges.
You can set your watch by the Thornhaven Estate Winery 2011 Gewürztraminer ($19) and, given the price, you best rush to find this wine. It wins a lot of competitions and rightfully so. Love the purity and juicy fruit in this wine.
Vivre Winery 2009 Pinot Noir ($19). Always a pretty Pinot, its understated styling is exactly where Pinot Noir should be headed in the valley and its Similkameen origins is a wonderful boost for this underappreciated side valley.
Gold Hill Winery has only been around a year, but the Osoyoos-based winery hit the podium with its Gold Hill Winery 2009 Cabernet Franc ($25). Cabernet Franc is really making inroads in the south Okanagan and it would be nice to see some other wineries achieve the level of Cabernet Franc we see yearly at Burrowing Owl.
Hester Creek Estate Winery 2008 Reserve Merlot ($27) reflects all the work that has gone into the vineyards and the new winery facility on the Golden Mile. Kudos to winemaker Rob Summers for making a quintessential soft savoury northwest Merlot.
Syrah always does well in competition and the Laughing Stock Vineyards 2010 Syrah ($34) was similarly rewarded. The fruit is predictably Osoyoos rich and showy; the winery mindset is the famed northern Rhone appellation Cote Rôtie. They have even added a dash of Viognier.
Painted Rock winery owner John Skinner grabbed two LG awards for his Painted Rock Estate Winery 2009 Syrah ($36) and the Painted Rock Estate Winery 2009 Red Icon ($50). Both are rich sturdy reds that speak to the detail and care going on at Painted Rock. Refinement is next on the list at Painted Rock and we look forward to finesse taking over here.
Fine-grained tannins and soft, savoury, black fruit flecked with sage is the Poplar Grove style and it is easy to see why the judges would gravitate toward the Poplar Grove Winery 2009 Cabernet Franc ($35). Steaks, anyone?
Thornhaven Gewürztraminer 2011, Okanagan Valley
Price: $18
UPC: 00626990012313
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Freshness, varietal character and ripe citrus, lychee fruit flavours
Ruby Blues Viognier 2011, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley
Price: $25
UPC: 626990114369
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Fresh, juicy, tart canned pineapple, orange peel and apple skin flavours
Road 13 Jackpot Viognier Roussanne Marsanne 2011, Okanagan Valley
Price: $29
UPC: 626990081364
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Floral, spicy, tangerine, nectarine, orange, mineral flavours
Hester Creek Reserve Merlot 2008, Okanagan Valley
Price: $18
UPC: 128260 370012
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Sleek, soft, smooth, savoury red fruits with a touch of mocha
Poplar Grove Cabernet Franc 2009, Okanagan Valley
Price: $35
UPC: 00626990076681
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Savoury, black fruit and sage flavours full of finesse
Painted Rock Syrah 2009, Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley
Price: $40
UPC: 00626990105855
Score: 88/100
Remarks: A New World Syrah stance mixing licorice, smoke, black tea and plums
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