The 35th Vancouver International Wine Festival: A Preview

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We begin with California, the theme region in 2013, and its signature red varietal, zinfandel. Once immensely popular with the punters as a fun everyday red, zinfandel's popularity was side-swiped by the rush to shiraz in the 1990s and then trampled by the malbec crowd in the 2000s despite its similarly appealing, very high consumer-friendly tasting quotient.

Renowned wine writer Gerald Asher once described California's best zinfandel as wines that are grown on the state's viticultural fringes. Ironically, zinfandel's ability to adapt to a wide range of growing sites also ensures there is no single style or definition of this varietal wine and, in my estimation, this is the roadblock to zinfandel getting the respect it should from wine buyers.

What attracts consumers to zinfandel is its soft textures and aromatic berry fruit flavours, reminiscent of cinnamon, black cherries and plums. It's been aptly described as a comfortable old pair of shoes perhaps alluding to its soft, easy-sipping nature and low tannins. But these traits, or most of them, could be attributed to shiraz and malbec as well, hence the decline in zinfandel sales.

It is possible to make cheap zinfandel in many lesser regions of California and there seems to no shortage of players who want to do so. The zinfandel category has shrunk to less than 50 wines in government stores and one third of those are pink, or white as they prefer to say in California.

Today we offer a very quick primer on some of the more prominent homes of California zinfandel that you are likely to encounter at the festival while elsewhere on this page we preview some tasting homework.

Sonoma county's Dry Creek Valley is home to many 100-plus-year-old vines that flourish on a series of benches and hills high above the valley floor. Basking in the alternating heat of the afternoon sun and cool morning fogs, it is the quintessential home of zinfandel. Exquisitely varietal, wines produced here project a distinct berry fruit, less pepper, and drink early without sacrificing the ability to age.

Nearby Lytton Springs, where the Dry Creek and Russian River valleys converge, is a much warmer site. Zinfandel here is bolder, and contains more stuffing and alcohol. Ridge Vineyards is a longtime champion of the region, offering both Ridge and Lytton Spring labels, and will pour them at the festival.

The cooler Russian River Valley delivers a brighter, fruitier style characterized by strong raspberry like flavours and bright acidity.

In warm years the zinfandel can be rich and fat.

Sonoma Valley is another diverse appellation that contrasts dry-farmed, mountainside vineyards with the cool, rolling hills of the nearby Carneros district.

Sonoma's landlocked Alexander Valley, produces some fine zinfandel at Geyserville about halfway between Healdsburg and Cloverdale in the county's northeast corner. Here the style is easy-drinking, the fruit a plummy, blackberry mix, the textures soft without excessive alcohol.

Sites along the base of Napa Valley's Mount Veeder and Spring Mountain yield a similar, supple style . Specific offerings from higher on Howell Mountain and Mount Veeder are drier, more intense, Bordeaux-like zin prized by connoisseurs.

San Luis Obispo, mainly the Paso Robles AVA with its hot days and cool maritime evenings, is a breeding ground for deliciously soft, supple and generous zinfandel.

Finally, from Amador County in the Sierra foothills, the zinfandels of Shenandoah Valley are among the Golden State's biggest.

Cameron Hughes buys surplus grapes -- in this case a field blend of zinfandel, petite sirah, Syrah and carignane -- and has made a delicious peppery, savoury, floral red.

Cameron Hughes Lot 313 California Field Blend Zinfandel-Petite Sirah-Syrah-Carignane 2010 California, United States

Price $20 | Score 88/100

UPC 845517003133

Cameron Hughes buys surplus grapes -- in this case a field blend of zinfandel, petite sirah, Syrah and carignane -- and has made a delicious peppery, savoury, floral red. The attack is smooth with coffee bean, cedar, tobacco, chocolate, cherry kirsch, briar and pepper flavours. A bit warm and candied, but solid fruit and balance. Try this with barbecue fare for best results.

Ravenswood Sonoma Old Vine Zinfandel 2009, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price $25 | Score 87/100

UPC 715826104909

Enticing savoury, licorice, blackberry, plum nose with some dried herb aromas. The attack is dry, the palate full and juicy with some astringent tannins. Plum, black cherry, cedar, pepper, licorice root, smoky, orange peel flavours. Solid fruit, if somewhat lean and firm in the finish. This will be best served with grilled meat entrées or left to age three more years. The blend is 84-per-cent zinfandel with petite sirah, carignane and mixed black fruits.

Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel 2011, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price $33 | Score 89/100

UPC 00088254758724

Floral, plum, blackberry, spicy, licorice root, leather aromas. Fresh, dry, round, juicy palate with light tannins and bright black cherry, floral, peppery, chocolate, savoury, cedar flavours. Very warm but good fruit and intensity. Love the youthful fruit and dryness that gives this wine flexibility with food. A fine blueprint for everyday zinfandel with style.

Terra d'Oro Zinfandel Deaver Vineyard 2009, Amador County, California, United States

Price $35 | Score 88/100

UPC 009460000261

Big peppery, briary, black cherry, smoky, barnyard, chocolate aromas. The entry is warm and full with juicy fruit and light tannins. More black licorice, pepper, savoury, floral, briar, salty tobacco and herb flavours that finish dry and warm. Consider serving this slightly chilled to tame the heat in the finish. Spare ribs anyone?

Clos du Val Zinfandel 2010, Napa Valley, California, United States

Price $35 | Score 89/100

UPC 081761309120

Big black licorice, blackberry nose with a fresh, juicy lean palate with light astringent tannins. Chocolate, prune, coffee, blackberry, licorice root, cedar and briar flavours. The finish is warm and fresh and youthful, but on the austere side. This will improve with hearty fare like lamb stew or another five years in bottle. A much preferred drier style for this taster.

Seghesio Old Vine Zinfandel 2009, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price $50 | Score 91/100

UPC 00088254758748

Impressive blackberry jam, plum, floral, licorice nose with savoury, briar, leather, chocolate aromas. There is more depth and complexity here with coffee, chocolate, blackberry jam, plum, poultry spice and licorice root flavours. Warm but with fine fruit and acidity with some tannin to allow it to age two to five years. Grilled steak is the ticket here.

Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Raise+glass+zinfandel/7876979/story.html#ixzz2KLTyFkjW