Tempranillo - Spain's Champion Red Grape

If there is a single, noble, grape variety that spells Spain most would agree it's tempranillo even if most Spaniards can not agree on a single name to refer to the country's most famous red grape.

Unlike most classic grapes, think riesling, merlot, chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon, tempranillo has more aliases than a con man.

In La Rioja, Navarra, Somontano and the Levante it is known by its international moniker tempranillo. But in La Mancha it's known as cencibel and in the south of Madrid it's referred to as valdepeñas. Ull de Llebre (eye of the hare) is its Catalonian name; they call it Tinta de País or Tinto Fino in Ribera del Duero and Tinta de Toro" in Toro.

Despite the name changes the thick-skinned, black grape makes full-bodied, at least in the European sense, red wine. Its name springs from the Spanish word "temprano", meaning early or in this case early ripening always an attractive characteristic for winemakers.

It's most famous expression is in the rich, velvety red wines of La Rioja, where it is mostly blended with garnacha tinta, mazuelo and graciano and then aged in American and/or French oak barricas. Clearly tempranillo responds well to oak ageing in Rioja where vanilla and soft, spicy fruity notes mark its character.

More recently tempranillo has begun to appear on many Spanish labels mixed with a variety of other grapes from across the country. Here are just a few of the better tasting new labels you will find in government wine stores.

A bargain basement buy is the Castillo de Liria 2002 selling for a mere $7.99. The nose is a mix of peppery, prune, dried cherry fruits with a touch of leather. It is smooth and round on entry with chocolate, cherry, spicy and pruny leather flavours with enough acidity to remain interesting. Sound, simple and very good value.

Smoky, cherry, tobacco, raspberry leaf, barnyard aromas will entice you to sip a glass of the Masia Hill Tempranillo de Penedès 2003. So soft and suave on the palate its cherry jam, smoky, licorice strawberry flavours seemed to effortlessly slide down the palate. This is solid, well balanced, every day tempranillo that would pair well with a variety of light white meat dishes.

Experienced wine drinkers would associate the Osborne name with sherry but this time out it is attached to the Osborne Solaz Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ― an 80/20 tempranillo cabernet blend from Tierra de Castilla, Spain. This is a fruit forward tasty mix of grapes reminiscent of plums with a spicy earthy aftertaste. Served liberally around the barbecue.

Another Spanish red making inroads with consumers is the Rubens Tempranillo 2003 from La Mancha. Its spicy, black raspberry jam and smoky aromas come with some gamey animal and reduced rubbery notes that tend to dissipate in the glass -- so decant this wine if possible for 30 minutes. On the palate, it is soft, round and supple with black raspberry jam and coffee flavours with a meaty dry dusty finish. A wine for grilled meats or perhaps spaghetti and meatballs.

Some 24 months in American oak gives the Vina Albali Gran Reserva 1997 a rich tobacco, peppery, spicy, saddle leather nose streaked with cherry jam and a strong streak of vanilla, ash and game. This is rich tempranillo with round smooth textures and spicy, black cherry jam, earthy, licorice, flavours. The finish is a mix of meaty, smoky oak and maraschino cherry notes. Fine intensity, stylish and ready to drink.

The Castillo de Almansa Selección 2000 mixes monastrell with tempranillo and cabernet sauvignon. The nose is a peppery, licorice root affair with spicy clove, dark chocolate, and saddle leather aromas. The flavours are similarly arranged showing more black cherry, black raspberry, coffee and tobacco. It's a touch warm (alcoholic) but well balanced and showing some elegance. Fine length and good fruit marks the finish/. A perfect match for grilled lamb chops.

Weekend Tasting: Tempranillo from Spain

Wine Castillo de Liria 2002, Valencia

Price  $7.99

UPC   8410310025020

Score 85/100

Remarks    Simple sound everyday red to be served with food.

Wine Masia Hill Tempranillo de Penedès 2003, Catalonia

Price  $11.99

UPC   8420418001017

Score 87/100

Remarks    Cherry jam, gamey, smoky, licorice and strawberry flavours.

Wine Osborne Solaz Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, Valdepeñas, Castilla-La Mancha

Price  $12.35

UPC   22851801018

Score 86/100

Remarks    This is a fruit forward BBQ red reminiscent of earthy spicy plums.

Wine Rubens Tempranillo 2003, La Mancha, Castilla-La Mancha, Spain

Price  $14.99

UPC   8437004820037

Score 86/100

Remarks    Supple textures with chocolate and black raspberry flavours.

Wine Vina Albali Gran Reserva 1997, Valdepeñas, Castilla-La Mancha

Price  $19.95

UPC   8410702000062

Score 89/100

Remarks    Black cherry jam, licorice, tobacco, smoky oak and maraschino notes.

Wine Castillo de Almansa Selección 2000, Almansa, Castilla-La Mancha

Price  $22.99

UPC   8414837010316

Score 88/100

Remarks    Ripe black raspberry, coffee, tobacco and earthy, cooked berry notes.