TALUS WINES

Maybe that's what the producer had in mind, although somehow I doubt it. Those names are about branding, and somewhere along the line they will have scored well in a marketing focus group. If the name's on a bottle, you can only hope the same interest and resources that go into developing the brand also go into the winemaking. One California wine brand that exceeds on both scores is Talus. I know what you are thinking - Talus could be a North Shore subdivision, or a golf course north of Nanaimo, but it does have a possible wine link. Talus is the diminutive of the Latin talutium. It means a slope indicating the presence of gold under the soil. More likely, the link is to the modern definition of talus, a slope formed by the accumulation of rock debris at the base of a cliff. Whatever the significance, Talus offers something few if any other California wines can match. It begins with flavour everywhere, but there is also a crucial modicum of restraint that allows the grape variety to show through. There is also the matter of price. Talus may be the best California value sold here. Since the brand was introduced in late 1995, most of what I've tasted has exceeded my expectations. The problem has been finding the wines. Until recently, Talus wines were only available in restaurants and private shops. Now, some are appearing in government liquor stores. The Talus philosophy is to "listen to the grapes," and winemaker Todd Ziemann spends considerable time selecting top quality grapes in order to do just that. As a bonus, in 1998 the winery switched to synthetic corks, ensuring every bottle you buy is sound. Here's a look at the newest Talus vintages, some of which are already in B.C. stores; others are expected soon. The pinot grigio has an attractive nutty/almond/yogurt aroma that spills out of the glass. The entry is rich before the flavours turn mostly mineral, with green apple and lemon zest in the aftertaste. This is a solid, everyday white that's ideal for outdoor sipping all spring and summer. The chardonnay has always been the winery's best white and the 2000 is no different. Appealing peach, honey and butterscotch aromas (with just a touch of lees) and soft, spicy, baked-apple flavours with warm buttery undertones make this hard to pass up. It has excellent balance - not too fat, not too lean - and it's ready to drink. Even better, it normally sells for $12.95 but the price is reduced for the month of April to $12.25. The '98 cabernet sauvignon has a sweaty, leather/barnyard nose that gives it a bit of an Australian bent. The flavours are a mix of prunes and vanilla. This is a mature-tasting red with a lean, leathery, cedar-bark and earth aftertaste. It is already showing some acidity and probably should be consumed soon. Start the search now for the 1999. The 1999 merlot opens with cool, leafy, mint/cassis aromas and just a wisp of barnyard in the background. It has a lovely round entry, sour cherry fruit on the mid-palate, and soft, round textures in the finish. There's just enough acidity to hold your interest and allow it to pair well with items such as grilled chicken or soft cheeses. The zinfandel is a treat. Cedar sawdust, raspberry and cherry fruit aromas mark the nose, with a touch of sweet vanilla and chocolate. I like its thick, rich entry (especially at this price) with lots of chocolate, earth and fresh berry flavours. Pour it all summer around the barbecue. The nose of the '99 shiraz will wow you - big raspberry and blackcurrant scents with a touch of mocha and barnyard. It's soft, round and smooth on entry, and then warms up on the palate. Spicy meaty/berry fruit, with just a dusting of earth, makes this fun to sip. It's slightly acidic in the finish, but another good choice to accompany grilled meats and chicken. Weekend Wine Tasting: Talus, California Wine 2000 Pinot Grigio Price $12 to $14* Stock No. 611863 Score 14/20 Remarks Almonds and fresh green apples. Wine 2000 Chardonnay Price $12.25 Stock No. 473462 Score 15.5/20 Remarks Fresh, balanced, tasty. Killer value. Wine 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Price $12.95 Stock No. 469239 Score 13.5/20 Remarks Peppery red fruit and vanilla. Wine 1999 Merlot Price $12.95 Stock No. 475848 Score 14/20 Remarks Soft, round, fruity; easy to sip. Wine 1999 Zinfandel Price $13.95 to $15.95* Stock No. 469221 Score 15/20 Remarks Chocolate, mocha and berry flavours. Wine 1999 Shiraz Price $12.95 to $14.95* Stock No. 605501 Score 14.5/20 Remarks Spicy, earthy food wine.