Table Arts Spur Discussion with GG

Deadlines, tastings, more deadlines, more tastings, a couple of dinners and a fast trip to the south Okanagan to dine with Gov.-Gen. Michaelle Jean and her husband, Quebec filmmaker Jean-Daniel Lafond.

In 2009 the prestigious Governor General's Literary Awards will count 73 editions, but if all goes well Rideau Hall will also launch Year 1 of the Governor General's Culinary or Table Arts Awards (still a working title). Jean and Lafond were in Oliver this week to complete a national discussion that began in the east in 2006, to find a way to honour extraordinary Canadians contributing to the "arts" of food and wine.

"It won't be a competition but rather a celebration of a part of the arts, an essential part," Lafond said.

We need to share a common culture, and food and wine is perfectly shared. The mission is to develop a national conscience, a belonging, and the culinary or table arts are the secret vehicle."

After the lengthy discussions, I stepped out into the freezing evening air where temperatures in the Oliver region had plummeted to minus 15 C. Fittingly, the valley's icewine grapes, at least what was left of the desiccated fruit that has been hanging on the vine since last October, would be picked this night, the same evening Jean and LaFond revealed their plan to celebrate excellence in Canadian wine and food.

On my way back to the Guest House at Burrowing Owl Vineyard, now surely the single most spectacular wine country getaway in Canada, the moon lit up the snow-dusted vineyards along the Golden Mile and Black Sage Road, lighting the path of icewine pickers with laser accuracy -- and all was right in the south Okanagan.

Now to the work at hand. All those tastings and deadlines are calling. Here are some new reviews to begin your weekend wine search. Enjoy.

I've had some very fine South African wine in South Africa but little of it seem to make its way to Canada. The Winery of Good Hope Chenin Blanc 2006 is a decent little chenin for the price, which is more than I can say for most of the SA category. Look for fresh aromas of honey, mineral, baked pear and passionfruit aromas. The palate is elegant with moderate acidity and flavours of grapefruit rind, passionfruit, honey, pear, mineral and a nutty lees character. It is lively, with fine intensity and a fair bit of bitter citrus rind on the finish. A modest value.

A completely different kind of white wine is the Occhio A Vento Vermentino 2006 from Maremma, Tuscany. Look for enticing floral, pear aromas mixed with butter, lemon and white peach aromas. Round, dry, soft palate with apple skin, pear, lemon, butter and quince flavours. Good solid fruit core that could use a touch more acidity for freshness. Rocca delle Macìe will be at the Playhouse wine fest later next month.

Every Villa Maria I've tasted lately has impressed me, and the Villa Maria Riesling Private Bin 2006 is no exception. The fruit comes from two distinct regions in Marlborough: the higher plains of the Awatere Valley and the old river bed of the Wairau Valley. It has bright lime, floral, smoky slate, green apple, peach pit aromas.

On the palate it is fresh, crisp, moderately dry and elegant, with more slate-y, lime, green apple, guava and nectarine flavours with a pinch of petrol. Good intensity, aftertaste, balance and very good value. Great with Indian food.

A new label from an old winery, Don Miguel Gascon Malbec 2004, should have plenty of appeal. Look for a soft smoky white pepper, meaty, savoury licorice-flavoured red with bits of black fruit and chocolate. Full-bodied but balanced and with supple tannins. It represents fine value in inexpensive red wine. Grilled meats and roasts are the match.

Yering Station Shiraz Viognier 2006 is a regular winner on the Oz wine show circuit when pitted against straight shiraz, and I know why. Along with the floral viognier traits of roses and orange rind, this wine has flavour, weight and balance. The mid-palate is smooth with spicy cinnamon and black fruit with just a hint of blueberry. This is a much better model for shiraz than many we see although it could do with a pinch less of the floral viognier notes. Excellent wine.

Finally, all you GSM fans (grenache-syrah-mourvèdre) have a hit with the Rosemount GSM Show Reserve 2004 from McLaren Vale. The nose is open, offering a rich, spicy "chocolate bar" nose. The palate is supple with dense, sweet peppery raspberry fruit flavours with meaty undertones. It finishes dry with a savoury, slightly confected, chocolate aftertaste.