quicksearch
Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Friday, September 6 2002

There's never enough well-made, inexpensive red wine available as far as I'm concerned, and with the government's impending move toward privatization, via the five and dime "beer and wine" retail store model, you can say goodbye to any interesting wines made by small innovative wineries.

But don't take my word for it. Drop by a beer and wine store -- if you don't mind shopping in a pub or bar environment -- and check out the selection and prices. Let me know what you think. If you find any of today's picks I'd be pleasantly surprised. If you find any selling for less than its listed price in government stores, I'd be shocked. While the government rushes into the grey zone of "semi-privatization" -- an oxymoron if ever there was one -- we've decided to concentrate on finding the best value wines currently available at the monopoly. Sadly, most won't be around when the hotel, restaurant and pub owners, lobby finishes designing the future of private sector alcohol sales. So, for the moment, we return to one of the hottest-selling red varieties in our market, syrah, and we have restricted our choices to wines you can buy for less than $14. Some producers have been taking advantage of the rush by consumers to buy syrah of late and have tagged on some significant increases. Unfortunately in many cases what used to be good value at $12 to $14 is now merely good wine over $15. Since readers regularly tell me they want more for less I've restricted today's search for syrah to the under $14 crowd to see which, if any, measures up. Here's what I found, The Talus 1999 Shiraz, which showed so well a few months back on these pages, remains a steal. Look for black fruit aromas and flavours with a touch of mocha and barnyard in the background. It remains smooth on entry, with spicy meaty/berry fruit and a dusting of earth in the finish. Grilled meats, thin-crust pizza and soft cheeses would be fun food pairings. The 2001 Casillero del Diablo Syrah is from Chilean giant Concha y Toro and it has big shoes to fill, given the success of its predecessors from both 1999 and 2000. The current edition is slightly more herbal on the nose with its streaks of meaty/sausage, blackberry jam, coffee grounds and vanilla. Chocolate and plum flavours with good acidity and spice make this a barbecue winner -- especially with pork ribs. From across the Andes at Mendoza come the Argentine versions. Finca Flichman 2000 Syrah, as appears to be the case with all Argentinean wines, is drier and shows more leather and earth. Look for gamy, shoe-leather flavours flecked with dried compost and prunes. The structure explains why well-marbled meats grilled over an open fire are so popular in Argentina. After so much success with Argentinean bonarda, sangiovese and chenin blanc, you had to expect the globetrotting brothers Lurton would entertain the notion of making a Mendoza syrah. The Lurton 2001 Syrah, grown in the Uco Valley, is similar in style to the Flichman but there's more acidity here and a leaner (French if you like) structure. If you like your reds firm and dry this is a solid, everyday label at an affordable price. Despite its warm Riverland fruit selected for its primary fruit characters, the Banrock Station 2000 Shiraz has a cool, fruit nose with flavours reminiscent of red currants. It's a skinny shiraz by Oz standards, with a spicy oak finish. Simple and ready-to-drink, preferably with pizza. Simon Gilbert is the man behind one of Mudgee's newest wineries. The wine is made with contract grapes bought from 18 producers in the surrounding Orange, Cowra and Canowindra areas of South Australia. The Simon Gilbert 1999 Shiraz is fatter in the mouth than most in the group, and more alcoholic too. Look for a slightly oxidized nose with pruny chocolate aromas and flavours. Rich but ready, and needs drinking now. WEekend Wune Tasting: Syrah/Shiraz Producer: Talus 2000 Shiraz, California Price: $12.98 Stock No.: 605501 Score: 14.5/20 Comments: Rich spicy fruity red. Producer: Conchay Toro 2001 Syrah, Rapel Valley, Chile Price: $12.95 Stock No.: 568055 Score: 14.5/20 Comments: Cool meaty suave red. Producer: Finca Flichman 2000 Syrah, Mendoza, Argentina Price: $12.95 Stock No.: 713305 Score: 14/20 Comments: Dry earthy spicy version. Producer: Jacques et Francois Lurton 2001 Syrah, Mendoza, Argentina Price: $11.95 Stock No.: 602201 Score: 13.5/20 Comments: Lean gamy meaty red with firm acidity. Producer: Banrock Station 2001 Shiraz, South Eastern Australia Price: $12.95 Stock No.: 455014 Score: 13/20 Comments: Simple soft commercial. Producer: Simon and Gilbert 1999 Shiraz, Mudgee, Australia Price: $13.95 Stock No.: 616912 Score: 13.5/20 Comments: Pruny mocha fruit flavours.
Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.