Summer Sushi Sippers

all pinot gris but today I wanted to cherry-pick some of the better wines I've tasted already this summer.

When we changed the scoring procedure last week and moved from the 20-point system to the 100-point system I should have mentioned that most of the wines that make it on to these pages go through a simple but strict selection procedure, namely the stuff on the inside of the bottle has to bear a striking resemblance to what's written on the label, and has to offer value.

Having said that, today I want to begin with a delicious, inexpensive white wine that tastes like a white wine from the Douro should.

The Mateus Signature Douro White 2002 is well worth investigating even if you have never heard of the malvasia fino, gouveio and codega grapes that it's made from. What you will discover is a nutty, citrus rind, fresh Granny Smith bouquet wrapped about a soft, dry and elegant sipper.

If I had to describe what this wine is like, its mineral, juicy apple, and nutty honey flavours are somewhat reminiscent of a viognier. It is a fine seafood wine that possesses both finesse and value for the adventurous.

If you are nuts about sushi you might want to check out the latest in wine marketing: Sushi wine. The chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, muscadet blend is the outcome of two years of studies and tests by Bernard Germain, owner of Vignobles Germain & Associes in the Loire Valley. Sushi wine was designed with the blessing of a number of major Japanese chefs, presumably because it goes well with the flavours of sushi.

It opens with a mineral, grassy, green apple skin aromas and flavours with sweet peachy undertones. It's fresh, round and rich, with fine acidity but with some obvious sweetness. Although it's designed for sushi, its sweet fruit flavours are equally suited to spicy Indian and Chinese food here on the Pacific coast.

The first thing you notice about the Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Private Bin 2003 is its bright red screwcap closure. Always a delicious drop, the Villa Marlborough sauvignon has a clean lifted fruit nose of guava, lemons and lime with peppery, grass and anise undertones. Villa Maria has traditionally been a softer introduction to Marlborough sauvignon. A prime time summer sipper that is perfect with mussels.

You don't get much for $9 in B.C., which makes the Hardys VR Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 well worth looking at if you need to stock up on red wine. The VR, or varietal range, is meant to be an easy-drinking introductory style red wine complete with a peppery, black berry, spicy coriander nose. Cedar bark, black cherry, pepper and earth flavours complement its soft, smooth, round style. A simple, ready-to-drink red for mid-week barbecues.

About a month ago I reviewed the Smoking Loon Viognier (made by Sebastiani) and from all reports you cleaned out the shelves of government stores. Now you can buy its red companion: Pepperwood Grove Syrah 2002. Pepperwood Grove is essentially a negociant label. It's made with purchased fruit from all over California in a soft, silky smooth style.

Look for a peppery, gamey fruit flavour that slides down effortlessly and finishes warm and soft. Simple affordable, hip, tasty and wrapped in a seriously good-looking package.

Cabernet lovers will appreciate the cassis, leafy, black cherry, leather, tobacco and pepper aromas of that are the trademark of 'Maximiano Vineyard' in the Errazuriz Cabernet Sauvignon Max Reserva 2001. On the palate the wine is as rich and as round as we can remember with smooth, supple tannins. More cassis, black cherry jam, mocha, vanilla and peppery coffee flavours mark the taste with some tobacco on the finish. Very fresh with fine acidity and fine flavour intensity. One of the best yet from Errazuriz.

Weekend Wine Tasting: Mixed Picks

Wine   Mateus Signature Douro White 2002, Douro Valley, Portugal
Price   $10.99
UPC    5601012150452
Score  87/100
Remarks       Mineral, nutty, juicy apple flavours with a honey and butter finish.

Wine   Sushiwine Chenin Blanc - Sauvignon Blanc - Muscadet, Loire, France
Price   $18.99
UPC    600115991998
Score  86/100
Remarks       Designed for sushi but spicy Indian and Chinese will do.

Wine   Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Private Bin 2003, Marlborough, New Zealand
Price   $19.95
UPC    9414416305528
Score  88/100
Remarks       Guava, lemons and lime and an easy to twist, bright red screwcap.

Wine   Hardys VR Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, South Eastern Australia
Price   $8.99
UPC    9311043079689
Score  85/100
Remarks       Easy sipping, ready-to-drink red for the barbecue.

Wine   Pepperwood Grove Syrah 2002, California
Price   $18.95
UPC    017444000282
Score  88/100
Remarks       Silky smooth peppery fruit that slides down effortlessly.

Wine   Errazuriz Cabernet Sauvignon Max Reserva 2001, Valle de Aconcagua, Chile
Price   $20.90
UPC    089046777336
Score  88/100
Remarks       Cassis, black cherry jam flavours streaked with vanilla mocha.