quicksearch
Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Last week a reader commented to me that a recent column about the myriad methods available to produce chardonnay not only surprised him but got him wondering about the whole winemaking process and how it impacts the wine he drinks.

Summer Sipping Made Simple

 

The challenge of writing this column for an audience that drinks wine for undoubtedly as many reasons as winemakers have tools to make wine, often makes my head spin too. The trick is to get some useful information out to consumers without "dumbing down" the subject of wine.

 

The reader went on to say he had no idea how many decisions were made by wine growers when they are making wine. I'm not surprised. The whole subject of simplifying wine is a favourite pastime of some writers and bloggers who are sure that wine writers, and worse wine experts, who speak about the complexity of wine, are a menace to society.

 

The idea that wine is simple is a non-starter with me, unless you think history, science, biology, geography, geology, farming, sales and marketing and running a tourist business are simple. While drinking wine may be a simple act, so is listening to music, but learning something about either requires study and contemplation.

 

To wit, this week I spoke with a visiting Argentine winery owner about his wine, screw caps, red blends, high-altitude growing, how you market a wine sold in Canada, Europe and Asia, food pairings that complement his wines, organics, his winery's carbon footprint, the environmental cost of shipping wine by boat from Argentina to Canada versus what it may cost to ship a case by truck from California or the Okanagan, and much more.

 

We also spoke about the suitability of cabernet sauvignon grapes versus malbec as it is grown on Mendoza soil types, the shortage of glass bottles that can accept a screw-cap closure and even more pressing issues such as the weight of his bottles and whether he would consider reducing it in the future. Oh yes, we touched on the yeast used to make sauvignon blanc and the buying habits of Canadians versus the Chinese. I almost forgot: we tasted the wine, too.

 

This week we offer a look at six labels, some complicated, some less so, yet all deliver value for money while catering to the inquisitive, and in some cases, not so inquisitive, wine drinker.

 

The Piper-Heidsieck Brut provides a little mid-summer fun for champagne lovers with its fun red package and light nutty, toasty, green apple, citrus aromas. Elegant, lighter mousse but fine with green apple, peach skin, cherry, slightly toasty flavours. A simple, stylish bubble in a lighter brut (dry) style.

 

Michel Torino Ciclos Malbec-Merlot 2005 comes from the high-altitude Calchaqui Valley. It has a ripe spicy, floral chocolate nose with bits of pepper, licorice and meaty notes. It's a bit dry on entry and in the finish but any sort of grill meat or poultry should help mitigate the youthful tannins and reveal its core of black fruit, tar, licorice and vanilla flavours. Stylish and well-made for the price.

 

Paul Hobbs, the Sonoma-based winemaker who is the man behind huge malbec of Cobos and the many Pascual Toso labels is a big believer in Argentine cabernet sauvignon and after tasting the Santa Ana La Mascota 2005, from Maipú, Mendoza, I might be inclined to agree with him. Look for a fragrant savoury nose of licorice and black fruits. The plate is rich and full with more big black fruit, pencil shavings, ash and a spicy, stylish finish with just a twist of refreshing acidity. It too is still harbouring some youthful tannin but it should disappear with a steak or a few years bottle age. Solid value for the money.

 

See Saw Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc 2007 is an innovative cross-regional / bi-national wine that features sémillon grown in the Hunter Valley (Australia) and sauvignon blanc is grown in Marlborough (New Zealand). The wine is bright and skinny with grassy, grapefruit bits and a hint of figs. Almost white Bordeaux-like in its restraint but just fine with seafood and a wide range of shellfish. Well made.

 

Spicy, licorice, smoky, garrigue, black berry savoury aromas mark the nose of Finca Flichman Gestos Shiraz 2006. Rich and ripe on the palate, it's packed with peppery, smoky, vanilla, black cherry, meaty, licorice, leather and black-olive flavours. Good concentration and ripeness if a bit rustic and warm. Best with beef or lamb off the barbecue or give it a year or two.

 

Wow, texture, texture, texture is the story of Kaiken Malbec 2006. Chilean master winemaker Aurelio Montes had to go to Argentina, hence the moniker "Kaiken," named after the wild goose that flies back and forth across the Andes between Chile and Argentina. Rich, savoury, elegant flavours streaked with vanilla licorice, chocolate, black cherry jam and cardamom make up this version of Argentina's signature varietal. Glossy, sleek and yet restrained, this is a real bargain for consumers. Sold at Everything Wine only.

 

MICHEL TORINO CICLOS MALBEC - MERLOT 2005, CALCHAQUI VALLEY, SALTA, ARGENTINA

Price: $23

UPC: 7790189001822

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Black fruit, tar, licorice and vanilla flavours. Stylish.

 

SANTA ANA LA MASCOTA 2005, MAIPU, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $27

UPC:07790762050117

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Solid value for the money.

 

PIPER-HEIDSIECK BRUT N/V, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE

Price: $56

UPC:03018334100003

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Simple, elegant, stylish in a lighter style brut.

 

SEE SAW SEMILLION - SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007, AUSTRALIA-NEW ZEALAND

Price: $20

UPC: 09328478001017

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Cross regional and bi-national, almost white Bordeaux.

 

FINCA FLICHMAN GESTOS SHIRAZ 2006, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $18

UPC: 07790470083698

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Best with beef or lamb or give it a year or two.

 

KAIKEN MALBEC 2006, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $14 Everything Wine

UPC: 715126550012

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Glossy, sleek and yet restrained, this is a real bargain for consumers.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.