Summer Sippers from B.C.

Last week we looked at some early releases from the 2002 vintage and discovered most producers were more than pleased with the harvest especially when it comes to the aromatic varieties, such as riesling and gewürztraminer.

Although some lack the acidity to be served with food, they all can be used effectively (if well-chilled) as stand-alone, appetizer-style wine on the patio.

From the standpoint of the modern, corporate wine world, today's picks feature one owner (Cascadia Brands), a single winery (Calona Vineyards), two wine brands (Calona Artist Series and Sandhill), and one winemaker -- Howard Soon.

There's little doubt Soon is the Okanagan's friendliest winemaker and perhaps its best ambassador. The wines of Vancouver-born Soon have often distinguished themselves over the years at many important competitions but his signature is an ability to craft value-for-money wines.

Last year Cascadia Brands, Calona's parent company, concluded a complicated deal that saw the company relinquish its 50 per cent share in Burrowing Owl Vineyard Estate Winery (BOV) in exchange for ownership of 174 acres of vineyard along Black Sage Road situated to the south of BOV.

The highly-prized grapes were already under Soon's watchful eyes but since the acquisition they can be tended, classified, and earmarked for either the Calona or Sandhill wines long before the growing season ends. Always a useful tool when it comes to upping the quality of your wine.

Despite having no winery or visitor centre with which to craft a coveted estate image, the Sandhill brand, on the strength of its vineyard source and reputation in restaurants and private wine shops, continues to bump its prices up while remaining highly popular with consumers.

On the other hand Calona "Artist Series," with its ode to local artists on the label, remains a breath of fresh air when it comes to price and in the case of the '02 gewürztraminer, and the chardonnay, each offer amazing value. Here are my notes.

The Sandhill Sauvignon Blanc Burrowing Owl Vineyard 2002 opens with grapefruit and passion fruit aromas mixed with an intense, grassy scent. Lots of mineral, grapefruit rind, bell pepper and green apple flavours pervade the mid-palate before a tart, dry finish. Definitely sauvignon but the high acidity and dry finish signals food is a must -- oysters or mussels with a simple, fruit vinaigrette.

The most amazing part of the Calona Vineyards Pinot Gris Artist Series Reserve 2002 is the price -- approximately $11.99 in private wine shops. Look for spicy, floral, green apple and citrus rind aromas on the nose. The textures are crisp, with big grapefruit, green apple, mineral and peach pit flavours. A crisp, fresh style that represents good value for the summer.

The Calona Vineyards Chardonnay Artist Series Reserve 2002 (also only sold in private wine shops) offers up a buttered popcorn, smoke and melon fruit nose streaked with grapefruit rind. More fresh, buttery melon, mineral and citrus flavours mark the palate. This is a simple, straight-ahead, affordable chardonnay easily found in stores -- just look for the bright red apple and green grape label.

Mineral, apple skin and smoky oak aromas with just a touch of butter mark the nose of the Sandhill Chardonnay Burrowing Owl Vineyard 2002. The entry is soft with a slightly oily texture; the flavours a mix stylish mix of garlic, butter, and vanilla-streaked mineral and honey. Again, the finish is a bit dry and chalky so be sure to go the food route with something like lightly grilled scallops or calamari.

I really like the Calona Vineyards Gewurztraminer Artist Series Reserve 2002.The nose is awash in spicy, floral fruit scents mixed with fresh lychee and green apple aromas. It's fresh and crisp with green apple skin, mineral, peach and citrus flavours and some sweetness in the finish. A fine summer sipper we recommend with sautéed scallops in a citrus, butter sauce. Spicy Asian dishes would be sensible too.

The only red today is the Sandhill Merlot Burrowing Owl Vineyard 2001 with its medium colour, dill/olive nose and an earthy, resiny black cherry fruit aroma spiked with smoke. The true merlot textures (soft and round) are more prevalent in the '01 signalling better tannin management. The flavours are a similar mix of herbal, black cherry fruit with a dusting of smoky resin and cherry cola. Nice effort and will be perfect with grilled meat entrées.

Sun wine columnist Anthony Gismondi is also co-host of The Best of Food and Wine, which airs at noon each Saturday on CFUN 1410 AM.

Calona Vineyards/Sandhill Okanagan Valley, B.C.

Wine: Sandhill Sauvignon Blanc Burrowing Owl Vineyard 2002
Price: $14.99 Private wine shops
UPC: 058976320578
Score: 13/20
Comments: Tart, green apple, grass and bell peppers.

Wine: Calona Vineyards Pinot Gris Artist Series Reserve 2002
Price: $11.99 Private wine shops
UPC: 058976320233
Score: 14/20
Comments: Crisp, fresh, summer style at a very fair price.

Wine: Calona Vineyards Chardonnay Artist Series Reserve 2002
Price: $9.49
UPC: 058976320059
Score: 13.5/20
Comments: Straight ahead, affordable B.C. chardonnay.

Wine: Sandhill Chardonnay Burrowing Owl Vineyard 2002
Price: $15.99
UPC: 058976320288
Score: 14.5/20
Comments: Buttery vanilla flavours with mineral and honey.

Wine: Calona Vineyards Gewurztraminer Artist Series Reserve 2002
Price: $12.99
UPC: 058976320073
Score: 15/20
Comments: Classic floral/lychee and green apple fruits.

Wine: Sandhill Merlot Burrowing Owl Vineyard 2001
Price: $16.99
UPC: 0589762290321
Score: 14/20
Comments: A mix of resin, earthy, herbal black cherry fruit.