Summer Sippers

Let's hope last weekend was an aberration because it's time for everyone to start thinking about lighter, more carefree wines.

It's amazing how a few warm days can transform a lightweight, fruity wine into a quenching patio favourite that has everybody asking to see the label. Remember light and fruity doesn't have to mean flavourless and flabby, nor should the wine possess a finish that lasts longer than a weekend round of golf.

The key characteristics to look for in the perfect summer sipper include a balance of fruit and acid, moderate alcohol and a clean, crisp refreshing finish. Mineral, chalk and citrus flavours are excellent white wine flavours; red fruits and soft tannins are the attributes one associates with summer barbecue reds. Both types should work solo, as a patio sipper, or along side a variety of summer inspired dishes.

Today's all-white picks hail from a number of the world's best cool-climate zones including the Loire Valley, northern Italy, South Africa's Breede River Valley and our Okanagan Valley.

Domaine de Sancet 2002 is an intriguing mix of colombard, gros manseng, sauvignon and ugni blanc that serves up an enticing fresh, mineral, green apple skin aroma. Its tart lemon-lime flavours and extremely crisp finish are the polar opposite in style to the almost defunct heavily-oaked New World white wine and a welcomed addition to liquor stores.

If you are ready to move up to the clean fresh zippy whites of summer, this is it. Try serving this as an apéritif with a creamy B.C. goat cheese or with alongside fresh shucked oysters. Oh did I mention it sells for a meagre $9.95.

Another French white worth investigating is the Domaine Joël Delaunay 2002 from the Touraine district of the Loire Valley. This Touraine blanc is 100 per cent sauvignon with bags of clean, crisp, ripe fruit. After fermentation the wine is left on its lees in tank to further enhance flavour and texture development. Expect a mix of peach and citrus flavours with some floral notes in the finish. An impressive, fruity clean white that is tailor-made for West Coast food. Drink all summer.

From South Africa we tasted the bargain basement-priced Robertson

Winery 2002 Sauvignon Blanc. This sauvignon has a quiet, grassy, citrus nose with a whiff of gooseberry fruit. Dry, light and easy sipping, it doesn't exhibit a great deal of intensity but certainly wouldn't be out of place at picnics or for mid-day sipping on the patio. Plenty fine for the price.

The Sandhill 2002 Pinot Gris is one of the first '02 B.C. pinot gris' to appear in government stores. Sandhill is a brand (there's no winery to visit) but the fruit comes off the King Family Vineyard in Naramata and the wine is made by Calona winemaker Howard Soon.

Similar to last year the aromas and flavours have a floral/peach bent. The entry is fresh showing some lime rind flavours and hints of grapefruit. It's not as concentrated or as intense as you might expect given the hype surrounding the 2002 vintage but it remains an excellent everyday pinot gris you can drink all summer.

There's something about Libaio and its mix of mostly chardonnay with just a touch of pinot grigio that has made it one of the most consistent commercial white wines made anywhere in the world. The Libaio Chardonnay 2001 (made by Ruffino) contains 10 per cent pinot grigio grapes all of which are grown on Ruffino's Castelvecchio di Libaio estate near San Gimignano. Look for a very pleasant pear and vanilla nose with similar flavours all streaked with citrus and vanilla in the finish. A cool, tasty, affordable Italian white.

My final pick is another with a B.C address: Quails' Gate 2002 Dry

Riesling Limited Release. The Westbank white has a fresh open mineral nose flecked with lime rind. The flavours are similar but the fruit is riper and marginally sweeter in the mouth. It possesses a fine weight and mouthfeel and will be a huge hit on the patio. This is a well made $15 wine that could be an outstanding buy at $12.

SUMMER SIPPERS

Wine: Domaine de Sancet 2002, Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne, France
Price: $9.95
UPC: 3285631301102
Score: 14/20
Comments: Mineral, green apples, limes and lemons.

Wine: Domaine Joël Delaunay 2002 Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Price: $16.95
UPC: 351431000002
Score: 15.5/20
Comments: Fruity clean white tailor-made for West Coast food.

Wine: Robertson Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2002, Breede River Valley, South Africa
Price: $8.95
UPC: 746925000977
Score: 13/20
Comments: Dry, light and easy patio-sipper.

Wine: Libaio (Ruffino) 2001 Chardonnay, Tuscany, Italy
Price: $15.99
UPC: 80016601347
Score: 15/20
Comments: Pear/vanilla nose with similar flavours streaked with citrus and vanilla.

Wine: Sandhill 2002 Pinot Gris King Family Vineyard, Okanagan Valley
Price: $14.99
UPC: 05897632062
Score: 14/20
Comments: Floral peach aromas and lime rime rind flavours.

Wine: Quails' Gate 2002 Dry Riesling Limited Release, Okanagan Valley
Price: $14.99
UPC: 7788561001
Score: 14/20
Comments: Fresh mineral aromas streaked with sweet lime rind.