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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Summer is Here

By: Anthony Gismondi
Saturday, June 26 2010

It is the first week of summer and I am hoping to clean out my bulging ideas folders in search of stories with legs, but in the meantime, I will share a few of the more interesting notions as some of the stories build.

Summer is Here

 

o News that Ontario is once again considering privatizing the LCBO Crown corporation responsible for liquor, pales in comparison to the Alberta experience where Albertans are about enjoy the arrival of two new Costco outlets, in Red Deer and Lethbridge, that sell wine. Two more in July and two more in August make the Costco wine outlets count nine. I will not torture you with any discount pricing; it is too painful.

 

o The announcement that the "climats" of Burgundy's historic vineyards are seeking to be placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List has to be encouraging to Okanagan producers who only want to establish useful place names to add to their limited repertoire of geographical place names.

 

Specific to Burgundy's patchwork quilt of vineyards, the term "climats" designates each plot or group of plots of vines known to have operated under the same name for several centuries. The application points to "the precise location, soil, sub-soil, exposure, micro-climate and, in particular, the history of these "climats" within the vineyard that form the specific nature and unique personality of a terroir, of a wine, and of their natural and cultural identity. We wish them luck.

 

o Osoyoos-based Black Hills Estate Winery hosted what they billed as the "world's first wine film festival." The event, called The Vinos, attracted 29 submissions from amateurs and professionals alike. The rules were simple: the one- to three-minute-long films had to have something to do with B.C. wine. You can bet on this event growing in the coming years.

 

o Summer is still lurking in the clouds but just in case it breaks out this weekend, I am offering six wines designed to complement the first weekend of summer, possibly around the barbecue. We begin with the bright pink pleasing colour of the JeanJean Syrah Rose 2008 from the Languedoc in the south of France. Look for a fresh, red fruit scented rose with medium spice and plenty of mid-palate dryness to keep you coming back for another sip. Very food-friendly and big enough, if I can use that word, to work with chicken and meaty fish dishes. Super value.

 

Summer and Riesling are a great match so look for the Wynns Coonawarra Estate Riesling 2008 to over deliver. From its petrol, lime rind and mineral aromas to its crisp, dry, slightly austere style Riesling is made for summer sipping. Look for juicy green apple, petrol, lime, slate, spicy, nectarine flavours and consider serving it with smoked salmon or mussels. Only available in private wine stores.

 

Jean Claude Mas blends viognier fruit from cool and warm sites in the south of France using young and old vines cropped at relatively low yields and the result is Paul Mas Viognier 2008. Look for a fresh aromatic floral nose that mixes nectarines and dried fruits. On the palate, peach and honey mix effortlessly with a creamy lees character. Very serious value here. A small percentage is barrel fermented in new oak but the bulk is aged only in stainless steel tanks to retain maximum freshness and finesse. A versatile food wine.

 

The Cono Sur Organic Chardonnay 2009 from the Valle de San Antonio is an organic, un-oaked chardonnay under screw cap that is ridiculously tasty for the price. Look for gooseberry, and spicy aromas. The entry is fresh, crisp and just off dry with nettle, lemon, grapefruit, gooseberry, passion fruit flavours and a touch of grass. Love the juicy mineral, green guava finish. Buy this one buy the truckload.

 

Because summer involves grilling meat and not every wine can be cheap my final two picks are for the serious red wine drinkers.

 

Quinta do Crasto Douro Vinho 2008 is the Roquette family's calling card and what an announcement. Located just south of Pinhão on the north side of the Douro the blend is a classic mix of tinta roriz, tinta barroca, touriga franca and touriga nacional all co-fermented. Typically, the nose is fragrant reflecting the minerality from its schist -based soils and bits of black fruits. On the palate, it attacks with peppery, black plum fruit, bits of cocoa powder and figgy Christmas pudding. Fine intensity yet only 13.5 per cent alcohol.

 

You can drink it now with a big steak or cellar it for a decade. Value with a capital V. Similar but different is the fabulous De Angeles Malbec 2007 from the Vistalba District in Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza. So rich, ripe and round its supple palate precedes a deliciously smoky, resin, black cherry, plum jam and licorice flavour flecked with savoury, spicy, peppery, mocha, cedar, black olive flavours. It has fine finesse and intensity but will easily melt into grilled T-bone steak.

 

 


JeanJean Syrah Rose 2008, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France

Price: $12

UPC: 003186122149937

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Food-friendly. Serve with chicken and meaty fish dishes. Super value.

 

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Riesling 2008, Coonawarra, South Australia

Price: $15 private wine stores only

UPC: 012354052109

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Fresh, austere Riesling style best with smoked salmon or mussels.

 

Paul Mas Viognier 2008, l'Hérault, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France

Price: $14

UPC: 3760040420127

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Very serious value here.

 

Cono Sur Organic Chardonnay 2009, Valle de San Antonio, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

Price: $14.50

UPC: 7804320242699

Score: 89/100

Remarks: New, organic, un-oaked chardonnay under screw cap that is ridiculously tasty.

 

Quinta do Crasto Douro Vinho 2008, Douro Valley, Northern Portugal

Price: $20

UPC: 05604123002092

Score: 90/100

Remarks: The Crasto Douro red is the Roquette family's calling card.

 

De Angeles Malbec 2007, Vistalba District, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $27

UPC: 814861010012

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Impressive savoury, peppery, spicy, floral, black cherry aromas and flavours.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.