Sub-District Wine

The South Okanagan Wineries Association describes itself as a non-profit group representing the geographical wine region beginning at McIntyre Bluff and running south to the border at Osoyoos with a mission "to develop and expand the grape and wine industry in Oliver and Osoyoos through education and promotion."

In fact, the majority of wineries and growers are on a mission to launch the first Okanagan Valley sub-appellation although rumour has it Naramata Bench producers are busy hoping to accomplish a similar goal along the same timeline.

In the New World, carving out sub-districts from larger regional appellations and placing those names on labels has been painfully slow in arriving. Most of the delay can be directed at the same people who have obfuscated the use of screw caps. I'm talking about that 45- to 55-year-old marketing manager who still believes winemaker dinners, without winemakers attending, is the best way to sell wine.

Their rallying cry goes something like this: Sub-appellations, they say, will only confuse consumers who can barely place the Okanagan Valley on a map. Maybe, but isn't that why we all have smartphones and GPS devices that take us to the exact location we seek? My GPS not only tells me where I am but what elevation I'm at. When I'm downtown I could care less about that information, but when I'm in the South Okanagan I pay attention because it improves my knowledge of the region. The point is, once you have the correct information you can take what you need, when you need it. And should you choose to ignore it, somehow over time that same information seeps into your personal wine databank without you even knowing it. Think about it -- wine information by osmosis.

Drilling down, as we say, to the full appellation is not only satisfying, it is truthful and likely the best reason for paying $25 to $50 a bottle.

Concise geographical authenticity also addresses the somewhat nebulous nature of large regional appellation monikers such as California, Mendoza, South Australia and Bordeaux. Despite their fame the size of the appellation is far too large to convey any meaningful information about the modern wines made there.

Let's look at the South Okanagan in a simple geographical way. At the broadest level it is "Okanagan Valley" wine. Any grapes grown south of McIntyre Bluff should be able to bear the moniker South Okanagan Valley. After that it makes sense to identify at least four major benches as true sub-districts: Golden Mile Bench, Black Sage Bench, Osoyoos Bench and the massive Vincor plantings on native land south of Black Sage.

We do not require any quality assurances. All we need are well-defined boundaries and an audit trail, certified by an independent inspector, that leads back to the vineyard. Let's not complicate it; let's simply get on with it.

Winemaker Sandra Oldfield has hit all the right notes with her Tinhorn Creek Pinot Gris 2009, producing a much fresher, much cleaner version of this grape that is really excelling under screw cap. Lemons, apples and honey with a subtle herbal edge -- it is all you can ask for at $17. The fruit is 50/50 Black Sage Bench and Golden Mile Bench. Love the winery food picks: Thai curries, quesadillas and fish tacos.

Winemaker Randy Picton continues to defy the odds making very solid Nk'Mip Cellars Riesling 2008 in the warm, south Okanagan. The latest is nicely dried out, playing up green apple, peachy, nectarine notes with just a touch of sweetness and minerality in the back end. The perfect summer sipper that will surprise you with the number of dishes it can enliven.

Road 13 Rockpile 2008 is a supple, tasty blend of red fruit grown in the South Okanagan. In all, 13 vineyard blocks contributed eight varieties of grapes to the blend from both Black Sage Bench and Golden Mile Bench. Look for a cedar-y dried herb aroma and a similar spicy, savoury, cedar-y black fruit palate flecked with dried herbs. Drinkable now but should improve over the next two years under screw cap.

It's all about minor tweaks at this point for Osoyoos Larose 2007. This is the best OL by any measure led by the softest, yet substantial amount, of tannins now bordering on elegant. The nose is a mix of smoky coffee, black cherry and olive aromas. The entry is dry, but with density and richness that will need five years to fully develop. The finish is long with bits of dark chocolate and that South Okanagan savoury thread. Real finesse here that sets a new level on the bar for all the wannabe icons. Best of all price and quality are in equilibrium.

Fork in the Road Oliver Block 212 mixes Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Semillon and opens with floral, spicy, ginger, melon notes. On the palate the flavours are similar with green apple, melon, orange and grapefruit flavours flecked with ginger and mineral. A fresh, fruity style that works as an aperitif or with pan-Asian food.

Finally, I'm always surprised how good local Gamay can be, yet as a varietal it has little street cred that likely points back at its French forefather Beaujolais. The Twisted Tree Gamay Noir 2008 is a tasty sweetish, smoky, spicy, black cherry fruit and leather followed by soft, supple tannins and some sweet vanilla notes. A baby Pinot Noir in search of a single fantasy name to improve its image. Grown on the yet to be approved "East Bench" appellation in Osoyoos.

Tinhorn Creek Pinot Gris 2009, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price      $17

UPC       624802981024

Score     89/100

Remarks              Lemons, apples and honey with a subtle herbal edge.

Nk'Mip Cellars Riesling 2008, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price      $17

UPC       836909010532

Score     87/100

Remarks              Green apple, peachy, nectarine notes with just a touch of sweetness.

Wine Road 13 Rockpile 2008, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price      $25

UPC       626990081388

Score     87/100

Remarks              Drinkable now but will improve over the next two years under screwcap.

Osoyoos Larose 2007, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price      $40

UPC       871610001554

Score 92/100

Remarks              Price and quality are in equilibrium.

Wine     Fork in the Road Oliver Block 212 White 2008, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price      $18

UPC       776545997098

Score     87/100

Remarks              A simple, fresh, fruity style.

Twisted Tree Gamay Noir 2008, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Price      $21, private wine stores

UPC       626990091806

Score     87/100

Remarks              Smoky, spicy, black cherry fruit and supple tannins.