Steen Means Chenin Blanc

It was likely referred to as Chenere before it was renamed Chenin Blanc, after Mont Chenin in the Touraine region of the Loire in the 15th century.

The industrious Jan Van Riebeeck planted the first vines to the Cape in 1655 and early documents refer to three varieties: Groendruif (Semillon), Fransdruif and Steen. From those days Steen was thought to be of Germanic origin but some 400 years later in the early 1960s researchers at the University of Stellenbosch matched Steen and Chenin Blanc leaves and finally pronounced Steen to be Chenin Blanc.

The Steen moniker never really caught on in export markets and most modern South African stern is labelled Chenin Blanc.

Chenin Blanc is extremely versatile. My first encounter with Chenin Blanc was with the world famous Nederburg Edelkeur botrytised dessert wine from South Africa, an amazing, sweet, expression of the grape. Since then, I have explored numerous styles, mostly dry, with numerous foods and can only marvel at the grape's versatility.

France may be the historic home of Chenin Blanc but you find it growing around the world today. It's a key part of South Africa's white wine production and easily the best grape they produce. Across the New World, the grape is transitioning from an ordinary "sweet" blender to something far more interesting that in many ways reflects the growing experience of winemaking worldwide.

This week, we look at labels from South Africa and France. All work well with the likes of fish and chicken, curries and other Pan Asian dishes and they can be equally suited to vegetarian dishes. For cheese lovers, aged Chenin Blanc is great match for brie and or Camembert.

We begin with Ken Forrester Petit Chenin Blanc 2010. We just love the drinkability of this wine. Fresh and clean, not too aggressive in acidity, dry with just the right amount of crunchy apple/ quince fruit and all in a pleasing, food-friendly style. A lovely introductory statement that you can confidently buy by the case. Fine match for local shellfish and a much needed addition to the South African portfolio bringing value and quality to the lineup.

Back to France for the Saumur Lieu-dit Les Pouches 2010, a label that continues to impress with its floral, grassy, green apple, almond notes. The attack is fresh and nervous with a strong, citrus, nettle, fig, mineral flavour flecked with honey, lime and mint - all with a touch of chalky minerality throughout the finish. Should be a hit in seafood restaurants, especially with oysters or clams. Good value, and need we say, much brighter and fresher under its first screw cap vintage.

Last time out I was singing the praises of Obikwa Chenin Blanc 2009, as in how can they get it on the shelf in Canada for $9, it is the same story this year plus $1. Fresh, dry, fruity and clean, it is all you can ask for in an aperitif-style white for service on the patio. Why do they bother making nasty, cheap red in South Africa when they can crank out white wine at this price and quality?

Moving to a completely different level, The Land of Hope Chenin Blanc 2009 hails from Stellenbosch. The wine stems from old bush vines grown in the Helderberg area. The site faces the Indian Ocean and through the magic of wine you can taste the minerality/ salinity in the wine along with a fresh, flinty leesy, Burgundian feel of this Chenin. It is perfect with grilled salmon. Owner Alex Dale is an impressive wine grower working in South Africa. So when he says the Land of Hope Trust project, launched in 2007, was initiated against the background of many "smoke and mirrors" projects purporting to uplift Previously Disadvantaged Individuals (PDI) we believe him. In this case, the direct and sole beneficiaries of this Trust are the previously disadvantaged individual employees of Winery of Good Hope and their children and dependents.

This is my second encounter Bellingham The Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2010, a delicious Chenin made form old, dry farmed, low yielding bush vines and aged in 50 per cent new-French oak. The nose is bright and stylish with rich pear, honey, green apple notes and floral undertones. The attack is crisp but the French oak kicks in mid-palate along with vanilla, butter and baked green apple flavours flecked with honey and orange notes. Best served well chilled with spicy Asian dishes.

The words demi-sec on the label is your clue that this red apple and honey-scented Domaine du Clos du Bourg Chenin Blanc Demi-Sec 2010 is off-dry. The attack is warm and full with big floral, mineral, pear fruit flavours. There is enough acidity to carry the sweet, succulent character. You could easily pair this with spicy curries and other Asian dishes, or be a little more daring and try it with barbecued ribs. Good value.

Ken Forrester Petit Chenin Blanc 2010, Western Cape, South Africa

Price: $16

UPC: 006009607660369

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A fine introductory statement that you can confidently buy by the case.

Saumur Lieu-dit Les Pouches 2010, Saumur, Loire, France

Price: $18

UPC: 00185961000075

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Good value and just so much brighter and fresher under screw cap.

Obikwa Chenin Blanc 2009, Western Cape, South Africa

Price: $10

UPC: 06001108002921

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Fresh, dry, fruity and clean: all for $10.

The Land of Hope Chenin Blanc 2009, Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa

Price: $26

UPC: 00854954000322

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Perfect with grilled salmon.

Bellingham The Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2010, Coastal Region, South Africa

Price: $25

UPC: 6001506904674

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Baked, green apple flavours flecked with honey and orange notes.

Domaine du Clos du Bourg Chenin Blanc Demi-Sec 2010, Touraine, Loire, France

Price: $16

UPC: 03481730002002

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Pair this with spicy curries, Asian dishes or barbecued ribs. Good value.

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