Spill the Wine - Save That Girl

for making and selling liquor (either by the glass, or bottle) and supervises and enforces the laws regarding liquor service in licensed establishments.

Theoretically, there is a firewall between the LCLB and the province's largest liquor retailer, the BC Liquor Distribution Branch (BCLDB), which regulates the distribution and importation of beverage alcohol in government liquor stores. But let's face it, both have the same boss - the provincial government.

Until the advent of private liquor retailers there didn't appear to be any need to worry about conflicts. But nowadays, it seems whenever innovative private retailers -- who compete directly with BCLDB stores -- begin acting like, well, competitors, the LCLB has an outdated regulation that needs enforcing. A recent row fanning the flames on local wine blogs concerns the highly sophisticated Italian-made Enomatic wine dispensers.

An Enomatic machine is a fully automated, multi-bottle wine dispenser that can serve multiple samples of wine from a single bottle while preserving the integrity or freshness of the bottle for weeks using an integrated inert gas preservation system. It doesn't take much to imagine how useful this could be in a retail environment, where the customer could taste before he or she buys. Especially expensive wine.

Enter the LCLB, whose current laws do not permit self-service sampling, but rather a staff-supervised tasting by an employee with an accredited "Serving It Right" card. The pouring mandate states customers are limited to a maximum total intake of 30 mL, or a single ounce of wine, no matter how many samples are offered. Under current guidelines licensees must destroy the contents of any unfinished sampling bottles at the end of their business day.

My first encounter with an Enomatic machine was years ago at a regional Enoteca (wine store) in Tuscany.

I purchased a card for 10 euros and then was able to sample dozens of different Tuscan wines from multiple appellations; each sample was priced per ounce depending on the wine's value. There were sinks for spitting and dumping your samples in as you made your way around the store. The place was packed with happy tourists and customers. Whatever money was left on my card could be used against any wine purchase.

Should our private retailers fail to convince government regulators that they are responsible citizens who merely want to further the province's growing wine culture, in essence getting the most out of every bottle opened, maybe they should consult with local strip bar owners. In their establishments you can order full glass of beer after full glass of beer in the company of naked women and no one is asking them to empty any unused kegs at the end of the night. Is wine so wicked?

The good news is, our secret tasting facility allows multiple pours and even more spitting. Here's what we liked:

The Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2008 from the Barossa Valley is back in form, so fresh and bright. I love the nectarine skin, baked orange, ginger, honey nose and the off dry, slightly austere palate covered in orange, honey, mango, marmalade flavours. Rich and warm with good fruit, this is a versatile Pan-Asian dinner wine.

From further south the Mud House Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 presents a delicious example of proper New Zealand sauvignon. Look for jalapeno, grapefruit rind, passion fruit aromas with a lemon and nettle streak. Rich, full and creamy, the palate is fresh and elegant with juicy acidity and plenty of passion fruit, gooseberry, smoky jalapeno, asparagus, lime and melon flavours. There is fine intensity and balance with a long finish. Try this with mussels.

The Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer 2008 appears reborn under a screw cap. This is a really tasty example of Gewurztraminer with spicy, lychee, floral, green apple, melon and citrus nose. Juicy and clean, the somewhat sweet entry boasts ripe apple, nectarine skin, lychee and melon rind flavours. Good fruity, juicy style if a bit on the sweet side. Good value and style. Serve with spicy food.

As expected mint, chocolate, cherry and dried herbs mark the nose of the Marques de Casa Concha Merlot 2007, from Chile. The palate is almost identical with sweet soft round red fruit with a peppery savoury dried herb mid-palate and chocolate/cherry cinnamon finish. It has fine length and gloss and is a riper, cleaner version than we have seen in years. Very attractive and ready to drink. Love the value here.

Pascual Toso Malbec Reserve Barrancas Vineyards 2008 is a big step up from the regular estate version. Look for a ripe, round, supple and suave palate with black cherry jam, licorice, vanilla and savoury plummy, chocolate finish. Great textures and balance for the price.

Cobos Bramare Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 is tightly wound with rich muscular fruit and power throughout its considerable length. Plums, chocolate and spice mark the palate, while soft grainy tannins mark the finish. Cellar this one for another three years and then get out the steaks.

Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2008, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia

Price      $18

UPC       9311789475974

Score    88/100

Remarks              Back to solid form along with a very smart looking new package.

Mud House Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009,

Price      $20

UPC       9421018070013

Score    90/100

Remarks              Delicious example of Kiwi sauvignon.

Pierre Sparr Gewürztraminer 2008, Alsace, France

Price      $21

UPC       003263530020802

Score    88/100

Remarks              Reborn under screwcap this is a delicious example of gewürztraminer.

Marques de Casa Concha Merlot 2007, Puemo, Valle del Cachapoal, Valle del Rapel, Chile

Price      $20

UPC       07804320253480

Score    89/100

Remarks              Very attractive and ready to drink. Perfect for roast beef. Love the value here.

Pascual Toso Malbec Reserve Barrancas Vineyards 2008, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina

Price      $20

UPC       718742001918

Score    89/100

Remarks              Great textures and balance. Fine value in a very sexy, glossy red.

Cobos Bramare Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

Price      $43

UPC       812884010118

Score    92/100

Remarks              Cellar this one for another five years and then get out the steaks.