Speculative Wine Market

I must admit the latter were far more interesting as they talked about their wineries and wines reminding anyone who may have failed to notice they are now an equal force in the modern-day wine business, a business that is all too casually referred to as male dominated by the uninformed.

Of note none of today's picks are sold in government grog shops but rather only in private wine shops, and even then only in those stores that specialise in wine. They are what are commonly referred to in the trade as "spec wines," short for speculative listing.

Spec wines are wines the government refuses to sell in its stores for many reasons. Among the more popular reasons cited include: the buyers don't like them, or they don't like the price, or they do not have room on the shelves, or they were in the stores and didn't make quota. Many spec wines are so in demand by restaurants and private wine shops they aren't even offered to the government to sell.

Speculative wines still have to come through the monopoly order system to ensure all taxes are collected and accounted for before they can be sold direct to private retailers and restaurants. Restaurants and retailers like spec wines because they are usually new and different and most importantly, because the prices are not public knowledge. That means they can run up the price if they so choose and often they do. So buyer beware. Now onto the women and their wines.

Kelly Brown is in charge of global sales at Domaine Carneros owned by French champagne producers Taittinger. Domaine Carneros Le Rêve Carneros Sparkling 2000 is Champagne's Claude Taittinger's dream or Rêve, premium blanc de blancs. This is one classy bubble made only with chardonnay. The styling is elegant and restrained with creamy textures and more pear/apricot, nutty bread dough flavours. The finish is balanced with shows fine finesse.

Michel Jordan keeps the boys in-line at Shaw and Smith and speaks as confidently and as knowledgably as anyone I've heard in the business. The Shaw and Smith Chardonnay M3 Vineyard 2004, takes it name from the three partners in the vineyard: brothers Michael and Matthew Hill Smith along with cousin and winemaker Martin Shaw. The latest M3 is the fourth vintage to shift away from the traditional, overblown Oz style chardonnay to a more Burgundian demeanour. Look for a mix of spicy lees, vanilla, mineral and citrus aromas with a green apple/nectarine skin, creamy vanilla, spicy, honey, and nutty finish. A tight, restrained, food-friendly chardonnay.

Mariela Molinari manages the vineyards of Nicolas Catena in Argentina and she presented the Catena Malbec 2004. Less new oak, several different clones and different vineyards bring much sophistication for the price. The nose is savoury and inviting; the fruit a mix of licorice and chocolate and black cherry with flecks of orange and more savoury garrigue notes. Ready to drink but will easily age in bottle through 2012.

Michele Jordan also dispenses her skills for the folks at Mitolo and she chose to present the blockbuster Mitolo Savitar Shiraz 2003. Savitar comes from a vineyard of 20 year old vines in the Willunga District of southern McLaren Vale, about 35 miles south of Adelaide. Smooth and supple it is as opulent as ever on the palate with chocolate coffee, cardamom flavours. It's a bit warm and there is that typical acid poking through the back end but it should have wide appeal to those who love their New World shiraz big and fat.

Kim Clothier poured one of her favourite Washington wines L'Ecole No 41 Merlot Seven Hills Vineyard 2003. Seven Hills Vineyard estate merlot is the culmination of 14 years of work in Walla Walla. Super supple and rich the nose mixes spicy, cherry jam, vanilla with peppery leather and flecks of orange and chocolate. It's a drier version of the regular merlot with silky tannins and cool sleek black fruit and cocoa flavours that should work well with food.

Finally Cinzia Merli spoke passionately about Bolgheri and her superstar Tuscan label Le Macchiole Messorio 2002. Le Macchiole Messorio is simply one of the best merlot made in the world and would easily make my top 10 list. The fruit is bright but with a savoury earthy undercurrent, almost a la Mendoza or like a Pomerol, and that makes it fun to drink. They only make 600 cases each year but after almost two years in barrique this rich yet restrained red with supple jammy black stone frit flavours is a delight to drink. Perfect acidity makes it a candidate to age as well. This is the merlot the film Sideways never new existed.

DOMAINE CARNEROS LE REVE SPARKLING 1999, CARNEROS, CALIFORNIA
Price: $59.95 private wine shops only
UPC: 84692011551
Score: 91/100
Remarks: This is one classy bubble made only with chardonnay.

SHAW AND SMITH CHARDONNAY M3 VINEYARD 2004, ADELAIDE HILLS, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Price: $44.95 private wine shops only
UPC: 9316770010127
Score: 90/100
Remarks: The fourth vintage to shift from traditional Oz style toward Burgundy

CATENA MALBEC 2004, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA
Price: $24.95 private wine shops only
UPC: 089046444030
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Delicious and ready to drink, but will easily age in bottle through 2012.

MITOLO SAVITAR SHIRAZ 2003, MCLAREN VALE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Price: $74 private wine shops only
UPC: 836974000162
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Opulent as ever with chocolate coffee, cardamom flavours.

L'ECOLE NO 41 MERLOT SEVEN HILLS VINEYARD 2003, WALLA WALLA VALLEY, WASH.
Price: $73.45 private wine shops only
UPC: 721354 950017
Score: 90/100
Remarks: A drier version of the regular merlot with cool, sleek, black fruit and cocoa.

LE MACCHIOLE MESSORIO 2002, BOLGHERI, TUSCANY, ITALY
Price: $159 private wine shops only
UPC: N/A
Score: 91/100
Remarks: This is the merlot the characters in the film Sideways never knew existed.