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Last December we tasted close to 300 Argentine wines during a one week stay in Mendoza.
Our visits included morning tastings in the hotel followed by lunch, after noon and dinner meetings and tastings each day.
The short story for Stuart Tobe and I is the continued refinement of terroir-based wine by individual block selection in established areas with important improvements in viticulture. Secondly is the increasing development throughout the Uco Valley in both the youngest and oldest areas. Here there is an emphasis on more single block delineation as well as the technological use of soil mapping with pits, conductivity analysis, vegetative growth analysis and much more. This emphasis allows newer areas like Gualtallary and isolated blocks in the Altamira region to be chosen by individual lot made possible by isolating the soil influences on the resulting fruit. In particular it seems sub-block variation is quite noticeable on the upper slopes with various calcium coated stones, pebbles, sand and silt deposits.
It's not so much gobbledygook as it is conquering the site be it with clones or massal vine selection, the right rootstock linked to the subsoil, trellising or in the case of bush vines no trellising, and of course the proper use of water or not using water at all.
Concrete is on the uptake in wineries as are large wooden vat and larger format barrels. Less wood is finally in and it usually has a very positive affect on the wines. White wines seem to be improving and chardonnay shows big potential although strangely we were shown very few whites to taste. We had to ask to taste them. Torrontés remains, interestingly, well-made but no real improvements in complexity or depth. Cabernet sauvignon, syrah and tannat are showing fine improvements and not surprisingly we saw more and more cabernet franc in the blends.
Here's a short list of the 19 top scoring wines, some of which will never end up in Canada, unless Canadians buyers change their mindset, that only France and Italy make great wines and South America makes fun drinking, affordable wine. Don't believe it.
94 Cheval des Andes 2007 Malbec - Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot
Las Compuertas, Vistalba District, Luján de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina
BC $83.00, AB $75.00, ON $85.00, QC $76.00
Big spicy, cedar, black olive, tobacco, peppery, cassis, black cherry, plum, licorice and garrigue aromas with a touch of vanilla. Ripe, round, dry and concentrated with supple tannins and juicy acidity. Cassis, black cherry, tobacco, cedar, vanilla, chocolate, leather and orange peel flavours with a bit of licorice, menthol and garrigue on the finish. A very well balanced wine with length and finesse to age 4-15 years. A cooler but more refined version compared to that of 2006. The blend is 50/48/2 malbec/cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc-merlot-petit verdot. (AG-ST)
94 Cobos Malbec Marchiori Vineyard 2008
Luján de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina
BC $198.00 estimated CDN retail
Spicy savoury, peppery, black cherry jam, black raspberry, blood orange, coffee, vanilla, cedar, tobacco and licorice aromas. Rich, ripe, round, smooth and juicy with big concentration. Vanilla, Christmas cake, black cherry jam, black pepper, poultry spice, coffee, cedar and tobacco flavours. Very ripe style with a long, round, warm finish. Drinkable now but this will age gracefully through 2020. Steaks anyone? (AG-ST)
94 Finca Flichman Parcela 26 2008
Mendoza, Argentina
US $23.00 srp
A special block of selected clones from a one hectare plot planted in 1998. Very peppery, liquorice, smoky, menthol, black cherry, garrigue, liquorice root, savoury, tobacco, barnyard and leather aromas. Ripe, rich, full, juicy and concentrated with supple grainy tannins. Big black berry jam, peppery, floral, black cherry, vanilla, savoury, mineral flavours with some orange peel and chocolate on the finish. Young and intense, this needs 4-7 years but it's well balanced. (AG-ST)
94 Nicolás Catena Zapata 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon - Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
BC $110.00 speculative listing - Trialto Wine Group, AB $80.00 fine wine boutiques, ON $83.00 Classics Catalogue, QC $75.00 private import
Nicolás Catena Zapata is always a selection of the best cabernet sauvignon and malbec from across the company vineyards. The attack is rich and warm with generous soft tannins pushing in all directions. Look for savoury, dried herbs and black fruit aromas flecked with smoke, olives and caraway notes. Similar palate flavours with blackberry, garrigue and chocolate notes. Catena's super-Argentine red takes its name from Nicolas Catena's mother and also lends its moniker to the company's Mendoza winery. Drink now through 2017 and beyond. (AG-ST)
94 O. Fournier Alpha Crux Malbec 2008
La Consulta, Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina
US $40.00
A five day cold maceration previews another 23 days of skin contact. Expect a peppery, savoury, black cherry jam nose with bits of curry, vanilla, sage, garrigue, barnyard, leather, orange rind and Christmas cake aromas. A sturdy but rich red with ripe tannins, fine acidity and excellent intensity. The finish is long and concentrated with good finesse and aromatics. A fine example serious malbec that will improve for another five to ten years in bottle. (AG-ST)
94 Terrazas de los Andes Las Compuertas 1929 Malbec 2008
Las Compuertas, Vistalba District, Luján de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina
BC $100.00 estimated retail
A special selection of a single portion of a vineyard from old vines that offers a microscopic look at malbec expression in Las Compuertas. Big floral, spicy, black berry, black cherry jam, liquorice, savoury garrigue nose. Intense, concentrated full but supple palate. Black cherry jam, black liquorice, peppery, orange, savoury, garrigue flavours. Big bones, very warm but good balance. Needs ten years. (AG-ST)
94 Zuccardi Aluvional 2008
La Consulta, Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina
BC $85.00 estimated retail
Zuccardi is launching a new Malbec called Aluvional which will be released in the next six months. It is from the sub-region of La Consulta, 130 km south of Mendoza city and has grapes from several alluvial soil plots and it is impressive. Look for a spicy floral, vanilla, barnyard, plum, leather nose with meaty, chocolate, poultry spice, violet and liquorice aromas. There is fine complexity in what is a rich, round, dry, smooth red with firm tannins and fresh acidity. The flavours mix plum, black pepper, coffee, vanilla, earth, violet, cherry jam and smoky, gamey, spicy herb flavours. Very good extract but it's youthful and fresh and needs at least three to five years to develop in bottle. Definitely a new level of achievement for the Zuccardis. (AG-ST)
93 Diamandes de Uco Gran Reserva 2007 Malbec - Cabernet Sauvignon
Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina
BC $51.00 Everything Wine, MB $42.60, NF $43.00
Big plum jam, black cherry, celery salt, licorice, vanilla, orange peel, tobacco, smoky, floral, leather and barnyard aromas. Ripe, round, full and warm with juicy acidity and lots of concentration. Chocolate, vanilla, peppery, savoury, leather, tobacco, smoky, prune, black cherry and orange peel flavours. Drinkable now but could use 2-4 years more. A bit fatter compared to the upcoming 2008 but first class. (AG-ST)
93 Fabre Montmayou Grand Vin 2008 Malbec - Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot
Vistalba District, Luján de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina
AB $52.00
From a vineyard planted in 1908. Huge black cherry jam, plum, liquorice, vanilla, peppery, savoury, tobacco, leather, tapenade and cassis flavours. Rich, full, round, warm and juicy intense palate with soft tannins and elegance. Spicy, clove, savoury, and poultry spice, black cherry jam, black berry, chocolate, vanilla, tobacco, peppery, liquorice, floral flavours. Big concentration and ripeness but balanced with lots of tannins to let this age five to ten years. Very fine effort here. Elegance with power. The blend is 85/10/5 malbec/cabernet sauvignon/merlot. (AG-ST)
93 Flechas de los Andes Gran Corte 2009 Malbec - Syrah - Cabernet Franc
Vista Flores, Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina
AB $31.00 private wine shops
Rich smoky, liquorice, savoury, chocolate, barnyard, black berry, black cherry, floral, vanilla aromas. Dry, full, concentrated, smooth and warm palate with fine grained tannins and good acidity. Sage, tobacco, spicy, peppery, tobacco, orange, black cherry, black berry, cedar, roasted pepper, meaty, coffee, vanilla, and savoury flavours. Good finesse and uniqueness in a big wine with the potential to age 5-10 years. Impressive structure and styling. The mix is 60/20/20 malbec, cabernet franc and syrah. (AG-ST)
93 Bodega Lurton Chacayes 2007
Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina
CDN $80.00 estimated retail
Chacayes named after the small jackals that roam the Andean plateaus is the property flagship red. Expect a rich savoury red mixing leather, chocolate, barnyard, cherry jam, and licorice, cedar, tobacco and cherry aromas. Dry, elegant the tannins are firm but with fine acidity and balance. Love the concentration here and the spicy, tobacco, smoky, coffee, vanilla, cherry jam, gamey flavours flecked with orange peel, cranberry, compost, leather, barnyard flavours. Good intensity, if warm, this will need another two to five years in bottle. Roast lamb is the ticket here. (AG-ST)
93 Catena Alta Malbec 2007
Mendoza, Argentina
BC $54.00 specialty listing, AB $55.00 fine wine boutiques, NS $48.00, ON $50.00 Vintages, QC $53.00 private import
The Alta malbec is a blend of fruit from four, separate, high altitude vineyards. What you notice right off is the dense brooding black colour and open aromatic black currant and pepper notes overlaying its liquorice and sweet black fruit flavours. Power with finesse. Drink now with a rib eye steak or cellar through 2018. (AG)
93 Nicolás Catena Zapata 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon - Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
BC $110.00 speculative listing - Trialto Wine Group, AB $80.00 fine wine boutiques, ON $83.00 Classics Catalogue, QC $75.00 private import
Big spicy, tobacco, peppery, black cherry, garrigue, tar, leather, tapenade, orange peel, cassis and barnyard aromas, very aromatic. Round, full, suave palate with grainy tannins a good acidity. Cassis jam, blood orange, vanilla, peppery, tobacco, savoury, five spice, olive flavours. Very good fruit and concentration but needs 4-6 years to fully round out. (AG-ST)
93 Kaiken Mai - The First One 2008
Agrelo District, Luján de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina
CDN $90.00 estimated retail, US $85.00 estimated retail
Big liquorice, savoury, poultry spice, vanilla, black cherry, plum, tobacco and jarilla aromas. Rich, round, full and warm with fresh acidity and supple tannins. Coffee, vanilla, blackberry jam, licorice, Christmas cake, peppery, orange flavours with a tobacco and chocolate finish. Big, intense and warm/alcoholic on the finish but with fine fruit concentration. Needs 3-5 years. The base vines were planted in 1910. (AG-ST)
93 Trapiche Malbec Vina Frederica Villafañe 2008
La Consulta, Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina
BC $45.00 speculative listing - Philippe Dandurand Wines, ON $34.00
Smoky, spicy, black cherry jam, barnyard, peppery, savoury, blood orange and plum aromas. Dry, full, juicy, fresh palate with good concentration and balance with ripe, grainy tannins. Leather, peppery, orange, cherry jam, plum, tobacco, liquorice, vanilla, savoury, floral, spicy, meaty flavours. Good finesse and intensity but young with length. (AG-ST)
93 O. Fournier Alpha Crux Red Blend 2004 Tempranillo - Malbec
La Consulta, Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina
AB $48.00 private wine shops
Open vanilla, chocolate, blackberry jam nose with peppery, meaty, smoky, spicy, tobacco and cedar aromas. Rich, round, concentrated and supple palate with good acidity balance. Black cherry jam, blood orange, chocolate, cherry, tobacco, vanilla, meaty, coffee, Christmas cake flavours. Long, full, warm and supple palate with good finesse. Still youthful but will improve for a few years yet. The A Crux blend is 50/30/20 tempranillo, malbec and merlot. (AG-ST)
93 O. Fournier Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Shiraz - Cabernet Sauvignon
Vista Flores, Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina
AB $69.00 private wine shops
Blueberry, blackberry jam, meaty, barnyard, tobacco, peppery, spicy, vanilla, chocolate, cassis aromas. Big, concentrated, warm, intense palate with some chunky tannin. Chocolate, meaty, peppery, black berry jam, tobacco, barnyard, leather, prune, cassis and smoke flavours. A big, ripe, fruity rustic red that still needs 5 or more years in bottle. (AG-ST)
93 Pascual Toso Magdalena Toso Limited 22 Barrels 2007 Malbec - Cabernet Sauvignon
Maipú, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina
BC $90.00 specialty listing
A very ripe style with spicy, peppery, coffee, tar, leather, liquorice, plum jam, barnyard, meaty, black berry, tapenade, minty aromas. Rich, full, round, supple and concentrated with some suave tannins. Similarly full flavours with added graphite, black plum, poultry spice and cassis flavours. Very good expression but needs 3-5 years. (AG-ST)
93 Terrazas de los Andes 1945 Altamira Malbec 2009
Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina
BC $100.00 estimated retail
Again, a single vineyard parcel of old vines exhibiting more extreme south expression of malbec from a slightly cooler site and soil. Earthy, floral, smoky, blackberry, black cherry, peppery, leather, garrigue, tobacco and vanilla aromas. Dry, full, juicy and intense palate with high tannins but supple. Warm, juicy black cherry, plum, orange, licorice, peppery, mineral, wild game, garrigue and vanilla flavour. Again, huge structure that needs 10 years to come around. (AG-ST)
