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The 2024 National Wine Awards of Canada, which took place this year between June 21 and 25 in Niagara Falls, Ontario, marked a milestone in its 20-year history.
SpearHead Winery in East Kelowna undeniably stole the spotlight, clinching both the Best Performing Small Winery and the Winery of the Year awards. It is the first time a winery has achieved such a feat in the history of the awards. Wine writer Michael Godel, a long-time judge at the awards, noted in his Pinot Noir Report for this year's event, that the winery's performance was an "unprecedented success." The winery's impressive haul included 3 Platinum, 1 Gold, 5 Silver, and 3 Bronze medals. 
Situated in the East Kelowna Slopes, a relatively new sub-GI of the Okanagan Valley, SpearHead Winery is owned by Bill and Marina Knutson and led by GM/winemaker Grant Stanley, a Vancouver-born, New Zealand-trained industry veteran and pinot noir expert. Producing between 5,000 and 8,000 cases annually, SpearHead Winery has never reached the 10,000-case capacity they set when re-building their facility in 2017. "We are very selective about who we work with and we've focused on improving quality rather than going full tilt for quantity," explains Stanley.
Stanley believed they had reached their peak when they won the 2022 Best Performing Small Winery award. He recalls Marina Knutson sending him a note that read, "You've made all our dreams come true." However, just two years later, they surpassed their record. "To be able to kick on from that and reach an even higher level is hugely rewarding," says Stanley.
He expresses that this achievement is gratifying, given the context of recent challenges, including the negative impact of winter frost damage, which has dominated media attention since for the past six months. Stanley humorously notes that just as he was coming to terms with the ongoing media focus on dead vines, this news came as a welcome surprise.
"This is a bit of a David and Goliath story. We're a humble, small producer with a close-knit team. There's no pretentiousness about this business; it is exactly as it appears." Indeed, there are no chandeliers or grand towers to impress visitors in their tasting room or winery. "I want them to be surprised by my wines," adds Stanley.
He also highlights his close relationship with the Knutsons. "As a winemaker, the people who benefit most from these awards are truly the owners. I love my owners, and I've never had such a strong relationship with ownership in my entire career. As a result, I always feel like these awards are gifts I give them." His emotion became evident as he spoke, and tears welled in his eyes.
He also credits a significant part of their success to their wine club, which has been a lifeline during tough times. Wine club members played a crucial role in creating the Club Consensus blend, which won one of the three Platinums. "They collaborated with me on this wine, making it a true team effort. Our members are passionate about our wines and act as ambassadors for our winery. We also give them exclusive access to our wines before anyone else, which is a key element in promoting our brand. It's an excellent way to continue engaging with and supporting our group."
In reflecting on the journey and achievements of the winery, Bill Knutson also shares his thoughts: "With this project, we have been focused on an ambition to create a winery that would become nationally recognized for its premium wine production, particularly in pinot noir. We know this pursuit is never-ending, and improvements are always to be made. Nonetheless, it is very gratifying to periodically feel that we are moving in the right direction. Being named "Winery of the Year" at the 2024 National Wine Awards is an achievement that is a great honour and one that allows us to feel we have had some success in the pursuit of our goal." They have far surpassed their goal of national recognition for premium pinot noir.
Pinot Noir
SpearHead Winery has built its reputation on pinot noir. This year alone, they earned three Platinums, one Gold, and three Silvers exclusively for their pinot offerings. While the winery had a strong focus on pinot noir even before Stanley joined in 2017, his dedication significantly accelerated its evolution, resulting in an exponential improvement in quality.
After completing his college education and an internship in New Zealand's Nelson and Marlborough regions, Stanley moved to Martinborough, a renowned pinot noir region. There, he apprenticed and assisted at Ata Rangi, an iconic winery under the guidance of Clive Paton, where he spent a decade. It was at Ata Rangi that he caught the pinot bug. "That experience opened doors worldwide. Wherever I travel, I'm welcomed into wineries and tasting rooms. I realized that the world of pinot noir was slightly different from the rest of the wine world. It's a smaller community with a strong camaraderie and desire to raise the level of everyone and each region." This, along with his obsessive A-type personality and his love for the grape, has made him into the winemaker he is today.
The Style
As you taste his wines, a distinct theme becomes evident. His pinot noirs are notable for their surprising approachability and multi-layered complexity—key elements that define his unique style. The medals reflect the judges' appreciation and preference for this distinctive approach. He explains the key contributors to his style and how he achieved it.
Tannin Management
Many BC pinot noirs struggle with grippy tannins in their youth. Since joining SpearHead, Stanley has dedicated significant effort to addressing this issue. He has focused on techniques such as shorter fermentation, lower fermentation temperatures, reduced extraction, and extended cold soaks to refine the process. His goal has been to create more elegant and approachable wines at a young age—pinots that can be enjoyed independently without needing food.
Malolactic Fermentation/Conversion
Stanley inoculates for malolactic fermentation/conversion (MLF/MLC) in the spring, a traditional Burgundy method relatively unique in the valley. He believes this approach significantly impacts the wine's development, allowing it to spend time in the cellar during the cold winter months before MLF, with minimal use of SO2. By avoiding sulphur during these early stages, the wines can evolve and harmonize more effectively, resulting in greater complexity upon release. He notes that while many pinots are characterized by pure fruitiness, such as cherry and strawberry, achieving a higher level of pinot noir involves tempering this fresh fruit character. "By integrating other elements with the fruit, the wine gains additional depth and interest."
Clonal Selection
In the world of pinot noir, clones play a crucial role, with their sensitivity and variety significantly impacting the final wine. The evolution and diversity of pinot noir clones contribute to the complexity and quality of the wines. Each clone has unique characteristics, with some thriving in cooler climates and others in warmer conditions, while some are more disease-prone or offer different flavour profiles.
Stanley's careful selection of clones is instrumental in enhancing the complexity of his wines. Here are his top three and why he prefers them: Pommard, the foundation clone for Oregon and Californian pinots, is relatively new to the valley compared to the Dijon clones. He likes the distinctive lightness and freshness of the clone. With its larger berries and higher crop potential for dilution, it must be managed carefully. This contrasts with the Dijon clones, known for their tight bunches of small berries and high sugar content. Among the Dijons, Clone 115—classic and renowned for its intensity and structure—is Stanley's favourite and performs exceptionally well across various regions. Clone 828, which Stanley first imported to the Okanagan in 2008, has proven to be a standout. Originating from the Guillaume Nursery in France, it offers excellent density and power. However, Stanley points out that some Oregon wines labelled as 828 may not be certified and thus don't share the same traits.
2022 Vintage
All three wines that received Platinum medals are from 2022. Ironically, Stanley admits that it is not one of their strongest vintages, noting that his favourites are from 2017, 2019, and 2021. "Seeing 2022 perform so well is both fabulous and very pleasing. It reminds me that in every wine region, the true mark of quality producers is their ability to craft exceptional wines across all vintages despite challenges. When I visit wine regions, I seek out producers who can consistently maintain high quality each year, adjusting to the characteristics of each vintage," explains Stanley.
Winter Frost Damage and Plans
Due to the damage from recent winter frosts and the subsequent replanting of nearly their entire 15-acre vineyard, SpearHead Winery finds it necessary to source grapes elsewhere. Like many other wineries in the valley, they plan to import grapes from Washington and Oregon. However, Stanley assures that this is a temporary measure. The Knutsons and Stanley are committed to returning to producing BC VQA wines exclusively as soon as possible. "This is our way of navigating through these challenges. The new definition of a sustainable winery is one that remains in business," says Stanley.
What Makes It So Worthwhile?
Grapegrowing and winemaking in this corner of the world have become increasingly challenging due to ongoing wildfires and consecutive winter frosts. Despite these difficulties, Stanley finds the experience deeply rewarding.
"This is my 22nd vintage in the valley, and out of those, I've only had two that were truly heartbreaking, leaving me with 20 exceptional vintages. I know my colleagues worldwide would envy the quality of the fruit I've received during those 20 great years. After over two decades of winemaking here, there's immense gratification in making quality wines, and I've built a legacy of wines that I'm very proud of. I love living here and embracing this lifestyle with my family. I feel grateful for the supportive owners and the enthusiastic team we have. All of this makes it truly worthwhile."
Here are the wines that received medals, followed by my reviews of some of them:
SpearHead 2022 Pommard Clone Pinot Noir - Platinum
SpearHead 2022 Club Consensus Pinot Noir - Platinum
SpearHead 2022 Saddle Block Pinot Noir - Platinum
SpearHead 2021 Golden Retreat Pinot Noir - Gold
SpearHead 2021 Club Consensus Pinot Noir - Silver
SpearHead 2022 Braided Hill Pinot Noir - Silver
SpearHead 2022 Chardonnay Clone 95 - Silver
SpearHead 2022 Pinot Gris Golden Retreat Vineyard - Silver
SpearHead 2021 Cuvée Pinot Noir - Silver
SpearHead 2023 Gamay Rosé - Bronze
SpearHead 2022 Riesling - Bronze
SpearHead 2021 Saddle Block Pinot Noir Unfiltered - Bronze
