Sparkling Picks for the Holidays

Why we are so reticent to reach for a glass of bubble remains a mystery.

I've often thought that spending one week in Barcelona would be enough to convince any doubters that resistance is futile. Once immersed in the late afternoon/early evening ritual of snacking on tapas while sipping on Spain's sparkling jewel cava, you simply cannot go back to reaching for sparkling wine only on special occasions.

Since I am unable to transport you all to Spain, you are going to have to take my word for it and begin building you own culture by investigating the wealth of sparklers sold in British Columbia.

The good news is when it comes to quality, sparkling wine may be the most improved category in the wine business. The best bubble is always fermented twice (the second time inside the bottle), a la the champagne method. And while the French have legally blocked global producers from using the descriptive méthode champenoise moniker that alerts you to the high quality production method responsible, in general, for much better bubble, most producers simply slap on a different synonym on their label such as méthode traditionelle, méthode classique, método classico. The point is, this is the stuff you should be looking for if champagne is not in your budget.

All of today's sparkling selections, save the Prosecco, are made in the champagne method thus ensuring their high quality, tiny-bubbles, and mostly creamy textures.

A blend of middle Rhein and Mosel riesling fruit is at the heart of the impressive and inexpensive Deinhard Lila Riesling Brut Sekt N/V that will delight a wide spectrum of sippers. It is extremely fresh and floral on the nose with green apple, peach, lime and guava aromas and a persistent mousse. On the palate, it is crisp and equally fresh with zippy green apple, juicy lime, peach, slate and petrol flavours. You can serve this with a wide variety of appetizers/finger foods including lox and shrimp. A solid sparkling wine value that offers taste and style at a fair price.

Prosecco is all the rage in Italy, and while many are enjoying it here in B.C., especially in the summer, it can easily make the transition indoors to kick off a Christmas gathering, after all, millions of Italians can't be wrong. The Villa Teresa Prosecco Veneto N/V seems to get cleaner and fresher with each vintage year, although its vintage moniker has given way to a non-vintage designation. The nose is bright and fresh with plenty of green apple fruit and pear-flavoured fruit all with a dusting of almonds and a creamy, orange underbelly. A classic, party wine with an organic twist. Green never tasted so good. Now under a ceramic/metal closure every bottle is guaranteed fresh.

There is no vintage date on the Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava label but the macabeo, parellada, xarello blend is made every year and it seems some blends are simply better than others. The current edition is a very fresh version with bright floral, melon, nutty, lemon, mineral aromas with bits of toasted biscuit on the nose. It's crisp, clean and round (the mousse is tight and creamy) with dried pears, citrus, apple and nutty honey almond flavours. The style is dry, as in cava dry or brut, but it is very flavourful. It represents fine value in a sparkler suited to a variety of foods.

The first time I tasted Codorníu Reserva Raventos Brut in Spain, I wondered why it wasn't available in Canada. After years of waiting and intermittent listings, it appears it is here to stay now and the category is the better for it. Elegant and dry, its delicate palate offers up light sweetness and delicious nutty, mineral, citrus, melon, anise and peach flavours. It has fine intensity and fruit throughout the finish with just a hint of almonds. Classic cava.

Another pleasant surprise this week is the Segura Viudas Aria Estate Brut. At $22, its peachy, nutty, melon, citrus aromas over-deliver. I love the elegance and its smooth mousse in what is a fresh crisp sparkler, with just a hint of sweetness. This is a highly attractive wine with lime, lemon, honey and toasted nutty, mineral flavours. Try this with oven-heated cheese straws.

We complete our list with something different. Ca' del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige is a chardonnay, pinot bianco, pinot néro blend that ranks among the top two or three sparkling wines made in Italy. At $55, its near-champagne price demands quality at all levels and this label delivers. The nose is unique with its smoky, toasted hazelnut, citrus, baked pear and anise aromas. The palate is full, the profile slightly sweet with moderate mousse, the flavours a melange of nutty, buttery, spicy, smoky, baked pear, cooked melon and strawberry. Fine intensity, but with finesse. Disgorged the fall of 2007. It is only available in select private wine shops.

Deinhard Lila Riesling Brut Sekt N/V, Rheinhessen, Germany

Price $13.50

UPC 4003310132115

Score 87/100

Remarks Fine taste and style at a fair price all with excellent riesling character.

Villa Teresa Prosecco Veneto N/V, Veneto, Italy

Price $16

UPC 08007615000694

Score 87/100

Remarks A classic, party sipper with an organic twist. Green never tasted so good.

Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava Macabeo - Parellada - Xarello N/V, Penedès, Catalunya, Spain

Price $15

UPC 033293690009

Score 88/100

Remarks A drier, delicate (brut) style with lots of flavour.

Codorníu Reserva Raventos Brut N/V, Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, Penedès, Catalunya, Spain

Price $20

UPC 08410013990571

Score 88/100

Remarks Fine intensity and fruit with a nutty, slightly bitter citrus rind finish. Fine cava.

Segura Viudas Aria Estate Brut Macabeo - Parellada - Xarello N/V, Penedès, Catalunya, Spain

Price $22

UPC 00033293660002

Score 89/100

Remarks Quite dry, but fresh and crisp with just a hint of sweetness.

Ca' del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige, Lombardy, Italy

Price $55, private wine shops

UPC NA

Score 90/100

Remarks Lots of nutty, buttery, strawberry, toasty flavours.