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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

It's time to start thinking about stashing away some wines for the holidays, especially if you are the one responsible for locating and supplying wines for the party, be it at work or home.

Spain's Reign Is Anything But Plain

The best wines always disappear early and you will find yourself prowling the end-of-the-aisle displays in wine shops, where the quantity almost always outstrips the quality.

So, what are the savvy wine types drinking this season? Given the shifting palate of the Northwest wine drinker, now among the most eclectic sippers on the continent, it's not so easy to decipher.

In a general sense, white wine is making a comeback, especially among the early adopters, but this time around it's not chardonnay but rather sauvignon blanc, riesling, albariño and even grüner veltliner that are making inroads.

Cool-climate, crisp, fresh chardonnay is welcomed and screwcaps are no longer an issue. In fact, my observation is the screwcap wines will disappear first at most gatherings because they are just so easy to open. It's no longer about the cork issue; it's all about ease of access.

Pinot noir and syrah/shiraz are the runaway red varietal choices, while food-friendly versatile blends containing grenache, syrah, mourvèdre and merlot are also being widely enjoyed.

In the next few weeks we will look at grapes, styles and appellations and hopefully help you work your way through the entertaining season, the big holiday dinners and New Year's Eve. By my count, that's eight weeks of timely picks, so make sure your newspaper subscription doesn't expire any time soon.

Today we begin with Spain, currently on a hot streak with diners. I recently met with the folks from Pares Baltà and was knocked out by the latest Pares Baltà Cava Brut, a blend of macabeo, xarello and parellada from Penedès. At just under $20, it packs a lot of toasty, nutty, creamy, apple skin aromas and flavours into an elegant style bubble with a fine creamy mousse. Love the creamy, nutty, mineral, floral flavours in quite a sophisticated wine made for food. It's good value, but it's only sold in selected private wine shops.

One of the best white wines from Spain in our market is the Burgans Albariño Rías Baixas 2005 from Galicia. This wine was a star at Whistler's Cornucopia tastings last weekend with its big floral, mineral, honey, nectarine, melon fruit nose and its crisp, juicy, green apple, honeyed peach flavours. The finish is equally fresh and juicy with a slightly creamy texture. I suspect this will work with a variety of seafood and white meat dishes.

A perennial favourite is the Castaño Monastrell 2005 from the Valencia and Murcia region. This is the ripest, maybe the sweetest Castaño Monastrell yet from the sub-region of Yecla. The nose is reminiscent of cherry jam, the textures smooth and supple with heaps of black cherry, chocolate and peppery licorice flavours. There is just a hint of acidity showing through the finish. Almost a bit Yellowtail-like in style but quite a bargain at less than $10.

The Gos Monastrell 2005 hails from the Jumilla region of Valencia and Murcia in south-eastern, Spain. The '05 is more or less a carbon copy of last year, if slightly warmer. You will love the round, supple textures and the rich black cherry, peppery, licorice, garrigue flavours. The finish is warm and dry with a bit of floral minerality and some acidity showing through. Fine intensity and weight for the money. A very savvy buy at $12.99.

Vinos Sin Ley Zestos Especial 2004, a tempranillo/syrah blend, won't win any awards for an ease-of-use name, but its green label makes it easy to spot on shelves. Look for big cherry jam notes with spicy, smoky, plum, licorice aromas and earthy, spicy, confectionary flavours. There is fine fruit intensity with a fresh acid finish and just a hint of residual sugar. It is an attractive fruity style that still works with food.

Finally, the Ludovicus Terra Alta 2005, a garnacha/tempranillo/syrah blend, takes it another notch up. Look for roasted, mineral, peppery, licorice, cherry plum, sausage aromas and flavours in a round, dry red with slightly grippy tannins. Fine intensity again, if a bit warm and acidic, but it's merely calling for some jamon.

Let the partying begin, or at least put some of these away in preparation for the festivities.


NOT SO PLAIN SPAIN

PARES BALTA CAVA BRUT N/V, PENEDES, CATALUNYA
Price: $19.80 (private wine shops)
UPC: 8410439034354
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Made for current drinking with food. Good value bubble.

BURGANS ALBARINO RIAS BAIXAS 2005, RIAS BAIXAS, GALICIA
Price: $20
UPC: 8414825336749
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Fresh, dry and crisp with juicy apple, honey, mineral, melon peach flavours.

CASTANO MONASTRELL 2005, YECLA, VALENCIA AND MURCIA
Price: $9.99
UPC: 8422443001208
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Heaps of black cherry, chocolate and peppery licorice fruit.

GOS MONASTRELL 2005, JUMILLA, VALENCIA AND MURCIA
Price: $12.99
UPC: 8437005068056
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Rich black cherry, peppery, licorice, savoury flavours. A savvy buy.

VINOS SIN LEY ZESTOS ESPECIAL 2004, VINOS DE MADRID, CASTILLA-LA MANCHA
Price: $15.99
UPC: 8420675328131
Score: 87/100
Remarks: An attractive fruity style of 85/25 syrah cabernet that works with food.

LUDOVICUS TERRA ALTA 2005, TERRA ALTA, CATALUNYA
Price: $22.99
UPC: 899208000147
Score: 88/100
Remarks: A solid red blend of garnacha, tempranillo, syrah and cabernet sauvignon.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.