Spain, Tapas and Wine for the 00s

I've always been amazed by the ability of Spain to reinvent itself every few kilometres, as evidenced by its changing food and wine as you travel from region to region and sometimes even from town to town.

There is perhaps no better illustration of this versatility than in the ever-changing Spanish tapa. We have only recently come to know small plates in Vancouver, albeit well ahead of most of the continent, but Spain has been making the tiny delectable taste treats for centuries.

The tradition began when a Spanish bartender placed a piece of bread atop their customer's drink to thwart the fruit flies. It wasn't long before they were spicing up the bread with jamon and queso and the tapa (literally translated as the lid) was born.

Every corner of Spain has its specialties, but it's the local ingredients that shine -- olives, cheese, ham, tomatoes, red peppers, prawns, pork, lamb and much more.

Locals sip and bite most days in towns like Logrono, the capital of Rioja, where you can wander the old city all night jumping from one tapas bar to the next. Interestingly, each boasts an ancient sign out front with a simple drawing of a prawn or a mushroom, touting the flagship tapa of the bar.

Now that I have your interest, why not consider getting some friends together and holding your own tapas party? If you are too busy to prepare the tapas, simply have your guests bring some suitable ingredients and let everyone build their own.

Once you've sorted out the food, here's some wine picks that will keep the party going long into the night, Spanish style.

Berberana Dragon Tempranillo 2002 is an everyday red with smoky, spicy, black cherry jam aromas and similar flavours. The entry is dry, soft and round, the textures lean and a bit resiny. Perfect for tapas, pork ribs or beef smokies grilled on the barbecue.

With a name like Pago Malarina Vallobera 2002, you might expect its old-style nose with its gamy black fruit tones and rootsy, earthy forest floor notes. That said, the entry is fresh, the textures firm and there is plenty of acidity to balance out the fruit. It's a stylish if simple Rioja Alavesa made for food. Our menu suggestion: roast pork or lamb.

Marques de Riscal has taken its Riojan tempranillo knowledge to selected vineyards within the vast Castilla y Leon region and the results are an impressive and inexpensive Riscal Tempranillo 2002. The nose is fresh with ripe berry fruit aromas of raspberries and cherries. The palate mixes fragrant, earthy, fruit tones with smoky spicy, black fruit and vanilla flavours with just a touch of heat in the finish. Grilled lamb chops will do here.

Finca Antigua Tempranillo 2002 is a new project in La Mancha for another Rioja-based producer, Martinez-Bujanda. This is fruity tempranillo with a touch of warmth and a dusting of vanilla and spicy earth. The structure is medium-bodied with a touch of dryness in the finish. Break out the cheese, olives and tapas and have a party.

The Jumilla wine-growing region is a large area in south-eastern Spain and home to Casa de la Ermita Jumilla (Purple Capsule). The blend is a hefty mix of mourvedre, merlot, tempranillo, syrah and cabernet sauvignon that is not only tasty but inexplicably $4 less per bottle this year. Look for a robust, chewy red with earthy cooked fruit flavours, rich grainy tannins and a warm spicy, baked cherry fruit finish. Well done.

Perhaps the best of the bunch is the Artazuri Navarra 2002 that's made from 100-per-cent, 75-year-old garnacha vines. Look for a full-blown white pepper, black raspberry (grenache) nose with smoky, licorice and garrigue. Elegant and smooth with fine peppery, cardamom, gamy, minty black raspberry fruit flavours. A bit hot on the finish but great fruit and ready to roll. Well made and fresh.

Spanish wines to suit an ever-changing and varied cuisine
 
Berberana Dragon Tempranillo 2002, Castilla-Leon
Price: $11.80
UPC: 8410396780219
Score: 84/100
Remarks: Spicy, dry red made for the barbeque.

Pago Malarina Vallobera 2002, Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
Price: $19.99
UPC: 674974000184
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Stylish straight-up Rioja Alavesa.

Riscal Tempranillo 2002, Castilla-Leon
Price: $16.95
UPC: 8410866430477
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Fragrant, earthy, fruit tones with smoky black fruit.Finca Antigua Tempranillo 2002, La Mancha,
Castilla-La Mancha
Price: $16.99
UPC: 8437003444210
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Fruity tempranillo with a dusting of vanilla and earth.

Casa de la Ermita Jumilla (Purple Capsule) 2003, Jumilla
Price: $18.90
UPC: 8435053342036
Score: 87/100
Remarks: A tasty mix of mourvedre, merlot, tempranillo, syrah and cabernet sauvignon.

Artazuri Navarra 2002, Navarra and Basque Country
Price: $16.95
UPC: 8411976110020
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Elegant peppery, cardamom, black raspberry fruit.