Spain Makes Its Move

Not that it's causing a head-long rush in wine shops, like Australia, but it's a steady movement. Maybe it's the small producers, the non-conformity, the plethora of grapes, the diverse regions or the seldom recognized naturally, low-yielding vines that simply won't overproduce.

Then again, it could be the label designs, the bright colours, the modern art, and the lack of animals. Maybe it's just because they taste so good with food. Perhaps it has something to do with tapas and the fact that we have embraced small plates all over the city. I mean you put the dots together.

All I know is that a year or so ago Spain was relegated to what I refer to as the purgatory section of the Park Royal specialty store, a short north-facing wall across from the beer section that looks into the back of store. It has since been relocated to a larger space; you be the judge.

I guess what I like most about Spanish wine at the moment, is the value for money it delivers at many price points and the Castillo de Monseran Old Vine Garnacha 2004 is just such a story. Many of you will be familiar with the Monseran Tinto that sells for $9.99 in government stores that is, in fact, quite a bargain. The "Old Vines" a term that has no legitimate meaning, yet in the glass delivers a definite step up in intensity with a spicy, peppery, raspberry aroma flecked with chocolate. On the palate, it is round and supple with exuberant peppery, orange peel, raspberry, spicy, plum flavours. You will love the fruit and balance, but be sure to serve this wine with food, say pork or duck. There's fine value here but, and it's a big but, it's only sold in private wine shops.

Superstar Spanish winemaker Telmo Rodriguez is the man behind Vina 105 Ciento Cinco 2005 an easy-sipping blend of 95 per cent tempranillo with a five per cent dash of garnacha. It's made with organically grown 17-year-old, low-yielding vines set out on stony terraces. Look for a spicy, meaty, animal, cherry scented nose with tobacco notes. This edition is fairly dry and slightly tannic with a warm, chewy palate. Smoky, black cherry, resin, mineral and chocolate flavours make up the profile along with some fine fruit intensity. You could enjoy this now with meat, but it would definitely benefit from a year or two in bottle. Well done.

I revisited the Capcanes Mas Donis Barrica 2002, a grenache syrah from Montsant I first tasted nearly two years ago. This is a mature red with a licorice root, peppery, smoky, black cherry and chocolate nose. The entry is dry and round with some lingering gripp-y tannins. On the palate it is robust with peppery, gamey, black cherry, rootsy flavours and finishes dry and warm. The good news is the price is now $3 less than in 2005. Best with food.

Mad Dogs and Englishman Jumilla Monastrell - Syrah - Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 is a solid mid-week red from the Valencia/Murcia region. It's dry, elegant, and supple on the palate with licorice, black cherry, smoky, resin, menthol, tobacco flavours. There are some light tannins on the finish with a bit of alcohol poking through. Best with food or keep an extra year in bottle.

Famed Rioja producer Marques de Riscal has stepped outside of its native region to produce Riscal Tempranillo 2004 from Castilla-Leon. I would call this a California-style Rioja, or tempranillo, with its big smoky, vanilla, oaky nose spiked with cherry and coffee bean notes. The flavours are similar with more smoky oak vanilla, peppery, cherry jam, rootsy, marmalade flavours. Fruity, but oaky in that slightly rustic country red style. Serve with grilled lamb chops.

We finish with one of those red wines I prefer to recommend on a taste-for-yourself basis, but if you like spicy, strawberry jam, meaty, slightly peppery aromas complete with a soft, round, dry, slightly Euro-style palate then Campo Castillo 2005 is for you. If you keep your expectations reasonable, I'm sure you will find its strawberry, orange peel, peppery flavours and simple, fruity, ready-to-drink style a delight to drink for less than $10.

Finally, congratulations to Marquis Wine Cellars, and the local distributors of Spanish wine for the $5,000 cheque that was turned over to the Downtown Eastside Women's Centre's as a result the second annual Spanish Splash Fundraiser. Giving back to the community is the finest quality of any wine.

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CASTILLO DE MONSERAN OLD VINE GARNACHA 2004, CARINENA, ARAGON
Price: $13.99
UPC: 3378630306223
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Good fruit and balance, but designed for food.

VINA CIENTO CINCO 105 TEMPRANILLO - GARNACHA 2004, CIGALES, CASTILLA-LEON
Price: $17.99
UPC: 08437001566914
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Smoky, black cherry, resin, mineral, floral, chocolate flavours.

CAPCANES MAS DONIS BARRICA GRENACHE - SYRAH 2002, MONTSANT
Price: $16.95
UPC: 8427154011904
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Big peppery, black cherry, prune-flavoured red.

MAD DOGS AND ENGLISHMAN MONASTRELL - SYRAH - CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, JUMILLA
Price: $14.99
UPC: 898854000068
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Licorice, black cherry, smoky, tobacco flavours. Best with food.

RISCAL TEMPRANILLO 2004, CASTILLA-LEON
Price: $16.99
UPC: 8410866430477
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Good fruit, but with a generous hit of oak. Soft round and warm.

CAMPO CASTILLO 2005, CAMPO DE BORJA, ARAGON
Price: $9.99
UPC: 8412423120661
Score: 85/100
Remarks: Simple, fruity, ready to drink and affordable.