Spain, It's Anything But Plain

The numbers are small (so small that the government lumps Portugal's tiny sales in with Spain) but, at just over $11 million with annual growth of 10 to 11 per cent, there is light at the end of the tunnel.

If interest at the restaurant level and among the media means anything, Spain will join Argentina as the country with the must-have wines on restaurant lists next year, and more and more will makes its way home from wine shops.

Also, because the selection is small (the current BCL Product Guide shows nine pages of Oz wines versus three from Spain) there are not a lot of commercial or multi-national brands from Spain that are squeezing the interest out of shopping in the California and Australia sections of most wine shops.

More important are the fresh, savoury flavours of modern Spanish wine. It was not all that long ago that much of Spain's wine fame was tied to regions, such as Rioja and Ribera del Duero, rather than taste, but all that has changed in the '00s.

Spain is exploring itself and, with seven major wine-producing regions and some 55 main denominacions de origen (DOs), the future looks bright. Young rebel winemakers working outside the DO laws in search of the best grapes and the best vineyard locations based on today's research, not yesterday's geography.

Today we continue our march toward the holidays with six more picks (I hope you clipped out the merlot column last week). They have less to do with varietal make-up and are more about flavours and food matching. Any of the following will spice up your holiday gatherings.

The holiday workhorse red has to be Las Rocas de San Alejandro Garnacha 2003, from Calatayud. At $16, you get all the white pepper and raspberry you can handle on the nose and more spicy, peppery, licorice, black raspberry, mineral flavours on the palate. Great for parties but this would be a terrific turkey wine too.

Navarra, north and east of Rioja, is home to the Artadi Artazuri Garnacha 2004. This all garnacha (grenache) red jumps out of the glass with floral, gamey, raspberry chocolate aromas. It's dry, round and supple in the mouth and bursting with raspberry, plum jam, spicy, mineral, peppery flavours. Serving Artadi is a must if you consider yourself near the edge of wine. It's good value too.

Pares Balta Mas Petit Cabernet Sauvignon - Grenache 2002 hails from the cool climes of Penedes. The blend is cabernet sauvignon and grenache (76/24). Look for smoky, black olive, cassis, strawberry jam notes on the nose and spicy, cassis, clove, tobacco, and eucalyptus flavours. An elegant dinner red that would tame a roast chicken or braised beef dish. And it's organically farmed.

Another Artadi pick is the Laderas de El Seque 2004 an 80/10/10 blend of monastrell (mourvedre), syrah and cabernet sauvignon. The vineyards sits at 400 metres elevation in Alicante. That explains the cool, spicy black plums on the nose and the green olive, cassis, meaty, coffee, black plum flavours. A food wine with freshness and complexity.

Las Rocas de San Alejandro Garnacha 2003, Calatayud
Price: $15.95
UPC: 805109270039
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Spicy, licorice, black raspberry, mineral flavours perfect for turkey.

Artadi Artazuri Garnacha 2004, Navarra
Price: $16.95
UPC: 8411976110044
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Raspberry jam in a bottle. Good value.

Pares Balta Mas Petit Cabernet Sauvigno -Grenache 2002, Penedes
Price: $17.95
UPC: 8410439010303
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Smoky, black olive and minty strawberry jam

Artadi Laderas de El Seque (Monastrell-Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon) 2004, Alicante
Price: $19.90
UPC: 8411976112031
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Clean spicy, peppery, green olive, meaty, black cherry flavours.

Onix Classic Carignan-Grenache 2004, Priorat
Price: $21.95
UPC: 8423504000116
Score: 87/100
Remarks: A big, warm rustic red with gamey, mineral and orange peel notes.

Castano Solanera Vinas Viejas Monastrell-Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Yecla
Price: $22.95
UPC: 805109112124
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Rich round, dry red with earthy smoky vanilla flavour