South Africa's Secret Weapon is White

Based on my tastings, it is clear Cape producers could carve out a reasonable piece of market share in this country if they were to get serious about which wines they send to Canada, and our retailers became equally serious about which wines we buy from them.

Knowing what is out there and seeing what is available in our market is depressing to say the least. More important is how these wines shape, or do not shape the image of the modern South African wine industry.

It's been 15 years since the end of apartheid, yet South African wines have made little, if any, inroads in the B.C. market. Could it be that post-apartheid producers confused the British Columbia wine drinker with the British supermarket shopper?

The phenomena of Yellow Tail and critter labels notwithstanding, British Columbia drinkers have shown a great deal more discretion when it comes to buying mediocre, low-cost brands. We may try everything once but if it doesn't deliver in the glass, it does not take long for the word to get out and the label to languish on shelves.

In my estimation, South Africa has the potential to improve the image of its wine internationally by leading with their whites and following with their reds. Shiraz is a viable grape in the Cape and surprisingly, so is merlot but it's sauvignon and chenin blanc that will lead the charge along with some exciting new blends.

In short, it is the names you won't find in government stores (and if you do, it is usually the lowest priced label) that are required to change the reception that South African wine currently gets Canada. If someday you are easily able to find the flagship wines of L'Avenir, Delheim, Kanonkop, Ernie Els, Rust en Vrede, Vergelegen, Morgenster, Flagstone, Mann Vintners, Stark Conde, The Winery of Good Hope, Waterkloof, Paul Cluver, Eben Sadie, Groote Post, Darkling Cellars, Boschendal, Ken Forrester, Kanu, Raats, Springfield, Fairview, Spice Route and -- well you get the point, there is a story to tell.

Until then, South Africa will remain a bit player in British Columbia, which is a shame given what they have to offer and the wealth of smart wine consumers we can offer them.

You can look for today's picks and other "Wines of South Africa" this month in local B.C. Liquor Stores and check out your chance to win an Absolute Spa Pure Package valued at $1,500 or enter online at: http://wosa.co.za/canada/events_view.php?id=1 .

Similar to last year's effort, but even fresher, is the Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2008 now under screwcap. Look for bright, grassy, pink grapefruit notes with a touch of minerality all in a just off dry package. Think spicy dishes. Drink all summer in the heat and enjoy the value. Buy this one by the case.

The Bellingham Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay 2008 is a stylish bottle of white wine that, in a small way, points to the salvation of South Africa's wine making future. Fresh, lively citrus and tropical-fruit flavours with a dollop of pineapple offer the perfect weight and length in a bright, fresh, aromatic-style white wine. The perfect summer sipper for out on the patio, or at the table.

That goes ditto for The Winery of Good Hope Chenin Blanc 2008 made in Stellenbosch. It is old bush vines in the Helderberg area that are behind this delightfully fresh and juicy chenin grown on mineral based, decomposed-granite soils. There is no wood used here, but lees stirring keeps it all interesting. If pears, limes and bright acidity appeal to you for summer this is the wine to drink.

It is hard to ignore the value-packed Robertson Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2008 from the Breede River Valley. A cooler year contributed to the success of this modest white marked by its nose of bright, tropical fruit flavours and a palate of ripe bits of candied pineapple and the cool bits of green apple skin. Balanced, refreshing, juicy and affordable this one really over delivers. Buy it by the case.

In this economy it is easy to recommend a solid $15 wine such as the Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Syrah - Mourvèdre - Viognier 2007. Look for a soft, round, supple palate with smoked meat, lychee, peppery, prune/plum, tobacco flecked with licorice and resin flavours. Rustic, but good value.

We wrap up with the Graham Beck Gamekeeper's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007. When South African red wines are clean and fresh with none of that funky burnt rubber cigarette-ash character, they can be charming and delicious as is the case with this cabernet. Look for plenty of soft, juicy black fruit and fine oak integration and a wonderful supple texture. Drink now or all summer through the barbecue season.

Price: $10

UPC: 06001108004031

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Drink all summer in the heat and enjoy the value.

BELLINGHAM SAUVIGNON BLANC CHARDONNAY 2008, COASTAL REGION, SOUTH AFRICA

Price: $16

UPC: 06001506001984

Score: 88/100

Remarks: The perfect summer sipper on the patio or at the table.

THE WINERY OF GOOD HOPE CHENIN BLANC 2008, STELLENBOSCH, COASTAL REGION, SOUTH AFRICA

Price: $14

UPC: 00854954000216

Score: 88/100

Remarks: If pears, limes and bright acidity appeal, this is a wine to drink.

ROBERTSON WINERY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008, ROBERTSON, BREEDE RIVER

Valley, South Africa

Price: $10

UPC: 746925000977

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Balanced, refreshing, juicy and affordable, this one over-delivers.

BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF THE WOLFTRAP SYRAH - MOURVEDRE - VIOGNIER 2007, WESTERN CAPE, SOUTH AFRICA

Price: $15

UPC: 746925000564

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Soft, supple palate with smoked meat, plum, tobacco flavours.

GRAHAM BECK GAMEKEEPER'S RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007, BREEDE RIVER VALLEY, SOUTH AFRICA

Price: $20

UPC: 699446000257

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Lots of juicy black fruit. Made for the barbecue season.