South Africa - The New Red is White

It's been a long road for some producers who felt that just showing up after the sanctions were finally demolished in 1993 would be enough to put them back on the world wine map.

It appears most now know what it takes to compete globally and many are meeting the challenge. I saw a much more determined industry that is measuring its progress against its international rivals and not the farm across the valley, and the result is a major shift in quality.

As is the case in most of the regions I visit many of their very best wines continue to elude us here in Canada because our restrictive and antiquated import regulations simply can't react quick enough to secure the best wines.

I was surprised to learn during my visit that the Canadian export strategy for many SA producers hinges on the "call for tender" system employed by the LCBO in Ontario, as if getting a listing at rock bottom pricing that won't be on the shelf for another year would actually pave the way for success in Canada.

South Africa needs a new Canadian beachhead for its best wines and that probably means Alberta or at least those provincial jurisdictions with some privatization (British Columbia, Manitoba and Nova Scotia) where Cape producers can get their best stuff to market much quicker. When you taste the fabulous sauvignon blancs, the high quality chenin blanc, the viognier and the Rhone blends you have to ask yourself why these wines are not sold here.

In my estimation South Africa has the potential to improve the image of its wine internationally by leading with their whites and following with their reds. Shiraz is a viable grape in the Cape and surprisingly so does merlot. I must say pinotage remains an enigma. Notwithstanding some excellent individual bottlings there are simply too many uneven examples to judge what good pinotage is and what it should be worth.

In the coming months I hope to report on some of the best wines of the Cape as I track them down in private wine shops and restaurants and hopefully, with some changes, in government stores. What is not on are cheap brands covered in tigers, giraffes, etc.

In the meantime, here's a very short list of what you can try now, while we wait for the category to grow into what it should be and represent the true state of South African wine.

Similar to last year Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2008 demonstrates the possibilities for this variety in SA and it is cheap. Look for bright grassy pink grapefruit notes with a touch of minerality and just off dry. Think spicy dishes. Easy to sip and would be a patio winner for sure. Buy this one by the case.

Pepper, spice and black cherry meaty flavours with a dusting of gamey, smoky, burnt earth notes mark the Robertson Winery Number One Constitution Road Shiraz 2005. The entry is supple but fresh with black berry jam, coffee and spicy in the finish. It needs a year or two extra ageing but you can serve it now with duck or roast lamb.

The Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2007 demonstrates why this grape should be considered special in South Africa. It has all the floral, meaty, peppery notes with a dollop of savoury, black berry fruit all in a round, supple style. Good value.

The Graham Beck Shiraz Viognier 2006 is co-fermented to heighten the spice and floral notes in the front end according to winemaker Pieter Ferreira. It simply makes it more approachable with a nose that mixes smoked meat and white pepper with a barnyard, cigar and an attractive savoury undercurrent. On the palate it is ripe, slightly sweet and warm with smokier, peppery, sausage meat and saddle leather notes. The finish is flecked with liquorice, violets and dried fruit flavours. Ferreira ages his blend in a combination of 30% new French and American oak barrels for 13 months to wrap it up in a New World style.

The Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap 2007 is a fairly delicious Western Cape blend of syrah, mourvèdre and viognier. Typically smoky and meaty with bits of resin, prune and black berry mark the nose. Like most SA syrah the palate is soft, the textures supple with smoked meat, lychee, pepper, plums, tobacco and liquorice. It's a bit rustic but otherwise balanced. Perfect for barbecued meats.

The Graham Beck Gamekeeper's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 demonstrates how charming and delicious SA wines can be when they are clean and fresh with none of that funky burnt rubber / cigarette ash character to detract on the nose. Look for plenty of juicy black fruit and fine oak integration to attract, as does its supple texture all thanks to excellent fruit management and micro-oxygenation. Drink now or all summer through the main barbecue season.

Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Western Cape, South Africa

Price      $10.00

UPC       06001108004031

Score     86/100

Remarks              Bright grassy pink grapefruit notes with a touch of minerality.

Robertson Winery Number One Constitution Road Shiraz 2005, Robertson, Breede River Valley, South Africa

Price      $39.98

UPC       6002039006033

Score     90/100

Remarks              Black berry jam, coffee, peppery, spice, tobacco, floral, plum flavours.

Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2007, Coastal Region, South Africa

Price      $18.00

UP          746925000786

Score     87/100

Remarks              Savoury, black berry aromas with tobacco, smoked meat and cherry jam flavours.

Graham Beck Shiraz - Viognier 2006, Coastal Region, South Africa

Price      $15

UPC       006004867000917

Score     88/100

Remarks              Smoky, resin, peppery, sausage meat mixed with ripe fruit.

Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Syrah - Mourvèdre - Viognier 2007, Western Cape, South Africa

Price      $15.00

UPC       746925000564

Score     87/100

Remarks              Supple palate with smoked meat, lychee, peppery, plum, liquorice flavours.

Graham Beck Gamekeeper's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Robertson, Breede River Valley, South Africa

Price      $20.00

UPC       699446000257

Score     88/100

Remarks              Lots of juicy black fruit and fine oak integration.