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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

The Arts Umbrella and Sonoma County Vintners' presentation of the 2006 Sonoma Wine Affair at the Pan Pacific Hotel on Wednesday is the only stop Sonoma will make in Canada this year.

The year's spotlight -- the event is from 7-9:30 p.m. -- is on premium Sonoma County wines, said to win more awards than any other wine-producing region in the U.S.

In all, 25 vintners will be in attendance including the likes of Chateau St. Jean, Ernest & Julio Gallo Winery, Gloria Ferrer, Kendall-Jackson, Kenwood Vineyards, Ravenswood Winery, Rodney Strong, Sebastiani, Seghesio, Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards and Stonestreet.

I've always been a fan of balance in wine and most Sonoma wines -- be they chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, merlot or pinot noir -- come with a sense of harmony. Sonoma's proximity to the ocean tempers its climate. The cool evenings and early morning fogs really set this region's wine apart from others.

You could taste more than $5,000 worth of wine for a mere $55 this week and, if you throw in a post-tasting sushi stop, you have a night out that's hard to beat.

Guests will be able to bid on silent auction items including two round-trip tickets from Vancouver to San Diego (courtesy of Air Canada), exclusive Sonoma County wines, restaurant gift certificates and several lifestyle packages. All proceeds from tickets and auction items will go to Arts Umbrella.

Tickets can be purchased at www.artsumbrella.com.

For those of you unable to fit the tasting into your schedule you can enjoy a slice of Sonoma County in your local liquor store via any of today's six picks.

Honey, nutty mineral, passion fruit aromas mark the nose of the Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc 2004. This is soft easy sipping sauvignon with a slightly sweet, honeyed entry and delicious ripe apple, pink grapefruit and kiwi flavours. It's well-made, even if it tastes a bit more like chardonnay than sauvignon blanc.

A pair of Russian River pinot noirs both make important statements about quality and value.

The Kenwood pinot noir 2004 has a spicy, smoky cola, cherry, vanilla nose and plenty of soft, round, velvety textures. The fruit is spicy with rootsy, cherry jam, orange rind and forest floor flavours. It's an attractive style for current drinking and good value. Think duck- or mushroom-flavoured dishes.

The Rodney Strong pinot noir 2003 is lovely for $30. Its barnyard, coffee, vanilla nose spiked with rootsy, carrot top and strawberry jam aromas are a delight. Ripe, round, dry and elegant, there is enough acidity to set off the cherry-rhubarb, orange peel, and licorice root, flavours. The finish is warm and intense. It's a slightly tighter style, a la Burgundy, that needs a year or so in bottle, or serve now with turkey or duck.

I'm a huge fan of Sonoma County chardonnay as portrayed by the following trio of labels led by the La Crema chardonnay 2003. The nose boasts a creamy, honey leesy character that leads you into bright apple, weighty juicy fruit flavours. It is hard to believe La Crema can hit such a high standard when it is making some 140,000 cases. This is quintessential, modern Sonoma chardonnay.

Another winery that aims to please with a hedonistic style is Sebastiani. Smoky vanilla and baked apple notes mix with ripe pineapple and spicy honey and citrus melon flavours mark the Sebastiani chardonnay 2003. The style is ripe and generous but with fine acidity. This is attractive chardonnay that is ready to drink.

Winemaker Rick Sayre lives and breathes Sonoma County and it shows in his Rodney Strong chardonnay 2004. You will love its fresh nose streaked with green apple, spicy anise and orange peel vanilla aromas. It is elegant and balanced on the palate with green apple, creamy vanilla, smoky, lime rind, nutty flavours. The finish is juicy and delicate. It's great style for food or just sipping and fine effort and value.


Sonoma Affair

Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc 2004, Sonoma County, California.
Price: $27.99
UPC: 742651121191
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Ripe apple, melon, passion fruit, pink grapefruit and kiwi flavours.

Kenwood Pinot Noir 2004, Russian River, Sonoma County, California.
Price: $23.99
UPC: 010986002813
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Well balanced, attractive style for current drinking and good value.

Rodney Strong Russian River Pinot Noir Estate Vineyards 2003, Russian River.
Price: $29.99
UPC: 087512927957
Score: 88/100
Remarks: A slightly tighter a la Burgundy style needs a year or so or try with turkey or duck. Lovely pinot.

La Crema Chardonnay 2003, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California.
Price: $32.99
UPC: 049331002222
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Quintessential everyday modern Sonoma chardonnay.

Sebastiani Chardonnay 2003, Sonoma County.
Price: $19.95
UPC: 088232002627
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Attractive, riper style from Sonoma. Ready now.

Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2004, Sonoma County, California.
Price: $24.99
UPC: 087512913257
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Elegant, fresh, crisp, balanced. Great style for food or just sipping.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.