Sonoma Under A Fog

Sonoma owes most of its quality and refinement to its geographical position alongside California's cool Pacific coast and the magical fog dance that blankets its vineyards most summer days.

Today some 60,000 acres of grapes, 1,800 winegrape growers and 350 wineries spread across a diverse collection of sites and soils almost all of which are touched by early or mid-morning fog banks drawn across the county via the Petaluma Gap in the south and up the Russian River in the north.

The fog, literally and figuratively, blankets the vineyards protecting them from excessive exposure to heat and sunlight. The cool mornings and evenings are the perfect antidote to warm afternoons because it allows the grapes to retain vital amounts of acid that keeps the resulting wine fresh and balanced.

Yet for some inexplicable reason, Sonoma County is sorely under-represented in government stores. It wasn't always that way, long before the global influx of cheap commercial brands, Sonoma was represented by a parade of famous labels that have long since been bumped from store shelves. The quickest solution may be to drop 20 labels bearing the ubiquitous "California" appellation and replace them with a selection from any of the 13 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) within Sonoma County including the likes of Russian River, Dry Creek, Sonoma Valley, Green Valley, Alexander Valley, Rockpile, Sonoma Coast and-- well, you get the idea, wines that come from somewhere.

In the meantime, a quick tour of Sonoma labels reveals a short list of major grapes that should be easy to explore with the help of government and private wine shops.

Sparkling wine is a Sonoma specialty and most are made with chardonnay and pinot noir. The grapes are picked early, often in August, from the coolest regions of Marin, Green Valley, Sonoma Coast and Carneros. The best represent fine value in sparkling wine.

Under transition is Sonoma sauvignon blanc, going from soft and overripe to dry and crisp. The best sites are planted in Russian River Valley, Chalk Hill and Knights Valley. Pinot noir has made a serious statement and styles vary widely between sites and clones. The grape thrives in the cool areas of Marin, Sonoma Coast, Carneros, Green Valley and the Russian River Valley.

The biggest change may be in the quality of chardonnay. It seems to work well in both warm and cool regions. For the coolest examples look for Marin, Carneros and the Russian River Valley AVAs, while the richer rounder versions can be found in Sonoma Valley, Dry Creek Valley, Chalk Hill, Sonoma Mountain and Alexander Valley.

Merlot gets a bum rap in California, but in the warmest sites, where the fog seldom penetrates, such as the Bennett Valley, Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma Valley, Knights Valley and Sonoma Mountain, this much-abused variety can really rise above its station.

Zinfandel remains a signature Sonoma grape with the best coming out warm sites in the Dry Creek Valley, Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley, Rockpile and Sonoma Valley. In a similar manner, cabernet sauvignon needs the heat of the eastern Sonoma for optimum ripeness, so look for the best to come from prime locations in Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill, Dry Creek Valley, Knights Valley, Sonoma Valley and Sonoma Mountain.

Finally, syrah continues to grow in popularity and the best sites are the warm slopes of the Alexander Valley and Sonoma Valley. Slightly cooler takes (more Rhone-like) can be found growing in the Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley and Carneros.

What follows are six quick looks at some excellent, food-friendly Sonoma labels for Thanksgiving.

You can start any celebration or dinner with a glass of Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut N/V and its rich, crisp, fresh palate and toasty, nutty, cherry, peach, baked apple and citrus flavours. A solid value in sparkling wine.

The Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2007 demonstrates the newer style of Sonoma County chardonnay with its round, elegant palate and creamy, nutty, honey, baked apple, pear skin, guava and citrus flavours. Fresh and flavourful, it would be a perfect with turkey.

Round, rich, full, smooth and warm all describe the Belle Glos Pinot Noir Meiomi Vineyard 2007 with its black cherry, cola, chocolate, orange peel, tobacco and spice flavours. A very New World-style pinot that you can drink now and enjoy with the savoury flavours of roast turkey.

The Seghesio Zinfandel 2007 always over delivers with peppery, licorice, black-cherry jam aromas and flavours with supple, light, chalky tannins and good acidity. For best results,

decant 30 minutes before serving.

Similar to the previous version the Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon Vintner's Reserve 2006, a 52/32/16 blend of Sonoma, Napa and Mendocino fruit, is dry and reserved with flecks of spice, resin and black olives with peppery, blackcurrant fruit. Try this with cheese course.

Finally from the Everything Wine store look for Radio Coteau La Colinas Syrah 2007 from Sonoma Coast. The Las Colinas is a blend of fruit from a selection of vineyards spanning several soil types all in western Sonoma County.

The palate is rich and slightly savoury with red fruits, silky textures with a peppery undercurrent and plenty of acidity. This needs time to fully develop. Should be best in 2015.

Price: $30

UPC: 33293111009

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Nutty, cherry, peach and citrus flavours in an enjoyable sparkler.

Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2007, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price: $25

UPC: 089819055098

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Good flavours and finesse.

Belle Glos Pinot Noir Meiomi Vineyard 2007, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price: $34

UPC: 00855622000231

Score: 88/100

Remarks: New World style pinot for current consumption.

Seghesio Zinfandel 2007, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price: $35

UPC: 00088254758724

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Spicy, black berry, coffee, licorice, black cherry, clove and vanilla flavours.

Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon Vintner's Reserve 2006, California, United States

Price: $24

UPC: 081584013174

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Solid dry, lean peppery, black currant fruit.

Radio Coteau La Colinas Syrah 2007, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price: $90

UPC: N/A

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Savoury with red fruit and silky textures with a peppery undercurrent.