Sonoma Embraces the Basics

It's been a struggle for California's premium producers who have gone back to basics to work their way out of the downturn.

Sonoma County has migrated down the "place matters" road, and along with reinforcing its many AVAs, or approved viti-cultural areas, the vast majority of wineries are beginning to fine tune their vineyards, concentrating on growing the right grapes in the right spots. Many are also revamping their wine-making, dialing back the oak and sugar that can dominate a lot of commercial California offerings.

That said, California remains a very conservative wine culture. Varietal wine still rules and screwcaps are a rare sighting. As noted, there is an evolution of sorts and from what I can see, Sonoma County is leading that brisk walk. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the stars of coastal Sonoma and the latest examples appear to be making that statement with less oak, more acidity and lower alcohol.

It's not a drastic change, in fact it may be too subtle to be noticed right off but the shift is underway and its good news for everyone. Sonoma is fond of calling itself the Provence of California wine country and the emphasis on local, sustainable and organic food production has never been more successful. Just when it looked as if Sono-mans would try to ape the for-mal fine dining of nearby Napa restaurants and food in general, they appear to have taken a turn toward upscale casual style, a food and wine term we know well in Vancouver.

Chef Bruce Riezenman who catered some of the 2012 Sonoma County Wine Week-end and operates Park Avenue Catering has just opened a new Sonoma County restaurant across from Gloria Ferrer Winery called Park 121, Sonoma Caszh. He claims Sonoma Caszh is 1) short for casual, used to describe a state of elegant relaxation and com-fort in Sonoma County, or 2) when something is so deliciously casual that one syllable is enough.

Offering high quality wine in a relaxed setting is a growing trend in wine regions and it makes sense given those who travel to wine country are usually escaping a high stress environment at work. For those of you thinking of visiting Sonoma County in the future, it couldn't be a better time to explore its cool coastal versions of Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs along with Zinfandel and Cabernet that grows east of the fog in the warmer inland areas of both Sonoma Valley and Alexander Valley.

Here are six Sonoma-based wines you can try this weekend.

Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay 2010 continues its electrification with a mix of 60 separate lots of fruit from the Alexander Valley, Russian River Valley and Carne-ros. Using only 25 per cent new French oak helps to reveal the bright orange blossom and baked pear notes that permeate the nose and palate with a pinch of bread dough and citrus, adding complexity to the feeling in your mouth. The textures are creamy, the flavours are fresh and bright and it all screams for food. Halibut with a fruit salsa would be my choice.

Paul Hobbs knows California Chardonnay and the Paul Hobbs Chardonnay 2010 is a perfect expression of the Russian River. The nose is expressive, even exuberant, with citrus fruits, and warm floral exotic notes of orange and spicy lees with just the right amount of oak to support the rich fruit. Fine complexity. Hobbs seems to be heading down the less-extracted route with this wine, and we applaud that tack. The attack is fresh and vibrant with pear and green apple fruit flecked with honey, clove and hazelnut flavours. Fine elegance and food friendly too. Try this with lobster or crab.

Rodney Strong Zinfandel Knotty Vines 2009 comes off an old vineyard first planted by founder Rodney Strong some four decades ago. The attack is round, the palate slightly chunky with black cherry, smoky, licorice, leather, chocolate, barnyard, tobacco and vanilla flavours. A robust, rustic style zinfandel perfect for pizza.

You should love the juicy style of the Château St. Jean Pinot Noir 2009 with its super bright Carneros rasp-berry/strawberry-scented fruit and darker, deeper Russian River Valley components. Expect a mix of tea, dried cranberries and black fruits to coat your palate with a smooth plummy, dark cherry finish. Ripe, easy sipping and delicious, this is a wonderful introductory Sonoma Pinot.

The Davis Bynum Pinot Noir 2010 is a mix of clones 115, 777, 667, 114, 113, Pom-mard and 2A grown on the gravelly loams soils of the Santa Rosa Plain in the Russian River Valley. The present Bynum style, or should I say wine-maker Greg Morthole's style, is a fresher, lighter Pinot without being lean. Notes of cranberry punctuate the smooth, smoky, spicy black fruit flavours and textures, and thanks to its moderate alcohol (for Pinot), it is very food-friendly. Sold only at Everything Wine.

The Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir 2010 is distinctively regional using seven Russian River sites, a mix of five clones and six soil types. Expect incense and cool floral, cran-cherry cinnamon notes. The attack is restrained in texture, smooth and packed full of strawberry jam, celery salt, dried herbs and earthy, cedar, cranberry rooty notes. It's a not year for everyone's taste but this is a New World Pinot style that is both expressive and terroir based.

SONOMA SHOWCASE

Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay 2010, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California

Price: $33

UPC: 742651107195

Score: 90/100

Remarks: The textures are creamy; the flavours are fresh and bright. Halibut anyone?

Paul Hobbs Chardonnay 2010, Russian River, Sonoma County, California

Price: $57

UPC: 897941000158

Score: 92/100

Remarks: Vibrant with pear and green apple fruit flecked with honey, clove and hazelnut.

Rodney Strong Zinfandel Knotty Vines 2009, Sonoma County, California

Price: $21

UPC: 087512920057

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Black cherry, smoky, licorice, leather, chocolate, and vanilla flavours.

Château St. Jean Pinot Noir 2009, Sonoma County, California

Price: $33

UPC: 089819059041

Score: 89/100

Remarks: A juicy style Pinot with super bright Carneros fruit.

Davis Bynum Pinot Noir 2010, Russian River, Sonoma County, California

Price: $40, Everything Wine stores only

UPC: 0087512887459

Score: 91/100

Remarks: A fresher, lighter Pinot without being lean. Try with Peking duck.

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir 2010, Russian River, Sonoma County, California

Price: $60

UPC: 897941000165

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Strawberry jam, celery salt, dried herbs and cedar, cranberry/rooty notes.