Something New, Something Different

It may seem odd but reaching for a conservative European wine label might be all that is required to begin a new odyssey in a taste and style. And believe me as New World labels get more and more ridiculous it gets easier to do every time you shop.

In a world full of second- and third-rate wines that consumers recognize as such, wineries have fallen prey to the put-a-goofy-label-on-your-bottle marketing. As if that might somehow make the wine taste better, but then I digress. The theme is supposed to be something new or at least different.

If you haven't noticed the local liquor monopoly is creeping toward a disturbing Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO) practice known as one-time buys. It means they will list a wine but there is no guarantee they will list it again, even if it sells out in days. While it is hard to argue that change isn't a good thing for store shelves, it doesn't make a lot of sense to this writer to ignore obvious successes for the sake of change.

I know it's more complicated than that but what can be more complicated than telling your customer we know you enjoyed that new wine we brought in last month but we are not re-ordering it again. That is a daily nightmare in Ontario for LCBO customers who have learned not to have any allegiance to any wine. Is that the plan in B. C.? But back to something different.

Use the summer to experiment and reach for wines you might otherwise not try to try to expand your personal portfolio.

I'm sure encruzado is not on most wine drinkers must-buy list, but this Portuguese variety will delight you if dry and fresh is part of your summer white wine mantra. The Dão Sul Cabriz Encruzado 2009 just screams freshness and drinkability on the nose and immediately on the attack. We love the mineral grapefruit aromas, the finely-tuned, subtle oak additions and its bright, fresh, citrus and almond flavoured palate. Delicious and different, this would be great with an avocado and citrus salad or any summer chop salad. Great value in alternative, modern wine.

Along those same lines, when is the last time you reached for a picpoul? A pick what you say. Picpoul is one of those white wine Rhone varieties you seldom see on its own until you find yourself lunching in Paris or Avignon. You are going to savour the Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet 2010 all lunch hour and likely all summer. Enjoy its Meyer lemon, honey, spicy, quince and ginger aromas and its fresh, lively, slightly oily textures that preview more juicy lemon oil, honey, quince, grapefruit, ginger and pear skin flavours. There is fine intensity and length, all at a great price. Perfect with bouillabaisse but it is also a great summer sipper. Great value. Under screw cap it is now money in the bank for wine lists.

This may seem to fall into the category of goofy names and labels, but sometimes the wine is better than the label, and Riesling often gets the benefit of the doubt. The Frisk Prickly Riesling 2010, is fresh, off-dry and the prickly thing is a bit of unfermented juice put back in the bottle to offer up some natural spritz. Nectarines, lemon sherbet, floral powder, limes -- you name it it's all here. Chill this down and order Thai food. Did I mention it is only eight per cent alcohol?

The Planeta family has no problem making high-end wines in Sicily but Casa Planeta Nero d'Avola Syrah 2009 is the first affordable label we have seen from the respected producer. As you would expect from the unusual blend, the fruit is warm and spicy with a mix of plums and black fruit that finish smooth and warm. Pizza, chicken, pasta all work. All in all good value.

Tempranillo and Malbec seem odd bedfellows but they work in Argentina as is evident by the

Mapema Malbec Tempranillo 2009. I have a feeling this super-rich, dense, fruity red will be a big hit in B.C. The result of two Argentine wine masters, Pepe Galante (née Catena) and Mariano di Paola of la Rural/Rutini, is a combination that could have legs, Malbec and tempranillo. The tempranillo tempers the fat lush Malbec fruit and the result is a delicious, smoky, jammy red with a savoury mineral finish. T-bones are the answer here.

Chile's carmenère grape is still trying to claw its way onto the main grape stage but the Errazuriz Single Vineyard Max Reserva Estates Carmenère 2009 should help the cause. This is an outstanding carmenère which speaks to what is possible when care is taken. We love the polish and weight of the sweet spice and milk chocolate that entices followed by plenty of peppery black fruit and a smooth palate. The finish is like a long sunset with bits of dried tomatoes, spice, tobacco and sweet ripe tannins. The grapes come from Max V planted in 1992 in the Valle de Aconcagua and are aged in 85 per cent French and 15 per cent American oak barrels, 30 per cent of which were new. Stock up.

Price: $17

UPC: 5604575000042

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Bright fresh citrus and almond flavours; a fine value modern wine.

Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet 2010, Picpoul de Pinet, Coteaux du Languedoc, France

Price: $14

UPC: 003186127

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Perfect with bouillabaisse but it is also a fine summer sipper. Great value.

Frisk Prickly Riesling 2010, Victoria, Australia

Price: $15

UPC: 007677490140018

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Did we mention it is only eight per cent alcohol?

Casa Planeta Nero d'Avola Syrah 2009, Sicily, Italy

Price: $16

UPC: 8020735000375

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Pizza, chicken and pasta all work with this good value red.

Mapema Malbec Tempranillo 2009, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $15

UPC: 7790577004749

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A delicious, smoky, jammy red with a savoury mineral finish.

Errazuriz Single Vineyard Max Reserva Estates Carmenère 2009, Valle de Aconcagua, Chile

Price: $23

UPC: 00608057105114

Score 91/100

Remarks: An outstanding carmenère that speaks to what is possible when care is taken.