Skimmerhorn - Creston Valley's First Winery

This is also the second winery in the Kootenays. Columbia Gardens Vineyard & Winery opened six years ago south of Trail.

And wait for a third: Heron Ridge Estates Winery at Castlegar recently applied for a fruit winery license (mostly blueberries).

The Creston Valley has a long history of growing tree fruits and vegetables. The Hoags were orchardists from 1984 until 2005, when they sold their orchard to concentrate on their vineyard and winery.

The career change had a lot to do with depressed apple prices. "The cherry business is still good but the apple business is on the rocks," Al notes. "We had several years there at the end where the apples were bringing in less than 10 cents a pound. Hard costs are 12 cents. You can't sustain that."

Initially, Al Hoag considered making ciders until he concluded that wine is easier to sell. He reasoned that if cherries and apples flourish in the Creston Valley, grapes would also do well. He was not discouraged when, as he was researching viticulture in the Okanagan, some growers there advised him to move to the Okanagan and forget about Creston.

Finding a good site (a former orchard), the Hoags planted 14 acres in 2003. The primary varieties are those suited to the season: Maréchal Foch, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Ortega, along modest plantings of other varieties being given trials. His first harvest was sold to Columbia Gardens. The commendable 2005 Pinot Gris made by Columbia Gardens showed the Hoags that they were on the right track.

Since Creston is half a day's drive east of the Okanagan, the Hoags concluded that they were unlikely to lure an Okanagan winemaker to their cellar. Early last year, they posted an advertisement for a part-time winemaker, following up leads in New Zealand.

"We made a trip to New Zealand and basically pounded the pavement there, going from winery to winery to winery, and talking to all kinds of people," Al Hoag says.

They found a Geisenheim-trained winemaker named Mark Rattray, the owner of a winery near Christchurch called Floating Mountain. He was intrigued with the challenge the Hoags were offering. He agreed to design their winery and to make the 2006 vintage, especially since the vintage in the northern hemisphere occurs in his off-season.

"I had been looking for some time for a winemaking position in the northern hemisphere as I really wanted to get off my patch and explore a little," Rattray explained recently. "I am a New Zealander but I owned a small vineyard in the Rheingau in the early 1970's, so I've always been keen for a bit of a challenge and adventure. Plus, I think I am a skilled and highly experienced winemaker and in a position to spread my talents a bit wider."

He thought Skimmerhorn was the perfect venture - "even better as it is the first winery in the district and the Hoags appeared to be pretty decent people, which, indeed they are. Also, I have helped give birth to several wineries and this was too good an opportunity to pass up."

Rattray came to Creston early last September and stayed for three months, until all of the white wines and the rosé were bottled (under screwcap closures). Since returning to New Zealand, he has remained in close touch regarding the Skimmerhorn reds. 

Rattray's  familiarity with Pinot Noir - one of the major red varieties in the Skimmerhorn vineyard - was a quality that the Hoags were attracted to. "He has good experience with Pinot Noir," Al says, "and he's got some really nice, award-winning Pinots."

"I am looking forward to returning early September for the 2007 harvest and to bottle the 2006 reds," the winemaker says. "I talk to Al Hoag frequently regarding the management of the latter. Part of my brief is to teach Al to make wine so this is a three- to four-year commitment."

Skimmerhorn Pinot Gris 2006 ($16): The wine, which has an attractive light blush colour, is crisp and is packed with fruit - pears, apples, spice and citrus notes - with lively acidity balancing the slight sweetness. Typical of Pinot Gris, the wine has good weight. JS 87/100

Skimmerhorn Pinot Noir Rosé 2006 ($17): The wine has an eye-catching hue of deep, almost electric pink. The clean, fruity aroma suggests fresh raspberry. On the palate, there is a rich fruit salad of flavour - raspberry, strawberry, McIntosh apple. The finish is crisp, dry and delightfully refreshing. 88

Skimmerhorn Ortega 2006 ($16.50): The fruity aroma also has a spicy element, a little like peppermint candy. That's not a negative. On the palate, the flavours are lemony and exotically spiced, a classic cool climate Ortega. The wine is lean and finishes crisply. JS 86/100

Skimmerhorn Autumn Tryst 2006 ($15):  A blend of several white varieties, the wine begins with aromas of green apples, melons and spice. The flavours are lush and tropical - ripe pineapple, peaches, ripe cantaloupe, papaya. The residual sugar, while nicely balanced with acidity, will make this a crowd pleaser for afternoon sipping and for consumers who ask dry but really prefer off-dry. JS 88/100

Skimmerhorn Gewürztraminer 2006 ($15): This is a light, delicate wine, with an aroma of rose petals and fruity, spicy flavours. The finish is crisp and dry. The wine shows the potential for Creston Valley Gewürztraminer once the vines have more age. JS 83/100