Six Wines Six Countries

wine of the week feature on this page, that makes it seven wines from seven countries. In many ways, it's a remarkable testament to the Lower Mainland wine drinker, who is now as global and as savvy as they come.

Looking ahead, it's hard not to predict more of the same (or perhaps the different) in the near future. My short-term crystal ball suggests each country's share of the wine market in British Columbia will continue to even out, with all leading countries fluctuating between a market share of 10 to 15 per cent.

Australia remains well ahead of the pack, mainly on the strength of the remarkable Yellow Tail, a runaway market leader, but California wine is poised for a comeback under the strength of a rising Canadian dollar and better wine. European producers in Italy, Spain, Germany, Portugal and France are optimistic their variety of wines and their suitability at the dinner table will continue to attract new consumers bored with New World varietals.

New Zealand and South Africa will undoubtedly rebound under a strengthening Canadian dollar as consumers discover the quality advancements made there in the last decade. Ditto for Chile and Argentina, where quality and value are now at an all-time high.

With so much competition, to say it's a great time to be drinking wine is an understatement. The only dark spot maybe locally where a smaller B.C crop in 2005 (down on average 10 to 15 per cent) will pose problems for local producers. A shortage of juice means rising prices and that puts the emphasis on quality inside the bottle, so in the key $12 to $20 range competition will be stiff.

As for what people will drink: more white wine, more white wine blends, less oak, more screwcaps, more syrah and malbec, less merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Riesling, sauvignon blanc, viognier and unoaked chardonnay should have a strong summer. I also expect rose will make a breakthrough in the B.C. market this summer.

We begin this week with a delicious, hip white from Spain, Maria de Molina Rueda Verdejo 2004. The verdejo grape has a floral, honey, peach, mineral nose. Its dry, slightly oily texture has a fresh grapefruit, lemon oil and peach skin flavour. It has fine intensity and should work well with grilled fish.

Etienne Hugel appeared hyper-charged at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine festival and it would appear the Hugel Gentil 2004 is equally electric. The latest edition of this riesling, pinot blanc, gewurztraminer, muscat and pinot gris blend has a mineral, slate, green apple skin, and citrus rind aromas. It's dry and refreshing on the palate with lime rind, oily, mineral, slate and lemon flavours. Very crisp, zesty style for seafood and noodles. Best of all, the price is down a dollar this year.

Another attractive blend is the newly released Folie a Deux Menage a Trois White 2004. This time the blend is moscato, chardonnay and chenin blanc. It's $2 less than the previous '04 blend and in my estimation a better wine. Ripe, round, fresh and full-bodied, it has fine balance and plenty of orange, floral, honey, baked quince and grapefruit flavours with a spicy, mineral finish. Serve with pork, seafood curry or a spicy noodle dish. Bravo.

Switching colours, Italian wine fans should checkout Le Volte 2003 from Bolgheri on the Tuscan coast. The blend is sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon; the nose smoky, meaty, peppery, black cherry and saddle leather aromas. The flavours are a mix of peppery, spicy, cassis jam and black cherry with gamey, chocolate and a bit of licorice and vanilla on the finish. Try with barbecued beef or a grilled steak.

Chateau Sainte Eulalie La Cantilene Minervois 2003 may be a mouthful, but so is this Languedoc red blend of syrah, grenache and carignan. It's rich and full-bodied with peppery, licorice, meaty, spicy, black cherry, plum and vanilla flavours. Grilled lamb chops would be a perfect match.

Finally, as mentioned earlier this year, Chile is awakening to the challenge. The Santa Rita Shiraz 120 2005 continues to show promise as its earthy, garrigue, eucalyptus aromas meet a bright blackberry fruit component with a gamy, meaty streak. The entry is round and dry with inviting flavours of mint, briar, licorice root, roasted pepper and black fruit. It's a well-made red under $10. Buy this one by the case.

MARIA DE MOLINA RUEDA VERDEJO 2004, RUEDA, SPAIN
Price: $16.90
UPC: 8414962001432
Score: 87/100
Remarks: White floral, honey, peach, mineral notes with a touch of orange.

HUGEL GENTIL 2004, ALSACE, FRANCE
Price: $16.95
UPC: 3300370111038
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Very crisp, zesty style for seafood and noodles at a new lower price.

FOLIE A DEUX MENAGE A TROIS WHITE 2004, CALIFORNIA
Price: $17.95
UPC: 099988071058
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Great with pork, seafood curry or a spicy noodle dish. Bravo.

LE VOLTE 2003, BOLGHERI, TUSCANY, ITALY
Price: $29.49
UPC: 086003002708
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Dry, round, elegant style with light, dry tannins.

CHATEAU SAINTE EULALIE LA CANTILENE MINERVOIS 2003, LANGUEDOC, FRANCE
Price: $24.99
UPC: 03548602001034
Score: 89/100
Remarks: An attractive red with peppery, licorice, meaty, spicy, black cherry flavours.

SANTA RITA SHIRAZ 120 2005, VALLE DEL MAIPO, CHILE
Price: $9.99
UPC: 686586000254
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Dirt cheap with inviting flavours of mint, briar, licorice root and roasted pepper.