Sipping Sauvignon

Last weekend I took stock of the 60-odd sauvignon blancs that I have tasted this year and discovered that despite their varied origins, many share an affinity with one another.

One can only surmise that winemaking techniques and viticulture are playing a key role world wide in shaping the flavours of wine and that in some cases it appears they are able to transcend even the much-vaunted notion of terroir.

Stylistically, most sauvignon breaks down into three categories; the pure varietal or un-wooded style with crisp acidity; the lightly oaked versions that combine some portion of barrel-fermented juice with tank-fermented juice, giving the wine a slightly richer and more complex flavour (my favourite, by the way); and the entirely barrel-fermented, toasted-oak and lees-stirred style that gives the finished wine more of a chardonnay-like profile in the mouth.

Gone, by-and-large, are the excessively vegetative, bell pepper and canned asparagus notes and the bitter citrus rind flavours. The grassy aromas are still present but in a much more balanced setting. The positive aspect in the 2000s is the predominance of fresh grapefruit, green apple, kiwi and far more mineral notes.

Today I've chosen six fine examples all of which deliver in the glass. As similar as they are in style, they are different in taste and the fun is in discovering the best way to drink them.

Chilean sauvignon blanc, especially those that hail from coastal Casablanca, appear to have come the farthest in the last decade upping flavour and acidity and dispensing with the unattractive flat, bitter, oily notes and worst low-flavour extract.

From cool, southern Curico the Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc 2003 offers clean mineral, green apple/passion-fruit aromas mixed with grassy green melon notes that are very New Zealand-like. On the palate, lemon, green apple and green kiwi flavours take over with a strong mineral, light bell-pepper finish. Shellfish is the match here.

Equally tasty is Vina Casas del Bosque Sauvignon Blanc 2003, that hails from the cool coastal Casablanca Valley. You'll love its fresh gooseberry, grapefruit rind and mineral aromas streaked with tinned asparagus and passion fruit. The entry is dry and elegant, and the flavours: mineral, grapefruit rind, lemon oil, and green gooseberry.

South Africa, the theme country of the upcoming 2005 Playhouse Wine Festival, has enjoyed similar success with sauvignon, keeping it fresh and light and pairing it with local seafood -- a sort of half New Zealand, half Chilean style.

Just released is the Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc 2004 with a Western Cape designation. The nose is a mix of mineral, gooseberry, and citrus rind aromas with a touch of passion fruit, but without any aggressive edges. It's light and easy sipping with grassy, asparagus, grapefruit rind flavours and a dry, crisp, bitter rind finish. Good value here.

Australia has struggled with sauvignon, although today's pick, Shaw and Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2003, says a great deal about the potential of the Adelaide Hills. Look for a gooseberry, grapefruit rind, mineral, floral, kiwi nose all in a dry, round, elegant style. The intense flavours of gooseberry and grapefruit rind mix with a chalky texture and a crisp, smoky undercurrent that finishes with green, grassy melon fruit. Stylish and fresh with a long, citrus aftertaste, this is well done.

New Zealand remains a leader but its global success has only spurred on the competition. Fending off all comers in style is Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2004 from Hawkes Bay. Its super-fresh nose is an exotic mix of passion fruit, orange, and grapefruit rind flecked with a hint of jalapeno pepper. Crisp and delicate, its delicious flavours include grapefruit, lime rind, melon and gooseberry. And it comes with an easy-to-open screwcap.

California can be home to some stellar sauvignon as evidenced by the Rancho Zabaco Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2003 out of Sonoma County's Russian River. This wine is packed full of fresh melon, green apple, mineral and honey lime rind aromas with a touch of smoky jalapeno underneath. Similar floral flavours of grassy honeydew and lime rind fade into a crisp, long, lime and honeyed apple finish. This is impressive.

Now let's hope for a few more warm days before the rain settles in.

Weekend Wine Tasting: Sauvignon Blanc

Wine Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc 2003, Valle del Curicó, Region del Valle Central, Chile

Price $13.90

UPC 089046777329

Score 87/100

Remarks Surprisingly Kiwi-like; try with clams.

Wine Vina Casas del Bosque Sauvignon Blanc 2003, Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

Price $18.95*

UPC 697412000027

Score 89/100

Remarks From the Chilean coast a dry, well balanced sauvignon made for seafood.

Wine Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Western Cape, South Africa

Price $13.99

UPC 083206000531

Score 86/100

Remarks Light easy-sipping style with grassy/grapefruit rind flavours.

Wine Shaw and Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2003, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia

Price $31.95*

UPC 9316770000104

Score 90/100

Remarks Cool, serene and sophisticated from Adelaide Hills.

Wine Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand

Price $18.99

UPC 941530120984

Score 89/100

Remarks Fine textures and acidity. Drink now and enjoy the easy to open screwcap.

Wine Rancho Zabaco Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2003, Russian River, Sonoma County, California, United States

Price $22.00*

UPC 085000010822

Score 91/100

Remarks Outstanding Russian river fruit.

* Private wine shops only