Should I Stay or Should I Go

The number of entries in the 2012 competition is a record breaking 1,247 wines from across the country. Almost everyone who counts in the Canadian wine business has entered wines, although as has been the case from the start, a few wineries choose not to enter for reasons only they can explain.

I'm never surprised by any-thing wineries do or how they interact with their fellow producers. Over the years, owners have made entrepreneurial decisions that seemingly make sense from the boardroom but often look less than admirable when the bigger picture is painted.

Here in B.C., a number of wineries still do not belong to the British Columbia Wine Institute and others have shunned the Vintner's Quality Alliance program. The reasons for not playing (or should I say paying) on the team stretch from Vancouver to Penticton and back, but of course it doesn't stop any non-participants from basking in the heavy lifting performed by the collective over the last three decades to establish a very favourable brand Okanagan, brand VQA and brand British Columbia.

The better news is the majority continue to forge ahead and, from time to time, convince the odd doubter to return to the fold. It is only as a tight group can the tiny B.C. wine industry ever hope to succeed globally. Speaking of groups, the first year of the BC Sustainable Winegrowing Program is complete, and the progress report is impressive with seven Okanagan vineyards and wineries already on board. The sustainability program is designed to allow participants to self-assess their vineyard, winery and winery hospitality centre.

I have observed this kind of program rolled out in other wine regions around the world and the results are more than inspiring. As they have in packaging, organics, bio-dynamics and education, wineries continue to lead most other businesses in making responsible decisions to ensure the long-term viability of their output and the environment.

Winemaker Randy Picton of Osoyoos-based Nk'Mip Cellars says, "We look upon this program as an important first step in establishing a road map to operating our business in a more environmentally sustainable manner. I was very impressed with the content and presentation of the program. As an industry we are fortunate to have such a profession-ally developed tool so readily available."

Participation in the program is voluntary and a self-assessment approach is used to evaluate practices. Down the road, a third-party certification will be put in place to reinforce the credibility of the program and ensure it is setting high and verifiable standards. So far, a number of workshops have been held across the province and in the first year 243 guide-books have been purchased by 172 vineyards, 40 wineries and 31 winery hospitality centres. From that, 77 online assessment accounts were opened and 12 assessments have been submitted.

Admittedly it's early days but British Columbia wineries appear to have all the tools they need to remain natural, pristine and sustainable. Now it's up to each individual winery to join the group and make the region a global leader in sustainable, healthy wine production.

This week we look at six new local wines you should be familiar with.

The latest Poplar Grove Pinot Gris 2011 is a hint drier and fresher, which is a good trend. The attack is fresh and watery with mineral, wet stone, citrus, green apple flavours and just a hint of bitterness in the finish. Love the fresh, zippy character of this wine that will allow you to have fun with an infinite mix of foods. The simple match is a classic tomato pizza but you can also serve it with a savoury roast chicken.

Equally enticing is Hillside Estate Gewürztraminer 2011 with its fresh, elegant, slightly sweet entry and honey, floral, pink grapefruit, rose water and lychee flavours. A friendly, juicy style with some intensity. Delicious and affordable.

At $23, the Hester Creek Old Vines Block 16 Treb-biano 2011 has arrived. The only solo Trebbiano we know of in B.C., the vines date back to the early 1970s and are the oldest on the estate. The nose is an aromatic mix of bright, honeysuckle and red apples. The attack is similar with ripe tropical undertones, apricots, white peach and lime rind. Think pad Thai, spicy, grilled chicken or summer pasta dishes.

Expect a formidable black cherry, meaty, spicy, saddle leather nose to mark the Mission Hill S.L.C. Syrah 2009. The tannins are youthful and savoury with flavours of blueberries, black cherries, spice, meat and coffee flavours. Plenty of fruit will carry this forward over the next two to four years. A serious red for rich lamb dishes.

Senka and Bob Tennant (formerly Black Hills) are back in business, this time on Naramata Bench. Terrav-ista Figaro 2011 is a blend of Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne and one of only two wines made at the property. The nose is an attractive mix of white flowers, pepper and citrus with bits peach and honey-suckle. The mid-plate is fresh if a touch watery but we will take the easy-drinking style over the thick and alcoholic. Turkey any one?

Our final pick is Black Hills Alibi Sauvignon Blanc - Sémillon 2011 with an appealing pink grapefruit, citrus and floral nose. The attack is crisp, cool and elegant with sweet, smoky herbal notes. Look for more pink grapefruit, lemon thyme, mineral and ginger flavours with a trace of chalk underneath. Buttered clams steamed with a squeeze of Alibi is a perfect match.

Poplar Grove Pinot Gris 2011, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley

Price:    $20

UPC:      626990118961

Score:   89/100

Remarks:             Match this with a classic tomato pizza or a savoury roast chicken.

Hillside Estate Gewürztraminer 2011, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley

Price:    $20

UPC:      00626990019138

Score:   89/100

Remarks:             A friendly, juicy style with some intensity. Delicious and affordable.

Hester Creek Old Vines Block 16 Trebbiano 2011, Okanagan Valley

Price:    $23

UPC:      00626990125341

Score:   89/100

Remarks:             Ripe tropical undertones, apricots, white peach and lime rind.

Mission Hill S.L.C. Syrah 2009, Okanagan Valley

Price:    $40

UPC:      776545995742

Score:   89/100

Remarks:             Savoury flavours of blueberries, black cherries, spice, meat and coffee.

Terravista Figaro 2011, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley

Price:    $24

UPC:      00627843135258

Score:   90/100

Remarks:             Sanka Tennat has a flare for making refreshing, exciting white wines.

Black Hills Alibi Sauvignon Blanc - Sémillon 2011, Okanagan Valley

Price:    $25

UPC:      626990061564

Score:   90/100

Remarks:             Look for pink grapefruit, lemon thyme, mineral and ginger flavours.

Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Industry+gets+together+grow/7110750/story.html#ixzz24acsUo5P