Shiraz Still Going Strong

History tells us that syrah is one of the oldest established grapes in France, but its origins are less apparent and there is plenty of speculation as to its source.

Some claim it came to Marseilles, France around 600 BC via the Phocaeans of Asia Minor, who in turn are said to have imported the grape from Shiraz, Persia.

Others point to the Romans as bringing the variety from Syracuse, Sicily, to the Rhone in the third century AD. Still others implicate the Crusaders returning from the Middle East via Cyprus.

But in the end, it seems that syrah was already widely planted in the Rhone by Roman times and it's that notion that led scientists to consider the grape may be indigenous to France.

In 1998, plant geneticist Carole Meredith, of the University of California at Davis, and Jean-Michel Boursiquot, of L'Ecole Nationale Superieure Agronomique de Montpellier, proved just that.

Employing DNA research they discovered that syrah is the child of two obscure French varieties, dureza and mondeuse blanche. Neither the former native to the Ardeche, nor the latter from the Savoie, was considered distinguished.

That said, there is little doubt the sum of the union has become a serious grape given the gusto with which wine drinkers have taken to French syrah and its New World "shiraz" version.

Retailers like to position shiraz as merlot with flavour, and it's the smoky meaty fruity peppery flavours often flecked with bacon, leather chocolate and violets that make it so much fun to drink.

Today, we traverse the globe to offer up some excellent examples that demonstrate just how well syrah is adapting to its many new homes.

We begin in Sicily with Feudo Arancio Syrah 2003. This is a surprisingly fun red with a supple, rich palate. Look for black berry, chocolate, licorice and spicy, meaty, floral, smoky flavours. It is well made, well balanced and good value too.

Similarly, you will be attracted to the big white pepper, smoky, roasted pepper nose of the Cremaschi Furlotti Syrah Reserve 2003 from Chile.

The flavours mix smoky, vanilla, toffee meaty, smoky tobacco leaf with some black berry, and olive notes too. Cellar for a year or two, or serve now with roasted meat dishes. Private wine shops only.

The new Fat Bastard Shiraz 2004 makes a statement for France and the Languedoc. The entry is dry and taut with tobacco, roasted pepper, black cherry, licorice flavours, and a wild berry note on the finish. A fine value dinner wine for grilled meats, or poultry.

The most enticing nose of the group goes to the Yalumba Shiraz Y Series 2003. Rich spicy, mocha, tobacco notes with chocolate, vanilla and black cherry notes pull you into the glass. The finish is long and fruity with some finesse. Attractive style and good value too.

Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2004 is our South African pick. Here the wild smoky, garrigue and pepper nose shouts syrah, as does its supple peppery, tobacco, licorice and meaty wild berry flavours. Coffee, pepper and mint round out the finish. Well done.

Finally, golfer Greg Norman continues to fine-tune his wine brand and delivers a solid Greg Norman Estates Shiraz Limestone Coast 2003. This is rich, ripe red wine with blackberry jam, mocha, spicy, peppery flavours with an exotic twist of orange rind. Finish is warm, dry and slightly acidic. Drink or hold.

Syrah Shiraz

FEUDO ARANCIO SYRAH 2003, SICILY, ITALY
Price $15.99
UPC 8032601680253
Score 87/100
Remarks    Ripe black berry, chocolate, licorice, meaty, smoky flavours.

CREMASCHI FURLOTTI SYRAH RESERVE 2003, VALLE DEL MAULE, CHILE
Price $16.95, private wine shops
UPC 7804342002110
Score 87/100
Remarks    Serve with lamb or other roasted meats.

FAT BASTARD SHIRAZ 2004, LANGUEDOC, SOUTH OF FRANCE
Price $16.95
UPC 3700067800717
Score 87/100
Remarks    A good value, solid dinner wine.

YALUMBA SHIRAZ Y SERIES 2003, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Price $17.99
UPC 9311789005706
Score 88/100
Remarks    Attractive black fruit, licorice, chocolate, vanilla flavours.

PORCUPINE RIDGE SYRAH 2004, COASTAL REGION, SOUTH AFRICA
Price $17.99
UPC 746925000786
Score 88/100
Remarks    Wild smoky, garrigue gamey, meaty syrah adventure.

GREG NORMAN ESTATES SHIRAZ LIMESTONE COAST 2003, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Price $27.99
UPC 023859552285
Score 88/100
Remarks    Rich blackberry jam, mocha, spicy, roasted pepper flavours.