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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

New South Wales (NSW) Wine Industry Association president David Lowe shared some interesting thoughts at the Innovative Directions for the Australian Wine Industry conference last week at Charles Sturt University (CSU) in Wagga Wagga.

Selling the Wine Experience

New South Wales (NSW) Wine Industry Association president David Lowe shared some interesting thoughts at the Innovative Directions for the Australian Wine Industry conference last week at Charles Sturt University (CSU) in Wagga Wagga. In a report that appeared in The Daily Advertiser, Lowe is quoted as saying, "Get used to buying your wine direct from the winery," or what the Australians like to call the cellar door. Lowe suggested that future customers would be buying direct from the vineyard, rather than from their local bottle shops. It is all about a greater focus on wine tourism. In essence, the message was grow, make and sell your own wine.

 

Lowe could have given that speech in the Okanagan Valley and had a lot of vintners nodding their heads in agreement. Although to be fair, many British Columbia producers are already well positioned to grow, make and sell their wine.

 

To get back to Oz for a moment: the big city trend is all about boutique wine bars. Unlike the restricted experiences we are allowed to enjoy in the highly-regulated Vancouver wine scene, Australians enjoy the freedom of hanging out in wine bars, meeting friends and enjoying a glass of wine with or without food at a modest price. It is a setting that seems idyllic to Oz wine sippers and surreal to Vancouverites. Yet it turns out in Australia, there is no money in selling wines for less money and under duress to local wine bars. Add to that a growing monopoly of powerful bottle shops and selling wine in any channel other than direct is, well, not very profitable.

 

That said, there is a catch to selling direct at the winery if you are going to sell your wine at a price equal to or higher than what consumers would find in the city. Think about it, why would you drive five hours to wine country to pay the same price at the winery you pay in the city. That's where personality and wine country experience comes in and that's what David Lowe is preaching.

 

Long before the retailers and powerful monopolies, consumers could buy wine direct at the winery for less than it was sold in the city but those days are gone. Most wine country wine shops charge city prices. The only question is why or how do they get away with it. The answer is simple; the average retail wine experience bar is set so low there is plenty of room to manoeuvre. Vineyard walks, cellar visits and on-site tasting all have the ability to draw wine buyers into your product at a level they could never experience in the city.

 

"That buying wine will become a customer experience coupled to the story of the winery, the vineyard and the personal story of each wine that you will get at the winery," says Lowe.

 

It may sound a bit daunting but economically it is far cheaper for most wine producers to put a big effort into customer experience than fighting it out on retail shelves. What you are going to see in the next decade are many new wineries built to give you that experience from the get go.

 

Culmina Family Estate Winery, the latest wine adventure of the Triggs family's (of Jackson-Triggs and Delaine Vineyard fame) opens next month just south of Oliver on the Golden Mile. The tasting room is more like a meeting room. You will make a reservation online and when you visit the winery they'll spend 45 minutes with you touring and explaining the entire vineyard and winery operation.

 

Across the valley on the Black Sage Bench, Church and State has built a fabulous wine bar experience and just around the corner. Black Hills is offering an equally amazing out-of-doors tasting bar experience you won't soon forget.

 

Mission Hill owner Anthony von Mandl recognized all this two decades ago and with a purported 150,000 annual visitors stopping you can guess that just selling them a single bottle has to be extremely profitable.

 


 

Pezoules Sauvignon Blanc Assyrtiko 2011, Macedonia, Greece

Price $14 | Score 87/100

UPC: 7340048601672

This is a fresh little number with a bony, citrus core and a hit of C02 to further enliven the mid-palate and finish. Simple, crisp and bright with a touch of dried herbs and more citrus in the finish. Ready to take on a sushi roll or even some sashimi. Super value.

 

Tormaresca Neprica 2010, Puglia, Italy

Price: $22 | Score: 88/100

UPC: 08026530000039

The cleverly named Neprica, a blend of NE-groamaro, PR-imitivo and CA-bernet Sauvignon and in 2011 it has the classic warm, Mediterranean nose of southern Italy. The attack is soft and round a riper less rustic version no doubt reflecting the fancy new winery. Black fruits with chocolate, licorice and anise

 

Martin's Lane Riesling 2012, East Kelowna, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Price: $26 | Score: 90/100

UPC: 776545993007

Another fine effort in 2012 leaves little doubt this wine is finally settling into a groove, as is the collaboration of winemakers John Simes and Fritz Hasselbach. The nose is floral and fresh with juicy fruit reminiscent of fresh pear flecked with cherries and tangerines. Intense, refined and

 

Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2010, South Eastern, Australia

Price: $15.50 | Score 88/100

UPC: 012354071445

Tasted in New York as part of a 35-year retrospective and twice now in Vancouver, this delicious 2010 stood out with a wealth of primary fruit and spice on the nose. The attack is slightly lifted with gobs of soft sweet fruit on the mid-palate and finish. A delicious early-drinking style that will

 

Masi Modello Rosso delle Venezie 2010, Verona, Veneto, Italy

Price: $13 | Score: 85/100

UPC: 008002062001522

You don't get much for $13 in B.C., so it is fun to be able to recommend Masi Modello as a classic mid-week pizza red. The style is light and dry with earthy, peppery notes and just a hint of bitterness in the finish. Four cheese pizza anyone.

 

Argiolas Costera Cannonau di Sardegna 2010, Sardinia, Italy

Price: $25 | Score: 89/100

UPC: 8010544420754

Similar to previous editions, the nose is peppery with raspberry jam and spicy, floral notes. The attack is warm and spicy with supple smoky, black raspberry jam, dried cherry and more floral, orange and mineral notes. The finish is long and warm with bits of earth and tobacco. Drink now with meat/pasta dishes or cellar 24 months.

 

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.