Selbach-Oster Magic In The Mosel

It's not a tornado or even a gale force wind but the number of listings is creeping up and interest in riesling among wine drinkers is at an all-time high.

Ironically, it's the fresh floral, fruit flavours of grapes grown outside Germany, in Australia, New Zealand, nearby Washington State, New York's Finger Lakes as well as Canada's Niagara and Okanagan wine regions, that are leading the rush back to riesling. And that's all fine with Germany's modern-day riesling ambassadors, who will take whatever help they can get.

One such crusader is Johannes Selbach, proprietor of Zeltingen-based, Selbach-Oster located in the heart of the Mosel region. After an unprecedented run of a dozen highly favourably harvests dating back to 1988, Selbach is coming off a further trio of amazing growing seasons in 2001, 2002 and 2003 that are fuelling the riesling comeback.

In fact the 2003 Mosel vintage is so exceptional, German experts can't think of a better year among any in which there are records. Having toured the Mosel earlier this spring, I would conclude 2003 is everything they say it is and more. Certainly Johannes Selbach is sitting on a goldmine of bottles that justify his dedication to the riesling grape.

Remarkably, Selbach's passion for riesling and his respect for Vancouver's innovative food scene have drawn him back to our city for a second visit in less than six months. It's a noteworthy commitment from a winery that doesn't need the hassle of selling its wine into a complicated retail monopoly when the rest of the word is knocking down his doors to buy his wine.

But Johannes Selbach's vision is long term and his commitment to selling riesling in B.C. is similarly crafted. Not every wine can be an easily recognized brand name. Some need to be nurtured and some require a leap of faith. Selbach's wine, by nature of its riesling make-up, is just that. So what are you waiting for -- make the jump to riesling and you may never drink another chardonnay.

Our tasting begins with two very clever wines that had their labels over-hauled by Vancouver artist Johanna Waldorf. With so many people ignoring great wine because of its complicated traditional German label, the decision was made to simplify the look. Now the label looks as fresh and tasty as the wine.

The Selbach Riesling Dry (Red Fish Label) is still the 2002 but either way, '02 or the soon to be released '03, this is a winner. Look for an attractive honey, peach, slate/mineral and lime rind nose. On the palate it is fresh, clean and juicy with green apple, white peach and spicy mineral flavours. Delicate, low-alcohol and easy-drinking, you can pair this with most Indian and Chinese foods.

The new Selbach Riesling Kabinett (Green Fish Label) 2003 is fabulous. As delicious as the '02 is with its peachy, green apple and floral scented flavours, the 2003 is supercharged by an even warmer growing season. Look for the wet slate (Mosel) mineral nose streaked with candied citrus peel notes, all of which mix effortlessly with red apples honey and fresh citrus fruit. Deliciously balanced, it is a fruity, killer, riesling that would have Johannes Selbach thinking about food at Montri's (Thai), Vij's (Indian) and Memphis Blues (Barbecue).

Wow! How good is this simple everyday Selbach Riesling Bereich Bernkastel 2003 Riesling? It has all the expected green apple, mineral, slate and citrus flavours ripened to perfection in 2003. Round fresh, elegant and finished with clover honey undertones that mark the 2003 crop. Ridiculously good and affordable. Try with simply prepared fish and a fresh fruit salsa.

Selbach-Oster Riesling Zeltinger Schlossberg Kabinett 2002, from the village of Zeltingen and the vineyard of Schlossberg, has an appealing smoky, mineral, apple skin nose with some underlying green peach notes. It's round, fresh and elegant in the mouth yet fruity and soft. This is a fine dry, kabinett-class riesling you can drink all summer.

From the same vineyard and the same year is the slightly sweeter and richer Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese 2002. Look for a touch more petrol/Vaseline character on the nose and in the flavours mixed with black currant mineral and wet slate. It has a refined sweet flavour and weight yet with all the delicate, fresh fruit of the Mosel. Should be a delight to sip for several years. The 2003 is even better and will be in stores in matter of weeks if not days.

Today's finale in half bottle is the ultra-rich Selbach-Oster Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese 2002. The nose is green apple, slate and mineral laced with touches of peach. Fresh red apple, peach, orange flavours with low acidity dominate the palate. Flavourful but made for current drinking. The 2003, soon to arrive, is a sensational mix of intense honey, peach, pineapple, orange flavours with a slatey, apricot, and juicy apple finish. Be sure to be on the lookout for this later this summer.