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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Bits and pieces to start 2013 beginning with that age-old question, where have all the years gone?

Say No to No Vintage

To be more precise, what happened to all the vintages at www.bcldb.com?

 

Whose idea was it to stop publishing the year or vintage date for most wines under $25? It was bad enough they were mostly a year out of date, but failing to denote each year as it is rendered on the label smacks of disinterest at best, especially in an age where data collection is so easy. If it's too much work to keep track of the proper vintage in your database (a vintage that can be as different as night and day from year to year) maybe it's time to get out of the business of selling wine.

 

Given the importance of each vintage to the soul of the wine, I'm inclined to indict the agent and winery as equally careless in presenting their wines to the public. Somewhere along the line someone has to care enough to make sure the data is correct for each vintage.

 

Speaking of vintage dates, the 35th Vancouver International Wine Festival is officially open for business. Tickets are disappearing at the customary speed - fast - so if you think you would like to attend an event or two, this year this might be the week to secure some tickets. For the many who have asked, I have compiled my personal Top 5 list of festival events you may want to attend, based on the quality of the wine being served, the speaker(s) and cost. Note these are events that still have tickets left.

 

Natural Balance: Bonterra and Oru, Feb. 25, Oru restaurant at the Fairmont Pacific Rim Hotel, 6: 30 to 9: 30 p.m. ($145). Bonterra Vineyard director David Koball and Oru executive chef Darren Brown will combine their passion for all things natural at what should be a delicious and healthy evening. There are very few experiences like walking through Bonterra Vineyard; one hopes this evening will bring some of that magic to Vancouver. Organic grape growing and the mysteries of bio-dynamic viticulture should make for interesting dinner conversation. The Bonterra lineup of organic wines will be joined by famed biodynamic selections The McNab 2007 and The Butler 2006.

 

Ridge Revealed, Feb. 28, Market by Jean-Georges, 5: 15 to 6: 45 p.m. ($195). The one and only Paul Draper, CEO and winemaker, will explore four decades of history behind Ridge's iconic Monte Bello Cabernet blend: 1985, 1995, 2001 and 2009. Draper will also pour zinfandel from the famed Ridge estate vineyards: Geyser-ville and Lytton Springs. Canapés will be provided by executive chef Wayne Harris of Market by Jean-Georges.

 

Regional Superstars of California, March 1, VCC West, 5 to 6: 45 p.m. ($60). Talented local wine enthusiast/educator DJ Kearney will walk you through a dozen wine regions and wines with help from an equally impressive panel of producers. Stops in Mendocino, Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley, Paso Robles, Carneros and more will highlight the latest in California terroir wine; that is, wine that is made by someone that comes from somewhere.

 

Raise a Glass for Argentina, March 2, Lift Bar Grill View, from noon to 2 p.m. ($69). Lunch in Coal Harbour doesn't get much better than this. Expect a solid lineup of Argentine wines and principals at what is a casual, standup, walkabout, grazing-style lunch. Food and wine on the water with a view of the North Shore Mountains is tough to beat but it will be even better when you consider the wines you will taste are grown at an elevation well above the Grouse Mountain ski runs.

 

Meet your Match, March 2, VCC West, from 5 to 6: 45 p.m. ($80). (Full disclosure: I'm "chaperoning" this event), but you get 10 top wines, and in the fast-paced, speed-dating format you will meet all 10 principals, some of the biggest wine names at the festival, for about eight minutes each as you move about the room.

 

You will find more information for the 2013 Vancouver international Wine festival at www.vanwinefest.ca.

 

In the meantime, this week's picks span several price points and should keep your palate well-honed - and all offer exceptional value. Enjoy.

 


 

La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Luberon Blanc 2011, South of France

Price $13 | Score 87/100

UPC: 631470000049

Here's another delicious, dry, food-friendly white from the Rhone with floral, quince, pear, lemon oil, baked green apple and ginger aromas and flavours. The attack is juicy with creamy textures yielding to a well-balanced, easy-drinking style with some complexity. Solid value.

 

Telmo Rodriguez Basa Rueda Blanco 2011, Rueda, Castilla-Leon, Spain

Price $19 | Score 89/100

UPC: 08420759900017

Basa is the foundation of the Telmo Rodriguez wine empire. Gooseberry, passion fruit, melon, canned grapefruit and light asparagus aromas mark the nose of what is a delicious ripe, juicy white that is slightly fatter on the palate with grapefruit, passion fruit, lime, gooseberry, grassy flavours. Good fruit and viscosity with some length and complexity. Fine value in a very food-friendly white.

 

Cono Sur Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Valle de San Antonio, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

Price $14.50 | Score 88/100

UPC: 007804320348063

The latest Cono Sur SB is back in form. Passion fruit, lime, light jalapeno, gooseberry, grassy, chalky aromas carry on its fresh, juicy, elegant palate. There is a bit of sweetness in the ripe passion fruit, guava, gooseberry, grapefruit and jalapeno flavours. Lots of fruit and intensity for an inexpensive Sauvignon that should work with a great deal of West Coast seafood.

 

Torres Sangre de Toro Garnacha -- Cariñena 2009, Penedès, Catalunya, Spain

Price $14 | Score 86/100

UPC: 008410113003294

A steady red if ever there was one at this price point. A touch reduced on opening so be sure to splash decant and get some air on the wine. The attack is pretty with smoky, black cherry jam and savoury aromas with dried herbs, black cherry, licorice, caraway flavours. A well-made red that will excel with most simply prepared foods.

 

Gerard Bertrand St. Chinian Syrah Mourvèdre 2010, Coteaux du Languedoc, France

Price $21.50 | Score 89/100

UPC: 003514120105233

Juicy black cherry, black plum, smoky, peppery, savoury aromas with licorice and roasted meat aromas. Rich, full, round, fresh palate with some light tannins. The entry is round and warm with black cherry jam, plum, sausage meat, peppery, savoury, tobacco, tea leaf, chocolate, vanilla and sage flavours. A rich red with big, juicy fruit and light tannins. Drink now and over the next few years. Continued fine quality and value.

 

Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard 2008, Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County, Calif.

Price $105 | Score 92/100

UPC: 850000204535

Set some 330 metres above Sonoma Valley in the Mayacamas Mountain range, Monte Rosso vineyard or Red Mountain has been a Louis Martini family jewel since the late 1930s. The soils of this highly desirable red wine are volcanic red and rich. Using the best blocks, the folks at Gallo have really emphasized the red fruits and chocolate and the surprisingly soft and dusty mountain tannins. This is a perfect match for lamb or beef. You can drink it now or over the next five years.

 

Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Festival+cellar+seller/7844040/story.html#ixzz2KLUu75G5

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.