Savvy Shoppers Seek Out Sparkling Wine for the Holidays

reveals order has finally returned to a category that's been in chaos since millennium madness set in. After 18 months of sales and markdowns in government stores, prices have returned to more normal, dizzying, unaffordable heights.

There are some exceptions -- namely the season's best champagne buy, Lanson Black Label Brut ($39.99; #626990004837) -- but generally you can't get much in the way of true French champagne for less than $50.

So savvy consumers are returning to the sparkling wine aisles of their neighbourhood stores in search of quality and value. It turns out there's a broad choice of bubble to choose from, and something for every taste and just about every budget.

Today's picks cover a hodgepodge of grapes, countries and styles, and while they were tasted and rated against each other, each has a different story to tell.

As I've said before, there's little doubt in my mind that the wine category that's been most improved over the last decade has to be the sparklers, especially those that undergo secondary fermentation in the bottle, a la méthode champenoise -- that is, in the same way true champagne is made. Here's how this group stacks up:

The Veuve du Vernay Brut Blanc de Blancs is a unique, non-vintage blend of Loire Valley chardonnay, chenin blanc, folle blanche and ugni blanc, and for whatever reason, it hits the mark.

Its mineral/toasty nose and pear/mineral/almond flavours finish clean and crisp. The citrus theme allows it to work as a stand-alone apéritif with salty, spicy or even smoked foods, or it would mix well with orange juice at brunch ... party on. (It's also sold in a 1.5-litre format.)

According to Italian wine law, prosecco can be still, crackling or fully sparkling, and this ancient Roman varietal will produce wines that are either sweet or dry.

The non-vintage Domenico di Bertiol Prosecco di Conegliano is made almost entirely from the classic prosecco grape, blended with a touch of verdiso and finished dry. Look for a peaches-and-cream nose with a hint of fresh bread. The textures are light and round, with mineral/citrus/nut flavours in the finish. Add a touch of peach syrup for a great Bellini.

Segura Viudas Brut Reserva is a touchstone for many who enjoy sparkling wine, or in this case, cava. This popular bubble from Spain's Penedès region fills the glass with baked apple, citrus and floral notes, plus just a hint of almonds in the background. It's round, dry and creamy, with apple, pear and almond flavours. It's a solid sparkler for the money, and tailor-made to accompany pre-dinner appetizers.

My home-grown recommendation is available only in private wine shops or at the winery. Gray Monk Odyssey Méthode Classique 2000 is only the second sparkler produced by this Okanagan winery, and only 200 cases were released. The blend is riesling and chardonnay, and the nose is a mix of fresh green apple and citrus rind, with a touch of lees. Green apple, mineral and under-ripe nectarine flavours pervade its creamy finish. It works well as a holiday apéritif, and keep it in mind come summer, to take on a picnic.

Monmousseau's Cuvée J.M. Blanc de Blancs Brut 1997 comes out of Touraine in the cool Loire Valley. Produced as if it were champagne, the Cuvée J.M. is all chenin blanc. The nose has a mature, dusty, green-apple and mineral scent, very European in style. The textures are creamy; the flavours a mix of mineral, grapefruit, green apple and lemon-lime. Sophisticated, dry and lean, it will shine best with finger food before dinner.

An Australian contender completes our picks. The Seaview Brut 1999 has aromas that blend floral, peachy fruit with apple, nutty and mineral scents. Its nutty, bruised apple and peach fruit flavour sags a bit on the mid-palate, and the mousse is a bit foamy. It's solid and workman-like, but a little too soft for its own good.

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If you're looking for last-minute stocking-stuffer, early bird tickets to the big public tasting evenings at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival are now on sale. A one-night ticket to the big room for March 27, 28 or 29 is $49 -- $10 off the regular price. The Playhouse festival turns 25 in 2003, and a number of long-time participants are returning to help celebrate a North American wine milestone.

Chile is the theme country, and more than 30 wineries from South America are expected to lead an international and Canadian lineup of more than 150 producers.

Tickets are available at Ticketmaster outlets, on-line at www.ticketmaster.ca or through charge-by-phone at 604-280-3311. Tickets for other festival events go on sale Jan. 15.

Sun wine columnist Anthony Gismondi is also co-host of The Best of Food and Wine, which airs at noon each Saturday on CFUN 1410 AM.

ENTERTAINING WITH BUBBLES

Wine: Veuve du Vernay Brut Blanc de Blancs NV, France

Price: $11.95

UPC: 3245592970011

Score: 14.5/20

Comments: Creamy, fruity; killer value.

Wine: Domenico di Bertiol Prosecco di Conegliano NV, Veneto, Italy

Price: $17.75

UPC: 8003503000708

Score: 14.5/20

Comments: Peaches, cream and fresh bread.

Wine: Segura Viudas Cava Brut Reserva NV, Penedès, Spain

Price: $13.99

UPC: 33293690009

Score: 15/20

Comments: Great value; creamy, citrus, apple flavours.

Wine: Gray Monk Odyssey Méthode Classique 2000

Price: $24.95

UPC: 778829000401

Score: 15/20

Comments: Sleek mineral, nectarine and citrus flavours.

Wine: Monmousseau Cuvée J.M. Blanc de Blancs Brut 1997, Loire, France

Price: $17.95

UPC: 3160030020410

Score: 14.5/20

Comments: Dry green apple and mineral flavours.

Wine: Seaview Brut 1999, southeastern Australia

Price: $12.95

UPC: 0123450430008

Score: 13.5/20

Comments: Bruised apple and peach flavours.