Sauvignon and the Livin' is Easy

Freed, who heads a large wine consortium that includes Silverado Premium Properties and some 8,000 acres of vineyard properties in California's coastal regions, and who polls attendees every year on a variety of subjects before they get to the show, had plenty to say about the future. As a Canadian with a global view of wine, I found a wealth of information in Freed's survey.

As expected, only 44 per cent of the group anticipated growth in sales this year, a far cry from the previous low, 78 per cent in 2007 and 2003. Only seven per cent of respondents, when asked to describe how business is doing, replied that "they see opportunities." Despite the current pessimism, some 95 per cent expect 2011 will be a good year in the wine business.

Interestingly, last year participants saw direct shipping as having the biggest positive effect on sales, with health also ranking as an important factor. This year, value topped everyone's list and health went to the bottom. It never ceases to amaze me how easily modern wine consumers can change direction, and what's more compelling is how few wineries and distributors ever see it coming.

While the "strength of the ongoing economic recovery" is listed as the key restraint to growth this year, right behind, and more important in my estimation, was competition from imports. I would have ranked this first, when you consider how conservative and old-fashioned much of California's wine industry has become. Current Nielson data says cabernet sauvignon, merlot and chardonnay rule 50 per cent of the market. From corks to varietal wines, California remains stuck in a time warp that is unlikely to help fend off a more dynamic, faster moving import market.

Trading down from Napa to Sonoma or even Paso Robles will save you a few bucks, but moving to Argentina or Chile or the South of France could mean significant savings and, believe it or not, a trade up in quality. Okanagan producers who once thought they were impervious to such blips are finding themselves in a similar bind as prices over $20 begin to soften in a big way.

California producers say the good news is, supermarket and chain volume sales are up, but there is the danger that wine in U.S. supermarkets could follow the British model where the lowest price wins.

Value has become so chic in the States, some retailers are using less expensive products like beer and energy drinks as loss leaders because wine is thought to be too expensive in these troubled times. It is a shocking reminder how quickly the pendulum can swing. I think the same firestorm is heading to Canada and, like it or not, some very difficult pricing decisions must be made by growers, producers and retailers by the harvest. Stay tuned.

This week we look as some tasty sauvignon to welcome the warm weather.

South Africa has a flair for sauvignon and you can see it even in the bargain bottles such as Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc 2008. The grapes are picked across the Cape from a variety of soils. Look for a fresh, green fig character, with bits of grass and honey. The palate is balanced and fresh with a clean tropical fruit finish. It has excellent styling and value for the price.

Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc 2008 is harvested from several cool sites then fermented and aged on its lees in stainless steel tanks. Look for a clean, super-fresh white with bright gooseberry flavours and flecks of peaches, honey and citrus. It finishes clean with a touch of minerality and lime rind. This is crazy quality for the price. Oysters and sushi work for me.

Another solid bottle is Arrogant Frog Ribet White Sauvignon Blanc 2008. Crisp, aromatic mineral, citrus, grassy notes mark the nose with bits of nettle and grass and passion fruit. Pure and fresh with crunchy citrus fruit and a touch of lime rind make it perfect with West Coast Kushi or Kumamotos oysters. An excellent summer value under screwcap.

Wither Hills Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 is blended from 15 individual vineyard sites in Wairau Valley, each harvested at optimum ripeness. Look for standard gooseberry and light capsicum notes with chalky, mineral undertones. Perfectly dry and fresh, the acidity is bright the flavours a mix of gooseberry, passion fruit, lemongrass and granny smith apples. Well made, tasty.

Similarly styled is the Maycas del Limari Sauvignon Blanc Reserva Especial 2007 from Chile's Limari Valley. It has a bright, fresh, restrained fruit style with bits of gooseberry, mineral and citrus throughout the nose. The finish is clean with just enough lees character to keep it interesting. Well made, if a bit pricey for sauvignon.

Finally, a classic: Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007. Surprisingly restrained and showing some elegance, the '07 Marlborough icon mixes tropical fruits and bell pepper/canned jalapeno and kiwi notes on the nose and palate. The entry is fresh and balanced with fruit and acidity. One of the better examples we have seen in B.C. It remains pricey.

Price: $11

UPC: 6001497600616

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Excellent styling and value.

CASILLERO DEL DIABLO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008, REGION DEL VALLE CENTRAL, CHILE

Price: $13

UPC: 078044320301174

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Super-fresh white with bright gooseberry flavours.

ARROGANT FROG RIBET WHITE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008, LANGUEDOC, FRANCE

Price: $14

UPC: 3760040421841

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Perfect with West Coast oysters. Excellent summer value.

WITHER HILLS MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008, MARLBOROUGH, SOUTH ISLAND,

New Zealand

Price: $19

UPC: 9418165002608

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Gooseberry, passionfruit, lemongrass and granny smith apples.

MAYCAS DEL LIMARI SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVA ESPECIAL 2007, LIMARI VALLEY, CHILE

Price: $20

UPC: 007804320299105

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Clean, lean and fresh.

CLOUDY BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007, MARLBOROUGH, SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND

Price: $35

UPC: 9418408030016

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Tropical fruits and bell pepper/canned jalapeno with kiwi notes.