Sassy Sauvignon Blancs

But lately I have detected a small shift, or at least a glimmer of hope, for white wine -- not so much at parties, but on restaurant menus, on wine-by-the-glass lists and at wine tastings.

The recent Playhouse wine festival featured a lively trade seminar entitled the Rebirth of White that focused on crisp, clean, food-worthy wines. It's all very encouraging. The switch to red wine began in earnest in the early '90s when a CBS 60 Minutes program segment declared drinking red wine in moderation could be beneficial to your health. Over the last decade, the rush to red became a stampede.

The good news is constant exposure to reds and the confidence that comes from exploring the likes of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel and pinot noir each day has changed the palate of consumers.

Many have gone from drinking the insipid white wine of the day to enjoying the kick they get from the rich textures, the soft tannins and the long finish that mark the new red wines of the millennium.

But there's more to wine than just power, and my theory is the pendulum, which has swung far too wide into the red zone, is about to rebound. Given the structure of red wine, it makes sense that big, aromatic whites, such as riesling and gewürztraminer, are on track for significant gains with the new wine drinker.

Perhaps the varietal best poised for a comeback among the new savvy wine drinkers is sauvignon blanc. Fresh, light and mostly citrus-flavoured, the best sauvignon is easy to pair with seafood, sushi and shellfish. In fact, with the exception of New Zealand, most versions can double as sophisticated, stand-alone aperitifs.

So if you like great flavour and you don't mind looking hip at the same time, my advice is jump the red wine line and pick up some sauvignon blanc for that next party. Let's face it, sushi and cabernet sauvignon is a pairing disaster, and with the bounty of seafood available in B.C., it makes sense to look at sauvignon blanc.

Now that you are primed for a change, here's some labels to look for. All you need to add is the perfect meal.

During my last trip to the western cape of South Africa, it was clear to me that sauvignon blanc is a variety that can grow there with much success. We have precious little to choose from in B.C., but one of the best values is the Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2005.

Uncomplicated, it offers clean, fresh grapefruit and baked apple flavours with a slightly bitter finish. Good value.

An obvious choice is New Zealand where sauvignon blanc, the signature varietal, has toned down the acidity. There is less, if any, oak and definitely much less of the aggressive grass and green flavours. Prices have moderated here thanks to a weak currency, but the ultra-fresh fruit style lives on unabated.

The Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc 2005 remains classic in style with bright, intense grapefruit rind and canned jalapeno aromas. The flavours mix smoky, grapefruit rind, gooseberry, green apple and mineral. Check out the new screw cap with its sleek new outer capsule -- the threads are hidden on the inside.

Chilean sauvignon blanc easily takes the "most improved" category. Most are round, fresh and fruity and what they lack in complexity, they more than make up for in price and flavour.

Sendero Sauvignon Blanc 2005 is sold only in private wine shops, but like the Obikwa, its lime, grapefruit, guava aromas, clean, fresh style and low price are hard to beat for the budget conscious.

Connoisseurs should flock to the Villard Sauvignon Blanc Expresion Reserve 2005 from Casablanca. I love the chalky, kiwi, grapefruit, grassy, fig flavours with Granny Smith apple and lemon-oil notes on the finish. This is more Loire Valley style, built for food, but well-balanced. Excellent effort and a solid value too.

Casas del Bosque Sauvignon Blanc 2005 makes another Casablanca statement with its ripe, rich, crisp fruit style. Look for grapefruit rind, smoky, melon and bell pepper flavours with a kiwi and lime rind finish. Long with good finesse. Also fine value.

To round out the Chilean story, don't miss the Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc 2004, made with cool southern fruit grow at Curicó. Green melon, grapefruit, mineral aromas preview a fresh palate with roasted bell pepper, grassy, grapefruit rind, mineral flavours. Oysters anyone?

SENDERO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, REGION DEL VALLE CENTRAL, CHILE

Price: $9 to $11 private wine shops only

UPC: 7804320188454

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Clean and fresh and you cannot beat the price.

OBIKWA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, WESTERN CAPE, SOUTH AFRICA

Price: $9.99

UPC: 6001108004031

Score: 85/100

Remarks: Grapefruit rind, grassy, baked apple flavours. Good value.

VILLARD SAUVIGNON BLANC EXPRESION RESERVE 2005, VALLE DE CASABLANCA, CHILE

Price: $17.50

UPC: 7804362000004

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Dry, more Loire style sauvignon built for food but well-balanced.

ERRAZURIZ SAUVIGNON BLANC CURICO 2004, VALLE DEL CURICO, CHILE

Price: $14.40

UPC: 089046777329

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Ripe, fresh palate with roasted bell pepper and grapefruit rind flavours.

VINA CASAS DEL BOSQUE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, VALLE DE CASABLANCA, CHILE

Price: $17.95

UPC: 697412000027

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Smoky, melon and bell pepper flavours with a lime rind finish.

STONELEIGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND

Price: $17.99

UPC: 9414505957010

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Check out the new screw cap. The threads are hidden on the inside.